Cutting back boxes in plasterboard

pc1966 · Aug 27, 2023

I find myself in the position of having to fit a few back boxes in to plasterboard. In the past for the odd one I just used a hand plasterboard saw to cut out a hole, but I wondered if anyone here has used something like the square/rectangular cutter adaptors you get for multi-tools to do this sort of thing. If so, how well did it work?

Suggestions for make/model?

TL;DR tips for cutting boxes in plasterboard

westward10 · Aug 27, 2023

Not that I do much of this anymore but a jab saw is most people's weapon, few holes and is done very quickly.

pc1966 · Aug 27, 2023

westward10 said:
Not that I do much of this anymore but a jab saw is most people's weapon, few holes and is done very quickly.

That is my current method, just wondered if anything easier for doing a dozen or so.

nicebutdim · Aug 27, 2023

Multitool would speed the process up a bit for 12 boxes, but don't use a good blade.

timhoward · Aug 27, 2023

You might have seen this

Yes, they work. I actually prefer a jab saw or a normal multi tool.
I’m sure it’s my own incompetence but I find it hard to get them straight with a box cutter.

westward10 · Aug 27, 2023

nicebutdim said:
Multitool would speed the process up a bit for 12 boxes, but don't use a good blade.

Have you tried it?

davesparks · Aug 27, 2023

I just use the multitool with a wide wood blade.

nicebutdim · Aug 27, 2023

westward10 said:
Have you tried it?

I keep a scrap blade for that very purpose. Also never lend a multi tool to someone without knowing what they want to cut - at least not with a decent blade in it.

westward10 · Aug 27, 2023

nicebutdim said:
I keep a scrap blade for that very purpose. Also never lend a multi tool to someone without knowing what they want to cut - at least not with a decent blade in it.

Is it any quicker?

nicebutdim · Aug 27, 2023

westward10 said:
Is it any quicker?

I would say no for 2 or 3 boxes, but would save a little time and effort on a dozen. Also less chance of damaging thin plaster board than a blunt jab saw.

davesparks · Aug 27, 2023

westward10 said:
Is it any quicker?

Not necessarily quicker but I find it much easier on my arthritic hands.

Pretty Mouth · Aug 27, 2023

Multitool + wood blade for me. I'm usually cutting into finished plaster board, and I find that the multitool gives a clean, straight cut, whereas I find a jab saw will chip the finish off and leave a rough-edged hole.

nicebutdim · Aug 27, 2023

The only hesitataion I have in using a multi tool is the fact that it lives underneath every other power tool. Needs to be worth the time of digging it out and carefully repacking everything so the lid closes.

pirate · Aug 27, 2023

I have used every tool known to man for this task! I have a dedicated mini-router which is very fast, and a mutitool which is also fast...they both create a lot of dust.
A sharp jab-saw is fast and accurate, creates much less dust and "swiping" the edges of the cutout with the back of the blade creates very accurate and "squared-off" apertures...and it doesn't need any power from mains or batteries, so all in all it's ideal for a few cuts in an occupied property. The mini-router is so fast though...if property is unoccupied and dust isn't a problem, it is super fast, and with the correct blade can trim very accurately. I love it...but it is a last resort if I want to minimise dust.
Jabsaw for me 90% of the time.

nicebutdim · Aug 27, 2023

Dust with a multi tool?

It cuts a much thinner section of material than a jab saw and shouldn't create more dust. Perhaps speed is an issue?

HappyHippyDad · Aug 27, 2023

As a few others have said... I use a multi tool rather than a jab saw. The plasterer politely (ish) suggested it as he said it was more likely to cut a smoothy, cleaner hole and he wouldn't need to return. He was right.

pirate · Aug 27, 2023

Fair point @nicebutdim However, the rapidity of the oscillation of a multitool or router creates much very fine dust which is rapidly airborne. A jabsaw is much slower and the dust is less fine, more "crumbly" and falls to the floor rather than becoming airborne.
That's my experience anyway...maybe I'm not skilled enough?
I always like the less intrusive approach for most tasks...yes, I still use buckle clips sometimes!
I always drill and screw rather than hammer, and I use a hole punch rather than a hole-saw to make holes in CUs and other accesories...gently does it!

nicebutdim · Aug 27, 2023

pirate said:
Fair point @nicebutdim However, the rapidity of the oscillation of a multitool or router creates much very fine dust which is rapidly airborne. A jabsaw is much slower and the dust is less fine, more "crumbly" and falls to the floor rather than becoming airborne.
That's my experience anyway...maybe I'm not skilled enough?
I always like the less intrusive approach for most tasks...yes, I still use buckle clips sometimes!
I always drill and screw rather than hammer, and I use a hole punch rather than a hole-saw to make holes in CUs and other accesories...gently does it!

Multi tool should be as intrusive as a jab saw, with a thin, clean line resulting from its use in pasterboard. There's no more skill involved in its use, than in using a jab saw - both involve following a pencil line. Both will, by their nature, create some airborne dust, but in both cases it should be minimal and not straying more than a very short distance from the cut surface. The only potential factor I could think of was excessive speed throwing dust a bit further. Perhaps its the tool itself or blade being used, but all I can say is my experience is very different from what you describe.

pirate · Aug 27, 2023

Happy to hear of your experince on this @nicebutdim
Maybe my technique is lacking! It probably is!
However, another reason I like the jabsaw is that you get tactile feedback, so if you hit an unexpected obstacle behind the plasterboard it's immediately obvious with the jabsaw...which can be useful feedback sometimes...
Plus, I am never in a hurry so taking 2 minutes more isn't a problem for me.
Guess I'm just old-fashioned...
I have every powertool imagineable, love using them, but if I can take a "gentler" route, I do that...
Not fast, not exciting, not fun...just gentle.
I use an electric screwdriver for face plate screws etc and it saves time and effort and my arthritic hands, but I like to do the final screwing back by hand...and I have never used a dugga-dugga in a CU...
I guess it's a case of what works for you...no wrong way really (except dugga-dugga in CU!)
No criticism intended for anyone who uses a multitool or router for backboxes in plasterboard...I do it too sometimes...all I was saying is that I like the slower, gentler approach, which is probably just because I am an old git!

ipf · Aug 28, 2023

pirate said:
I like the slower, gentler approach, which is probably just because I am an old git!

