Help with Wylex board

[I Trippet]

Doing a CU change yesterday, having purchased an 8 way Wylex board and 6 Wylex miniature RCBOs recently, and was about to fix the board until sods law, it's a stud wall and the screw holes don't align with the vertical battens. Decided the easiest thing to do would be get an 11 way. As I was working a bit far from my usual wholesalers I got one from a local CEF, took it back and fixed to wall no problem. As soon as went I went to clip the first RCBO in....... ----, realised it was a half din rail with nothing for the breaker to clip onto at the bottom. Rushed back to CEF and the guy who to be fair was very helpful looked into it and said it was a different model of breaker I needed, but guess what..... they don't have any!! Advised me to try other wholesalers in the area, but none could help and they were all perplexed as the number for the RCBO I apparently need is the old type and the board I bought was brand new!

I was able to fit the breakers for the time being by but they are only secured at the base by being screwed to the busbar and I cannot leave it like that. I'm being searching Wylex's range of products online all morning but I'm still non the wiser. Have Wylex in their infinite wisdom gone back to half DIN rail assemblies, without updating their range of breakers, or am I missing something. Much appreciated if anyone can help me.

 

[buzzlightyear]

it's a stud wall and the screw holes don't align with the vertical battens.

Easyfix Self-Drill Plasterboard Fixings Metal 32mm 100 Pack - https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-self-drill-plasterboard-fixings-metal-32mm-100-pack/2422h.

 

[buzzlightyear]

having purchased an 8 way Wylex board and 6 Wylex miniature RCBOs

and which range was this .

 

[snowhead]

With the full din rail the busbar is floating.
With the half din rail the busbar is secured to the backplate.

 

[Vortigern]

Could you put some din bar in the CU?

 

[HappyHippyDad]

I would have used plaster board rawl plugs, the metal screw in ones. Man, you've gone to a lot of trouble for the sake of a rawl plug ?
Or possibly screw a piece of ply on to the wall into the joists, it would only be a little bigger than your original board.

 

[I Trippet]

The original board I'd got was an NM606FLEXS and the breakers are NHXS1B. Board I got was NM1106L.

 

[I Trippet]

I would have used plaster board rawl plugs, the metal screw in ones. Man, you've gone to a lot of trouble for the sake of a rawl plug ?
Or possibly screw a piece of ply on to the wall into the joists, it would only be a little bigger than your original board.

Normally I would but they would have been too close to the hole for the cables

 

[UNG]

That's why I always have a piece of 12 or 18mm ply or OSB and / or some 50 x 25 batten handy when I am changing a CU on a plasterboard wall, not sure I would be using plasterboard fixings to fix a CU

 

[Zerax]

I wouldn't use only plasterboard spirals to fix a CU... but I would use them to secure a piece of board to the wall with some grip fill behind it... essentially the grip fill is bonding the board to the wall and the spirals are just holding it up until it's gone off.

Plywood is a very handy thing to keep in the van... I use it in preference to softwood for making little noggins to screw plasterboard to for hole covering.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Most DIN rails are removable, could you not just change the new CU rail for a compatible one?

 

[multimick]

Try drilling new holes .you don't have to use theirs

 

[Mike Johnson]

Try drilling new holes .you don't have to use theirs

Is that within the manufactures guide lines for using their enclosure. ?

 

[multimick]

No difference drilling extra holes in back of enclosure to knocking out 20 mm holes in bottom and putting grommets in

 

[MJPD29]

I never ever use Wylex. Far too many different breakers for different boards. Why can companies like hager maintain the same design or at least design them to fit previous boards also? Money making scheme from wylex

 

[multimick]

Always fit live boards now mini rcbo no earth never had a bad one. spd built in if you want it

 

[Mike Johnson]

No difference drilling extra holes in back of enclosure to knocking out 20 mm holes in bottom and putting grommets in

Knocking out holes that the manufacture built into the design is one thing drilling new holes into the manufacturers enclosure is a completely different thing, but don't get me wrong, my original comment was said with my tongue firmly in my cheek,

 

[Timbo]

Knocking out holes that the manufacture built into the design is one thing drilling new holes into the manufacturers enclosure is a completely different thing, but don't get me wrong, my original comment was said with my tongue firmly in my cheek,

So what do you do for glands or conduits when knockouts are wrong size/place?

