Brew panel

[westward10]

Is it the ssr status indicator.

 

[Mark Stewart]

I keep looking at my diagram and all I think of is that when I through the element switch A1 is getting power. Is this right if the SSR should be controlling the element?

 

[pc1966]

So if the boil light is on permanently is it overheating then?

The diagram looks OK, but are you sure it is wired that way?

 

[Mark Stewart]

Yes the wiring looks ok, could it be SSR? Yes the water is boiling higher than what the PID's set to.

 

[pc1966]

If the SSR has shorted out internally then it might put full power on all the time even when the input control is changing.

They are fairly simple to connect (4 wires!) so the reasons for failure would be:

• Bad luck (faulty part)
• Incorrect ratings (e.g. 110V used on 230V, or control signal wrong)
• Not enough heat sinking so it got too hot

You might be able to test it, say if you disconnect the control wires 9and insulate them) then the boil light should not be on at all. If it is then you have either a wiring error or the SSR is internally shorted.

 

[westward10]

SSRs are prone to failing closed, disconnect the control to it and see if it stays the same.
As stated above

 

[Mark Stewart]

Cheers pc1966 I have a spare SSR and tried it and it works, When my coil relays overheated it must have damaged it.

Thanks again for your quick response.

 

[pc1966]

Keep an eye on it. The SSR is likely to be dissipating around 30W so it really needs the heatsink action of the panel it is fixed to and if it gets too hot then it will generally fail short (as @westward10 has already said). That is the reason that semiconductor switches are not generally allowed for safety switching (isolation, etc)