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Neat job, I have a love/hate relationship with cage clamp terminals, we use them a lot in the panels at work. Sometimes they work perfectly, other times can be a real pig to release/insert cables.
 
Neat job, I have a love/hate relationship with cage clamp terminals, we use them a lot in the panels at work. Sometimes they work perfectly, other times can be a real pig to release/insert cables.

Yes, I'd not used these ones before. I used one of the proper tools (just a flat blade screwdriver, really) to open up the clamps. This was necessary for all the old stranded cable and easier for the modern single strand cable. There's definitely a knack to it, getting easier as you get used to exactly how hard to push and which way to lever to open the clamps.

I tried removing the cable from one or two and found it very difficult, so maybe I need more practice.
 
i can see one problem with this...................

Actually, there was one thing that concerned me; running cable behind the DNO's meter backboard. I've seen it done loads of times, but there's a risk of damage to the cables from over-long woodscrews fixing the meter, etc to the board. Anyone come across a real problem with this?
 
A very neat job, one thing that concerned me a bit is the din rail earthed? in the junction box? and why not use a bigger fuse board? You should be allowing for future expansion of the installation, i'm certain in the regs it states a maxium of 70% should be used on a new installation. other than this a really neat job.
 
Control panel

This is a panel for grow lights in a greenhouse. Designed and built by us, I shall post some pics of the install as it progresses.
 

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Only thing I didn't like was socket's labelled north and south, not seen it done before but could make things potentially confusing for someone with no sense of where north is (ME!!!)

And in regards to meter tail's, what's the problem with keeping both inner and outer sheath the same length? I have always done it like that, I wrap a bit of blue or brown tape around the live or neutral
 
A very neat job, one thing that concerned me a bit is the din rail earthed? in the junction box? and why not use a bigger fuse board? You should be allowing for future expansion of the installation, i'm certain in the regs it states a maxium of 70% should be used on a new installation. other than this a really neat job.

Earthed DIN rail, every manufacturer who use metal rails in their insulated CUs must be at fault too then.
 
Refrigeration install

Little install I did in London a few weeks ago.
 

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Those cable ties don't seem to be flush cut... I get a slap for things like that... :lol:
 
Those cable ties don't seem to be flush cut... I get a slap for things like that... :lol:

the ty'ers arnt equal spacings,that might seem a bit ocd,but i cant help it..and the isolator is around a mil and a half out to the left....:wink5: ive checked the cooker for the 30th time i did switch it off..:dizzy2:
 
A very neat job, one thing that concerned me a bit is the din rail earthed? in the junction box? and why not use a bigger fuse board? You should be allowing for future expansion of the installation, i'm certain in the regs it states a maxium of 70% should be used on a new installation. other than this a really neat job.

Thanks. The number of ways was determined by the customer, my Dad, who's a retired electrical engineer and I wasn't going to persuade him otherwise! They've done all the additions they want in that house (small extension) and are happy with one spare only. The spare way was to be blanked, but the supplier of the RCBOs sent a 30A instead of the 20A, so he decided to leave it in there rather than return it. The most likely use for the spare way would be for charging an electric car, but they've no specific plans.

As far as the unearthed DIN rail goes, the point's been answered. If it's OK for the CU manufacturers, it's OK by me. After all, it's only accessible with the cover removed.
 
Only thing I didn't like was socket's labelled north and south, not seen it done before but could make things potentially confusing for someone with no sense of where north is (ME!!!)

And in regards to meter tail's, what's the problem with keeping both inner and outer sheath the same length? I have always done it like that, I wrap a bit of blue or brown tape around the live or neutral

Yes, we had some discussion about the labelling. Problem is that you'd never get a complete description of the points served on a small label (eg, "kitchen, plus two sockets out of three in dining room, plus one in hallway, plus two out of three in main bedroom"). Using left and right, you'd have to say whether looking AT front of house or looking OUT of front of house, so not definitive either. It was the best we could come up with. We're going to add a floorplan with the points marked with circuit numbers.

Unless it needs to stay on (exposed cable), I always cut back the outer sheath of tails to reveal the insulation colour. Although not likely in the short term, tape can eventually get old and fall off. Ideally I'd use tails with brown or blue sheathing, like the meter fitter has used.
 
I've used them a few times before but tend to end up with to much braiding stuck in my finger ends !!

The factory was such a mess as well the rest of the installations was unreal.
 
i can see one problem with this...................


no seals on the cover screws for the tails isolator?
(in my opinion, it looked like a great job and wish my every day work looked like that, but alas clients and prices for the works do not give me the time to be some damn neat)
 
whats wrong with that...! ??? not like they going to be moved any time soon... and it looks better than having a unsightly hole chopped out back of the unit!
 
no seals on the cover screws for the tails isolator?
(in my opinion, it looked like a great job and wish my every day work looked like that, but alas clients and prices for the works do not give me the time to be some damn neat)

It's the customer's isolator, not the DNO/suppliers, so no reason for seals. Despite the fact that I put it on the DNO's backboard, which was commented on but accepted as reasonable by the meter fitter.

Yes, it's nice to do a job for someone who appreciates a good quality job and is prepared to pay for it. Not all my jobs are as tidy! (But never shoddy, I hasten to add.) :)
 
Go on then, what have you done with the sockets? Looks like a triumph of style over substance to me.

Is the metal can thing hung from the ceiling a recirculating cooker hood?

It's a horrible kitchen :uhoh2: 60k doesn't buy taste unfortunately. The sockets all 2 of them are at the ends of the fitted units so look from either end and you see them not my idea but hey I'm not the "designer" so what would I know lol. The kitchen dust bin suspended from the ceiling is indeed the extractor :sick:
 
yes they are bang level..... had the laser running accross it every step of the way...!!

unfortunately the heights and positions were dictated to me by client... including the product spec "crabtree"
 
i know you lot will look down your noses and slag this off but i have a big fear off electricity in the sense of what you do and with good reason , so its not much to you .but its like a claustrophobe conquering there fear by been burried a live or someone scared of hight jumping out of a plane but to me this is a biggy


oo and i passed the dreaded part p - Building reg
 

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Yes but even a Plumber could pass Part P...Oh....:stooge_moe:
Sorry, nice bit of work there, well done.
Just interested in why it is wired partly in singles and partly T&E?


Not a plumber I have proper well earnt qualifications thank you very much

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Yes but even a Plumber could pass Part P...Oh....:stooge_moe:
Sorry, nice bit of work there, well done.
Just interested in why it is wired partly in singles and partly T&E?


Not a plumber I have proper well earnt qualifications thank you very much
 
Probably wouldnt have used the deep sided stuff :) and used some stand off brackets or strut to make cable tieing easier. Nice and neat though :)
 
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