 

[Mike Johnson]

Isn't that the same as cutting a board front cover to fit a different MCB or RCD to the manufacturers recommended, obviously the glands are not to the manufactures original design or they would fit without modification.

 

[Timbo]

Or when you have a board with no knockouts.
Oh, sorry customer, I've just fitted your new board, but I can't cut any holes in it for the cables to enter!
Get real, Mike.

 

[multimick]

Ha ha been away for a while but some things I don't miss

 

[Mike Johnson]

And the holes you have cut have compromised the board the manufacturer tested and fire rated, on the one hand others have suggested that you can not put a Hager MCB or RCBO into a Wylex board even though they fit without modifications, but we can drill holes and fit glands that are not the same as the manufacture used to fire rate and test their board, can we have it both ways? tongue still firmly in my cheek.

 

[westward10]

Consumer units are not fire rated they are merely constructed from materials which are not readily combustible.

 

[Mike Johnson]

But do the manufactures instruction that are supposed to be adhered to allow for modifications to the board?

 

[123]

I would have used plaster board rawl plugs, the metal screw in ones. Man, you've gone to a lot of trouble for the sake of a rawl plug ?
Or possibly screw a piece of ply on to the wall into the joists, it would only be a little bigger than your original board.

Drywall anchors far better imo. Like these

 

[UNG]

Drywall anchors far better imo. Like these

Why didn't you say they were umbrella or brolly fixings you were linking to

 

[123]

Why didn't you say they were umbrella or brolly fixings you were linking to

To avoid regional differences in what things are called. I should have called them hollow wall anchors. But if I ask for a box of dry wall anchors at a certain size and that's what I get. If I ask for umbrella or brolly fixings I'd get a confused stare.

Same as 100A Service blocks, we call them Isco's, you call them Henleys

 

[UNG]

To avoid regional differences in what things are called. I should have called them hollow wall anchors. But if I ask for a box of dry wall anchors at a certain size and that's what I get. If I ask for umbrella or brolly fixings I'd get a confused stare.

Same as 100A Service blocks, we call them Isco's, you call them Henleys

If I asked my fixings suppliers for drywall anchors the response I would get is which ones do you want

 

[nicebutdim]

If I asked my fixings suppliers for drywall anchors the response I would get is which ones do you want

The post that sparked this interesting debate, about regional variation of terms used for fixings intended for use on hollow walls, also included a link to the specific type of product being reffered to.

If you asked your suppliers for drywall anchors and showed them the image in that link, I imagine they would simply ask how many you wanted.

 

[littlespark]

Some interesting reading on page 2 about knockouts.

some manufacturer have the same board but come with round KOs, square KOs or none at all, so you can drill what you need.

I would drill new fixing holes and have a good solid fixing to a wooden joist rather than use the supplied holes and possibly miss the woodwork in all four fixings.

Even brolly fixings can come loose if the plasterboard is the thin stuff.

 

[MJPD29]

To avoid regional differences in what things are called. I should have called them hollow wall anchors. But if I ask for a box of dry wall anchors at a certain size and that's what I get. If I ask for umbrella or brolly fixings I'd get a confused stare.

Same as 100A Service blocks, we call them Isco's, you call them Henleys

Actually had to look it up the first time I heard the term Henleys

 

[littlespark]

Don’t shoot me, but I like the Proteus 100A blocks. They come with replaceable shields so you can blank off the entries you don’t need, and can reuse them if things change.

 

[pc1966]

Don’t shoot me, but I like the Proteus 100A blocks. They come with replaceable shields so you can blank off the entries you don’t need, and can reuse them if things change.

Might be worth looking at, they must make something worthwhile after all!

 

[pc1966]

If it is plasterboard you are attaching to then plenty of options, but if it is horrible old lath-and-plaster then a board fixed to whatever beams you can find is a much better idea.

Actually, I don't think lath-and-plaster comes in any options other than "horrible and old".

 

[littlespark]

Actually, I don't think lath-and-plaster comes in any options other than "horrible and old".

Horrible, old and when working through it, in my hair!