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Just started on a complete refurbishment / extension on a 3 bedroom property which is having a complete rewire.

I'm not keen on Dual RCD boards, nor trying to have as few circuits as possible ....

So when it comes to the socket circuits I was thinking of:

Radial 20A for hall, lounge and dining room
Ring 32A for kitchen
Radial 20A for upstairs

Anyone like to comment?


PS the plumber was asking me today why I was installing 35 mm boxes - he seemed to think 25 were always best!
 
Just started on a complete refurbishment / extension on a 3 bedroom property which is having a complete rewire.

I'm not keen on Dual RCD boards, nor trying to have as few circuits as possible ....

So when it comes to the socket circuits I was thinking of:

Radial 20A for hall, lounge and dining room
Ring 32A for kitchen
Radial 20A for upstairs

Anyone like to comment?


PS the plumber was asking me today why I was installing 35 mm boxes - he seemed to think 25 were always best!
If you don't like dual RCD boards do you intend using RCBOs? I would imagine it's your choice what size back boxes you use, why is the Plumber sticking his oar in? sometimes the deeper the back box the better. Maybe in questioning your choice of back boxes, he was gleaning information from you, ask him why he is using the size of pipe he has chosen, just for a laugh.
 
Why not a 32 amp radial for the kitchen using 4mm cable then you won’t have any rings?
Depends as well if your using 2.5mm for a 20amp radial that you don’t exceed the maximum zs for the mcb which will be 2.19 ohms for a type B that is 1.75 ohms with rule of thumb and if it’s larger that the recommendations in appendix 15 you may have volt drop issues.
Perhaps 4mm radials for all 3 if you don’t want to install ring finals on 32 amp mcbs reference method permitting.

Ps I only ever use 35mm with things like fused spurs or if I’m fitting flat plate sockets.
It’s true that you’ll probably have more flexibility with 35mm but they you go.
Try asking my gaffer to start fitting bigger than 25mm boxes for sockets on new builds I know what the answer is............
 
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IMO, if you are rewiring RFC always, as for the split board, up to you if the client will spend the money RCBO's, I like that option anyway. 35mm boxes more bashing so what.
 
I have a very vague memory of using 25 mm boxes
The memory seems to coincide with some numpty coming up with the idea of making flat plate accessories

The scary part is that there were customers who actually liked the monstrosities,it made me realise they were here to stay and the days of the good old 25mm box were history:)
I believe it was satin himself
 
well yeah unless you want the whole board tripping in the event of a neutral-earth fault...RCBO trips, as it's solid neutral the neutral isnt disconnected so takes out the upfront time delayed RCD.

My memory is a bit hazy, but I recall the 18th draft mentioning something about this subject? Guess division of installation would still have to be considered.
 
Tried my fist SBS DP rcbo board this month, and am quite pleased with it. Mine was on a TT system, and I used a time delayed 100mA RCD as the main switch. The install was made easier and looked neat without all the wandering tails and functional earth leads from the rcbo's. Good price and quick delivery.
 
What’s the thinking behind this?

Cheers

In a dual RCCB board you have the brown and blue link leads between the main switch and the RCCB's and neutral bars IF any of these were to come adrift or melt or be nibbled, and come into contact with the metal, then the only protective device is the service head fuse, and on TT you can be pretty sure you wont have a low enough Zs to allow enough current to flow to blow it so it will just sit there live all day long. in this instance the 100mA type s gives those internal link wires fault protection, and also maintains discrimination from your 30mA RCCB's.

With a full RCBO board there are none of these internal links so no need for upfront protection, and as somebody mentioned if you use single pole RCBO's and DO fit an upfront 100mA type S RCCB, you havn't got discrimination as the neutral will be left in circuit if the RCBO trips which could trip the 100mA.

In both instances a gland should be used on the incoming tails.
 
In a dual RCCB board you have the brown and blue link leads between the main switch and the RCCB's and neutral bars IF any of these were to come adrift or melt or be nibbled, and come into contact with the metal, then the only protective device is the service head fuse, and on TT you can be pretty sure you wont have a low enough Zs to allow enough current to flow to blow it so it will just sit there live all day long. in this instance the 100mA type s gives those internal link wires fault protection, and also maintains discrimination from your 30mA RCCB's.

With a full RCBO board there are none of these internal links so no need for upfront protection, and as somebody mentioned if you use single pole RCBO's and DO fit an upfront 100mA type S RCCB, you havn't got discrimination as the neutral will be left in circuit if the RCBO trips which could trip the 100mA.

In both instances a gland should be used on the incoming tails.

Theres still a tail from main switch to N bar, i will still fit rcd td upfront on TT
 
Has anyone ever seen a meter tail or internal link actually become detached and cause a short ? Not only would it have to come out of the terminal/cage clamp it would also have to move considerably. About as much chance of me winning the lottery. :rolleyes:
 
I have avoided the really cheap RCBOs due to failures in the past incl control gear, I prefer dual RCD with the odd RCBO to keep costs down. I know they are all made to the same BS standard but are all vans made the same !!:(
 
Just started on a complete refurbishment / extension on a 3 bedroom property which is having a complete rewire.

I'm not keen on Dual RCD boards, nor trying to have as few circuits as possible ....

So when it comes to the socket circuits I was thinking of:

Radial 20A for hall, lounge and dining room
Ring 32A for kitchen
Radial 20A for upstairs

Anyone like to comment?


PS the plumber was asking me today why I was installing 35 mm boxes - he seemed to think 25 were always best!
 
Just started on a complete refurbishment / extension on a 3 bedroom property which is having a complete rewire.

I'm not keen on Dual RCD boards, nor trying to have as few circuits as possible ....

So when it comes to the socket circuits I was thinking of:

Radial 20A for hall, lounge and dining room
Ring 32A for kitchen
Radial 20A for upstairs

Anyone like to comment?


PS the plumber was asking me today why I was installing 35 mm boxes - he seemed to think 25 were always best!
Ring up, ring down and ring the kitchen. The cost of a return cable is not worth the mention. As for what back box size, fit the easiest for the job on the day. If the customer decides to have something else fitted later on, which won't fit the box, then you charge according.
 

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