and use a decent iron and solder sucker to get the old ones out. be careful not to damage the copper track. basically, any 1500mfd electrolytic with the same or slightly higher volt rating will do. the lead spacing means that it will fit straight in without bending the leads.
 
my electronic knowledge is a bit out of date, ever since them new -fangled transistor thingies replaced the good old thermionic valve. LOL. not done much lately.

I remember when the pinnacle of miniaturization was the Mullard OC70 transistor - you could fit 12 of them into a sewing thimble.
 
and use a decent iron and solder sucker to get the old ones out. be careful not to damage the copper track. basically, any 1500mfd electrolytic with the same or slightly higher volt rating will do. the lead spacing means that it will fit straight in without bending the leads.

They're all electrolytic.

Thank you for the help, everyone! :) We really appreciate it!
 
but if this board is 7 yeqars old and caps have blown, is it worth the effort? what else is liable to be goosed due to old age?
 
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KZJ are getting a bad rep on the badcaps forum, failing in two years from heat apparently. Cannot get a reference check from digi-key yet using what you have provided, will have another look.
 
but if this board is 7 yeqars old and caps have blown, is it worth the effort? what else is liable to be goosed due to old age?
This is a PCI-E-based NVIDIA GeForce 6600 video card from 2004.

The cheapest replacement PCI-E video card from Ebuyer is £25, so I thought that we may as well try and fix this one for much cheaper. If it doesn't work, we'll get the replacement card :)

My uncle only uses the system for basic Web browsing.
 
You need to measure the distance between the leads on the old capacitor, this is the 'lead pitch' referred to in the options you stated. Obviously pick one with the same pitch, also leave a small air gap below your new capacitor when you solder it onto the board, a milimeter or 2 will suffice, it helps with cooling and extends the lifespan of the component.
 
Ohhhhh ............ that was below the belt !! ;)

got hairs there as well. mate. wouldn't have known it back in july when they cut into the femoralm arteries. goolies like a gorilla. black as coal.
 
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OK, found the cap in an old datasheet, looks like the manufacturer has dropped the product. Cap was specially developed for PC boards and the like.
Supplier is United Chemi-com, you could contact them for their direct replacement or take a punt with the panasonic FM one i listed at Farnell.
 
Mustard,

The usual reason for an electrolytic capacitor bursting like this is because it has been running quite hot. The heat is not generated by the capacitor itself, just the ambient temperature around it.

For that reason I would suggest you replace them with higher temperature versions, that are designed to live longer and happier lives in higher ambient temperatures. So the 105C rated one:

Buy Aluminium Capacitors Al Electrolytic Cap 105C 6.3V 1500uF Panasonic EEUFM0J152 online from RS for next day delivery.

would be my recommendation - a few pence more expensive, but should last longer.

Also - if there's any other electrolytic caps on the board consider replacing those as well - for a few quid it's worth doing a bombing raid on the all the caps, and the board will be as good as new.
 
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2 votes for panasonic fm :biggrin5:
 
There were shed-loads of caps that failed a number of years ago - some bods stole the formula for the electrolyte from the company they worked for and set up their own. But there were errors in the formula, so they failed prematurely. Google will probably find all the details.

As already mentioned, you need a hot iron as these caps are usually connected to the copper power and ground planes, so they suck a lot of heat.
 
This is common fault of g force cards, replace 5mm pitch cap with higher voltage but same 5mm pitch spacing, suggest 10-12v. The should only be one cap gone, and the top of it should have raised up or split maked on board c27 i think
 
once the cap/s are blown there may be damage to other components
i thought i,d just throw that into the thread
 

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Trying to replace capacitor - which one do I choose?
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