So never used a Stanley Yankee driver in years gone by?

What's a dugga-dugga?.......thought it was an Indian term

pirate · Aug 28, 2023

I've used a Yankee in years gone by...not a fan now!
Dugga-dugga=impact driver

pc1966 · Aug 28, 2023

Thanks folks! Seems the multi-tool and wide blade is the best option. For me speed is not really important, more about getting the holes the right size and straight each time.

rewireIT · Aug 28, 2023

On thin domestic plasterboard (or single skin) i use a fresh stanley blade in a knife. Gets the cleanest cut. If i'm doing millions of them, multi tool.

LukeD · Aug 28, 2023

Multitool with a plastic cut out frame a mate made. The size is prefect for both single /doubles .Blade fits against inner side .I just offer it up and put the blade through.

Vortigern · Aug 28, 2023

The worst thing to discover having already cut into the plaster board is that there is a stud going horizontal/vertical in the way. It can help to use a detector around the area you intend to cut to eliminate this as once cut....
I use a laser to line up the boxes and mark before cutting

littlespark · Aug 28, 2023

Vortigern said:
The worst thing to discover having already cut into the plaster board is that there is a stud going horizontal/vertical in the way. It can help to use a detector around the area you intend to cut to eliminate this as once cut....
I use a laser to line up the boxes and mark before cutting

Change the blunt blade to a sharp one and cut right through that offending stud….

I can’t believe this thread is at 25 messages already….

plasterboard…. Multi tool…. Go for it!

rewireIT · Aug 28, 2023

littlespark said:
Change the blunt blade to a sharp one and cut right through that offending stud….

I can’t believe this thread is at 25 messages already…. plasterboard…. Multi tool…. Go for it!

This forum is very bombastic.

DefyG · Aug 28, 2023

Borrowed one of these once - 'Drywall cutout tool', found it really easy and 'quick' once got hang of it. More time consuming marking out the boxes.

mainline · Aug 28, 2023

DefyG said:
Borrowed one of these once - 'Drywall cutout tool', found it really easy and 'quick' once got hang of it. More time consuming marking out the boxes.
View attachment 110220

Multi tool wide blade, decent green laser, and a template tool.

nicebutdim · Aug 28, 2023

mainline said:
Multi tool wide blade, decent green laser, and a template tool.

View attachment 110226

A colleague uses one of those. It's good and the level is suprisingly accurate. Not sure that it's any faster than drawing round a box with boat level on top. If setting multiple boxes a laser needs to be set up anyway.

pc1966 · Aug 29, 2023

DefyG said:
Borrowed one of these once - 'Drywall cutout tool', found it really easy and 'quick' once got hang of it. More time consuming marking out the boxes.
View attachment 110220

Sort of a narrow-body jigsaw!

Not sure that price is justifiable though for the handful I need to do.

pc1966 · Aug 29, 2023

mainline said:
Multi tool wide blade, decent green laser, and a template tool.

That looks a brilliant thing!

brianmoooore · Aug 29, 2023

Vortigern said:
The worst thing to discover having already cut into the plaster board is that there is a stud going horizontal/vertical in the way.

On the other hand, you can then fit a proper metal box, instead of one of those flimsy plastic things.

ipf · Aug 29, 2023

brianmoooore said:
On the other hand, you can then fit a proper metal box, instead of one of those flimsy plastic things.

The Appleby ones with yellow lug pieces aren’t too bad. Only ones for me..when needed.

nicebutdim · Aug 29, 2023

ipf said:
The Appleby ones with yellow lug pieces aren’t too bad. Only ones for me..when needed.

Generally prefer them over other makes, but lugs only allow for fitment in single board. No chance they'll fit double boarded walls without cutting away at rear board, so on those occasions I prefer 'lesser' brands.

loz2754 · Aug 29, 2023

nicebutdim said:
Generally prefer them over other makes, but lugs only allow for fitment in single board. No chance they'll fit double boarded walls without cutting away at rear board, so on those occasions I prefer 'lesser' brands.

47mm deep boxes will.

Mike Johnson · Aug 29, 2023

Multi tool every time for me, but does not work on a solid flint wall with internal sand and cement render

then its a carbide tip hole saw followed with a hammer and chisel.

nicebutdim · Aug 29, 2023

Mike Johnson said:
Multi tool every time for me, but does not work on a solid flint wall with internal sand and cement render then its a carbide tip hole saw followed with a hammer and chisel.

Never heard of anyone trying to cut stone walls with a multi tool. I guess there's a first time for everything.

littlespark · Aug 29, 2023

nicebutdim said:
Never heard of anyone trying to cut stone walls with a multi tool. I guess there's a first time for everything.

It works.

Ok… only a certain blade on a certain type of block… but if you’re lucky in that respect…
You can basically scrape the hole flat with a bolster chisel. No hammer involved… and make rawlplug holes with a plumbers old screwdriver.

mainline · Aug 29, 2023

nicebutdim said:
Never heard of anyone trying to cut stone walls with a multi tool. I guess there's a first time for everything.

I guess someone's got to try it first, electrical pioneers

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