PC power supply, Please Help

[Mrpotatohead]

Hello,

My PC Power Supply Unit came fitted with a 13A fuse in the power cable. When i just turned my pc on it blown the fuse and now its completely dead. I took the Power Supply Unit out and checked the label and it says:

Input Current 10A – 5A

I did not realise this as i thought the cable that came with the unit would just work straight out the box! My question is, do i use a 10A fuse or 5A?? and would they be safe to plug in a power strip?

Thank you!

 

[Bob Geldoff1234]

If the fuse went with a bang then it's unlikely that a new one will work.
It looks like you will need a new power supply.
Is the computer a laptop or a tower?

 

[LeeH]

13A is the correct size.

As Bob said, if it’s popping fuses throw it away.

 

[dmxtothemax]

No computor would ever need 10A at mains voltage,
It may hit very brief pulses of 10A
probably during switch on.
I think on a long term average 5a would be plenty.

 

[Mrpotatohead]

If the fuse went with a bang then it's unlikely that a new one will work.
It looks like you will need a new power supply.
Is the computer a laptop or a tower?

The computer is a tower, the power supply is completely dead. Every time i switch the switch at the socket it makes a pop sound but this time it sparked and the fuse jumped in my house.

The label says Input Current 10A – 5A

Why was a 13A fitted? when the label says 10A- 5A. what is the correct Fuse AMP that i need?

 

[Mrpotatohead]

13A is the correct size.

As Bob said, if it’s popping fuses throw it away.

Why is 13A correct???

 

[LeeH]

Why is 13A correct???

1. It came with a 13A from the manufacturer.
2. 3A is too small
3. The code of practice for testing and inspecting portable appliances only recognises 3A and 13A.

 

[Mrpotatohead]

1. It came with a 13A from the manufacturer.
2. 3A is too small
3. The code of practice for testing and inspecting portable appliances only recognises 3A and 13A.

So if the 13A is correct what caused it to blow? This is the second time it has happened, the current power supply unit is a replacement.

 

[Pete E]

Every time i switch the switch at the socket it makes a pop sound but this time it sparked and the fuse jumped in my house.

So if the 13A is correct what caused it to blow? This is the second time it has happened, the current power supply unit is a replacement.

Is the power supply the correct one for the PC?

Are you plugging the power lead direct into the socket in the wall, or via any extension leads?

I am not a spark, but I would think the PC might be faulty or failing that, possibly a fault in the socket where the power lead is plugged into....

If you are unsure about these things, you will either need to get the PC checked or call a spark to verify the eclectics are ok...

 

[Deleted member 105166]

So if the 13A is correct what caused it to blow? This is the second time it has happened, the current power supply unit is a replacement.

Did you experience the same with the original PSU, i.e. blowing fuses?
Or is this unique to the replacement?

In a fault condition, an appliance may attempt to draw an unlimited amount of current, which is why there are protective devices in place. The first protective device is the fuse in the plugtop, which is what has blown in this case, as it should. Upstream from that you'll have a miniature circuit breaker, or fuse of some sort (which would have blown if the fused plugtop were not there). My point being, the size of the fuse is not the cause of the problem.

 

[Pete E]

Just another thought, but don't tower PC usually have a built in PSU meaning they just use a power lead to connect to the mains?

In fact I don't recall the last time I saw a tower PC with a separate PSU...

 

[Martyn Fletcher]

If your PC is drawing enough current to blow a 13A fuse then I would suggest your PSU is faulty and you need to get it checked/changed.
Even an 850 Watt PSU at 240V will draw less than 4A so the 13A fuse is overkill from the outset and risked frying something.
Due to the use of the interchangeable "Kettle leads" many PC owners and incompetent repairers ended up using a 13A kettle lead to replace the 5A power lead supplied by manufacturers.
Edit: Internally your PC may draw higher currents through the various rails as it is running at lower voltages, but this will not blow a fuse in your power lead.

 

[LeeH]

So if the 13A is correct what caused it to blow? This is the second time it has happened, the current power supply unit is a replacement.

Maybe it’s just faulty, incorrect size.

 

[Deleted member 105166]

Just another thought, but don't tower PC usually have a built in PSU meaning they just use a power lead to connect to the mains?

In fact I don't recall the last time I saw a tower PC with a separate PSU...

The OP hasn't said it is a "separate" PSU, in the first post he said he took it out to check...

 

[Pete E]

The OP hasn't said it is a "separate" PSU, in the first post he said he took it out to check...

I'm with you now ..it was just the way I was reading it...

 

[Deleted member 105166]

Even an 850 Watt PSU at 240V will draw less than 4A so the 13A fuse is overkill from the outset and risked frying something.
Due to the use of the interchangeable "Kettle leads" many PC owners and incompetent repairers ended up using a 13A kettle lead to replace the 5A power lead supplied by manufacturers.

