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Hi all, looking for some advice on the following please: -

TN-S System, 8 way 60Amp BS3036 CU (no rcd)

Power & lighting circuits to attached garage have been spurred directly from the back of the kitchen cooker CU, there are various additional socket outlets throughout the house which are extensions from the original sockets, by way of three core flex and 13 amp fused plug (plugged into the original):confused: one extension was traced back to the cooker CU by way of a plug adapter (the same cooker unit that is feeding the garage).

I was originaly asked to quote to install a temporary plug in supply to a new log cabin in the garden, in the customers own words can I now quote for: -

Install Hook up to Log Cabin

Up-rate garage to IEE

Upgrade house Consumer Unit

Log cabin is approx 12 metres from the house and is to have 4 x socket outlets, 2 x internal light fittings, 1 x external bulkhead light and I am ensured no form of electrical heating will be used.

Also if the up-rating of the garage and House CU is deemed too expensive only the hook up to the cabin will be required.

Where do I start with a quote like this bearing in mind I have to comply with BS 7671 and not upset the customer too much:)
 
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A

acat

Unless a total rewire of property I wont touch it first question I would ask is what other horrors lay undiscovered by you waiting to catch you out failing that.

Before any work is carried out you need to work out maximum demand of property including proposed work as I would think main fuse and possibly tails will need upgrading. He may not want heating in cabin now but what about wintertime or change of ownership

If you work on any of the circuits mentioned you take responsibility for it as the last person??????

Chris
 
K

kung

Agree with the other guys here as its your name on the cert and not only your membership your butt in court if anything goes wrong so quote job and some you win some you lose if he dont like it the nice man at B & Q will tell him how to rewire it and upgrade it without any compliance with bs7671 or some guy down the pub. You could offer it in two visits one to upgrade the house install and then to install the cabin run that way cutting down the cost in one hit this i find sometimes works and saves the job.
Regards
Kung.
 
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  • #5
Thanks a lot guys - I think I will try the two part quote and break it to him gently. Supposing he just wants a supply to the cabin what would be the best solution?
 
M

Mac

If he just wants a supply to the cabin and his house is shot to pieces and needs upgraded to 17th,i would walk away mate.I know work is thin on the table at the moment, but it's you who will end up in court if there are serious consequences.Would you sign a job off like that:eek:Just tell him what work needs doing to sort it and if he don't want to pay then tell him to get someone else in but that he will be told the same answer as you have given him
 
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  • #7
Good point mate - I hate turning down work but sometimes I guess like you say you have to know when to walk away.
 
G

Guest123

Maybe suggest to him a periodic beforehand in order to get a handle on just what is needed to be done to the existing before adding any extra loding to the installation.

Just a thought.:)
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #9
Most of my work is subcontract to another company so don't really get involved in the pricing of jobs as I am usually on a day rate. What is the going hourly rate for domestic electrical work and what would be a sensible price for replacing a CU? - Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks
 
A

acat

Before you quote any job get the actual price of the items needed if you estimate £300.00 and actual price works out £390.00 you have just lost £90.00 profit.

As for hourly rate depends on your area but a minimum of £20 per hour is what you are looking at a lot of people on this forum woundnt get out of bed for that others would not even want to be woken up:)



Chris
 
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