The lead supplied will typically be rated to 10A and fitted with a non-rewirable (moulded) plugtop and 13A fuse, in accordance with ISITEE 15.12

There is a difference between "kettle leads" which are slotted and fitted with IEC60320 C15 connectors (rated to 120deg/C), and computer leads, which use the C13 connector (rated to 70deg/C) Both types current rating is 10A.

 

[LeeH]

If your PC is drawing enough current to blow a 13A fuse then I would suggest your PSU is faulty and you need to get it checked/changed.
Even an 850 Watt PSU at 240V will draw less than 4A so the 13A fuse is overkill from the outset and risked frying something.
Due to the use of the interchangeable "Kettle leads" many PC owners and incompetent repairers ended up using a 13A kettle lead to replace the 5A power lead supplied by manufacturers.
Edit: Internally your PC may draw higher currents through the various rails as it is running at lower voltages, but this will not blow a fuse in your power lead.

How does the fuse in the plug top protect the appliance via a PSU?

 

[LeeH]

Ok so this is an internal PSU?

 

[Pete E]

The lead supplied will typically be rated to 10A and fitted with a non-rewirable (moulded) plugtop and 13A fuse, in accordance with ISITEE 15.12

There is a difference between "kettle leads" which are slotted and fitted with IEC60320 C15 connectors (rated to 120deg/C), and computer leads, which use the C13 connector (rated to 70deg/C) Both types current rating is 10A.

Don't most onboard PSU's also have their own fuses as well?

 

[telectrix]

How does the fuse in the plug top protect the appliance via a PSU?

it doesn't. the plug fuse is there to protect the cable from overload/short circuit.

 

[Link65]

Don't most onboard PSU's also have their own fuses as well?

Yep, most of them are not considered user replaceable and are soldered onto the PCB of the PSU.

OP needs to replace the PSU by the sounds of it.. plus you really wouldn't want to keep trying to replace fuses and trying it, if faulty it could damage the rest of the system if it hasn't already done so.

 

[Spoon]

OP needs to replace the PSU by the sounds of it..

This is the second time it has happened, the current power supply unit is a replacement

Sounds like he already has replaced PSU.

 

[Mrpotatohead]

I have never replaced the fuse or cable, the cable came with the PSU and it's fitted with a 13A fuse. I plug this into a surge protected power strip which makes a pop when I flick the switch. The label on the power supply says

Input Current 10A – 5A

Does that mean the 13A fuse is causing the problem? I don't think it's a faulty PSU as this is the second time, this PSU is a brand new replacement

 

[LeeH]

it doesn't. the plug fuse is there to protect the cable from overload/short circuit.

That was my point tel. A rhetorical question to the chap who disagreed with my post.

 

[Link65]

Sounds like he already has replaced PSU.

I think I misread that, thanks.

I'd change the lead, sounds like it could be a break in an old cable causing the fuse to operate.

13A is normal for a PC plug top fuse, some PC's can pull over 1500W which sits it between 3A and 13A fuse types.

As 3A would be too low, 13A is used.

 

[Deleted member 105166]

I plug this into a surge protected power strip which makes a pop when I flick the switch.

What happens if you plug it directly into a wall socket?

 

[telectrix]

What happens if you plug it directly into a wall socket?

it goes bang?

 

[Mrpotatohead]

I think I misread that, thanks.

I'd change the lead, sounds like it could be a break in an old cable causing the fuse to operate.

13A is normal for a PC plug top fuse, some PC's can pull over 1500W which sits it between 3A and 13A fuse types.

As 3A would be too low, 13A is used.

Can a 5A or 10A fused be used? I don't think it's the cable getting old as this was replaced when the PSU got replaced. Could it be my surge protected power strip? Is it OK to plug a 13A plug into a power strip? When I flick the switch on the power strip, nothing else is turned on as I always turn my PC on first then my monitor

 

[Mrpotatohead]

it goes bang?

Never tried as my wall socket is hard to get to so I use a power strip

 

[telectrix]

possible surge problem. try plugging in with PC and monitor off. then switch pc on, then monitor, so that the plug fuse is not seeing the full inrush current of both at same time.

 

[Spoon]

Never tried as my wall socket is hard to get to so I use a power strip

Try a different power strip.

 

[telectrix]

power strip? like this?

 

[Deleted member 105166]

Never tried as my wall socket is hard to get to so I use a power strip

We're trying to help you by process of elimination. Take the "power strip" out of the equation and see what happens. Also forget about 5A and 10A fuses, this is a red herring (and outside of the scope of ISITEE, which only recognises 3A and 13A fuses). Plug it into any other 13A wall socket!

 

[Link65]

Can a 5A or 10A fused be used? I don't think it's the cable getting old as this was replaced when the PSU got replaced. Could it be my surge protected power strip? Is it OK to plug a 13A plug into a power strip? When I flick the switch on the power strip, nothing else is turned on as I always turn my PC on first then my monitor

The fuse size wont cause the issue you're having, be it 5, 10 or 13Amp you'll get the same result with all of them.

Something is causing the fuse to blow, if it's blowing instantly then its pulling somewhere around 40-60Amps or more of fault current at a rough guess, so to me (and I'm by no means an expert, so take this as you will) it sounds like you have a short somewhere.

 

[Deleted member 105166]

power strip? like this?

Where's the unsee button?

 

[Spoon]

Where's the unsee button?

I don't see a problem.. I'd have a doughnut eating comp with her.

 

[Mrpotatohead]

We're trying to help you by process of elimination. Take the "power strip" out of the equation and see what happens. Also forget about 5A and 10A fuses, this is a red herring (and outside of the scope of ISITEE, which only recognises 3A and 13A fuses). Plug it into any other 13A wall socket!

i dont have a PSU atm as its completely dead, i'll try tomorrow when i get a replacement.

 

[LeeH]

Can a 5A or 10A fused be used? I don't think it's the cable getting old as this was replaced when the PSU got replaced. Could it be my surge protected power strip? Is it OK to plug a 13A plug into a power strip? When I flick the switch on the power strip, nothing else is turned on as I always turn my PC on first then my monitor

Use whatever you like but a 13A is fine. You seem to be getting hung up on fuse sizes.

Only 2 sizes are needed. 3 and 13.

If a 13 is popping even after changing the cord it’s time for a new one of whatever is on the end of it. PC, PSU or a banana bending machine.

 

[Pete E]

i dont have a PSU atm as its completely dead, i'll try tomorrow when i get a replacement.

If its possible to safely power up the PSU before you put it in the computer , I would do that at the very least...If this one then pops, you know the problem is further back, possibly in the extension lead..

If its fine out of the PC, fit it back in and try again...

Expensive way to fault things though!

 

[Spoon]

....banana bending machine

I thought they just use kids for that....

 

[Lucien Nunes]

10-5A refers to the absolute maximum the PSU can consume at 120V to 230V respectively, i.e. 5A at 230V. It has nothing to do with the plug fuse size. Any of 5A, 10A, 13A fuses should be OK - the PSU has internal protection against overload - but the inrush on large PSUs can fatigue a 5A fuse after time. They are designed to be protected at 16A in Europe where protection is in the DB not in the plug fuse.

If a desktop computer PSU blows a 13A fuse it is faulty, end of. A typical desktop draws 1-2A on 230V maybe even less than 1A. Only if you have multiple super duper graphics cards all mining crypto would you need 1500W as mentioned above.

 

[static zap]

power strip? like this?

Power strip in Pink ..original..!

Classic causes for big bang ...a) Include Flicking that little 120/240 selector switch on older " Models"!
..b) They often die in a spectacular bang ,if cheap (large Black Label) No internal fuse !

( My Unsee is not working today)

Middle size 5A would be a DIY Home owner answer !
(under 10A stated on Euro plug)
99% chance , need a new power-supply/ case with free one !
-Unless cable has been damaged /trapped ...-Throw them both !

 

[stevels4]

As above, most decent ATX Power supply units are protected by an internal T5A or T6.3A fuse but there are exceptions with some unbranded models!
The voltage selection switch if in the 110/120V position usually results in a loud bang followed by plumes of white acrid smoke as the smoothing capacitors rated at 200VDC are suddenly provided with 400VDC then overheat and vent.
There was also a problem with some supplied mains leads a while ago where both the outer insulation and conductor insulation cracked when flexed and also faulty molded plugs.
Buy a decent branded ATX PSU and try that.

 

[Ned Gibbons]

While you're swapping out the PSU have a good look at the mother board especially the capacitors. If any leaking or have swelled then it's new mother board time.

 

[Deleted member 26818]

If the 13A fuse is blowing, changing to a 5A or 3A will not help, they will just blow.
I am wondering whether you have installed any new cards in the pc, especially graphic cards?
If that is not the case, then you may have a siezed hard drive.

 

[Strima]

The PSU is dead, long live the PSU, fit another one.

Was this a new or old PSU? If a new one then it could well have been faulty from the manufacturer.

 

[Link65]

I'd be -very- surprised if an internal component beyond the PSU was causing a 13A fuse to fail. Even a seized drive or faulty caps on a motherboard shouldn't cause a fuse of that size to blow. If you've been picking up new PSU's one after another I'm guessing you're buying cheap ones, don't.

Change the lead, change the PSU, plug directly into a wall socket and then let us know what happens.

if that still takes the 13A fuse then I'd be inclined to check you don't have something going on with the socket, check for reverse polarity, and earthing problems, volts between neutral and earth etc.

If you are unable to do that, maybe it's best to call an electrician/PC repair guy at this point instead of throwing more money at PSU's.

 

[Link65]

The PSU is dead, long live the PSU, fit another one.

Was this a new or old PSU? If a new one then it could well have been faulty from the manufacturer.

He said in earlier posts that this is his second new PSU

 

[Strima]

He said in earlier posts that this is his second new PSU

Cheap crap then.

 

[Deleted member 26818]

It doesn’t necessarily have to be cheap crap, it could simply be under rated.