Confirm Wiring and LED Driver Compatibility?

[MPTESE]

Hello,

I desire to power (4) 300W LED COBs simultaneously via a single 120v AC plug. Each COB has their own 300W driver. The driver is AC input and DC output. It is a constant current driver.

Here's the spec sheet of the driver. I assume I would be using the H-AB, which provides a DC voltage range of 29-58v, and 3-in-1 dimming which is another part of this.
https://www.meanwell-web.com/content/files/pdfs/productPdfs/MW/HBGC-300/HBGC-300-H-AB.pdf

Here's the spec sheet of the COB:
https://download.luminus.com/datasheets/Luminus_CVM-GEN4_Datasheet.pdf

Here's a crude drawing of my plan.

1. What are your thoughts on compatibility between the LED COB and LED Driver? Seems like a good match to me, I just don't want any chance of frying the LED so would like some other eyes to confirm. Similarly, are there any precautions or additions one should make to prevent overload in any way?
2. Please let me know your thoughts on the wiring. Some might question a 10amp draw like this, and the addition of a plug, but it is very normal for my specific application.
3. I plan on implementing dimming, but need to ensure flicker-free for camera application up to 2,000FPS. I imagine I can go the PWM dimming route via the driver, but will have to test it. Other than just a potentiometer/analog, what is an efficient way to dim the LEDs and ensure flicker-free application? I understand if this means adding an additional component vs utilizing the driver's internal dimming functionalities.

Thank you very much!

 

[plugsandsparks]

Cannot see the drawing. Does look a good match. Trick is how you set it up so that it lasts. If this is to be used indoors keep an eye on temps both of the cob and heatsink of the driver. You can see that they have a sweet spot. I would start at about 4800mA and check temps, bringing it up to your desired brightness steadily. If you want the max light output and its indoors small fans would help to keep temps down.
4 of these lamps on a single plug may trip the breaker so consider upgrading the cct or fire them up sequentially

 

[MPTESE]

Cannot see the drawing. Does look a good match. Trick is how you set it up so that it lasts. If this is to be used indoors keep an eye on temps both of the cob and heatsink of the driver. You can see that they have a sweet spot. I would start at about 4800mA and check temps, bringing it up to your desired brightness steadily. If you want the max light output and its indoors small fans would help to keep temps down.
4 of these lamps on a single plug may trip the breaker so consider upgrading the cct or fire them up sequentially

Thanks for the reply. The comfortable current of the COB is 5A, and at 55v that would be 275 watts. How can I keep it close to this range as its max? The default current of the driver is 5.6AMPS. How do I play with the relationship between the voltage and current? The driver has a built in pot that can be adjusted with a screwdriver, I believe.
Here's a direct link:

https://www.electriciansforums.net/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.diychatroom.com%2Fattachment.php%3Fattachmentid%3D596377%26d%3D1588338503.jpg&hash=86778e6557766b2de210be2ccaf06b20

 

[plugsandsparks]

It will need setting up. Use the pot to set the voltage as per the diagrams, whether you measure the voltage or current use an instrument that is accurate and be aware of the tolerances quoted, err on the low side until you know its not getting too hot. Its easier to measure the voltage accurately and this should translate directly to the necessary current.
You drawing is not what i would do but i dont know your application. All i can say is that turning on 4 X 300W drivers is a bit of a bump on the supply, no problem once they are on but you may trip a breaker.
Make sure you get the polarity correct on the DC side of the driver and i believe the sweet spot may be lower than 5000mA, check the failure rate graphs against temp.
BTW i would not want to be in the same room with that lot on... lol

 

[MPTESE]

It will need setting up. Use the pot to set the voltage as per the diagrams, whether you measure the voltage or current use an instrument that is accurate and be aware of the tolerances quoted, err on the low side until you know its not getting too hot. Its easier to measure the voltage accurately and this should translate directly to the necessary current.
You drawing is not what i would do but i dont know your application. All i can say is that turning on 4 X 300W drivers is a bit of a bump on the supply, no problem once they are on but you may trip a breaker.

Thank you sir. My application is to build a mobile light for filmmaking/video production. This is not a permanent installation at the top of a high-bay warehouse, etc. For somewhat of a visual reference, see the image below. Although, mine won't be in an enclosed metal housing, rather a frame made of aluminum angle to allow the best possible airflow to the heatsinks. I can share the specs of the heatsink if you're interested. I'm not worried about the breaker limitation..we regularly go on location and source clean 15 or 20amp breakers to power lights that pull more than 10amps..or bring our own genny or adapt from dryer/range plugs, etc.

How would you criticize the wiring, and what would you propose? I'm all ears.

 

[plugsandsparks]

MAX. NO. of PSUs on 16A CIRCUIT BREAKER 2 unit(circuit breaker of type B) / 4 units(circuit breaker of type C) at 230VAC

Inrush current: COLD START 45A(twidth=1300 s measured at 50% Ipeak) at 230VAC; Per NEMA 410

The above are your limits, in simple terms it would be better to turn them on individually.
You could just use a 4 gang switched extension lead, by the time you have switched them on individually , the inrush would be over

 

[MPTESE]

MAX. NO. of PSUs on 16A CIRCUIT BREAKER 2 unit(circuit breaker of type B) / 4 units(circuit breaker of type C) at 230VAC

Inrush current: COLD START 45A(twidth=1300 s measured at 50% Ipeak) at 230VAC; Per NEMA 410

The above are your limits, in simple terms it would be better to turn them on individually.
You could just use a 4 gang switched extension lead, by the time you have switched them on individually , the inrush would be over

I'm not familiar with your inrush current calculations. I see that's a nema thing (US), but confused why there's 230v in your calculation. If it wasn't implied, the AC side is all 120v.. But I dont' know enough about that. I'm probably just sounding ignorant. If that doesn't change things, I will take note about turning them on incriminentally.. But it might be nice to make this thing hook up to a DMX controller that might need a timed and immediate blast of all that light.

We power up HMIs which I believe have a much higher in-rush current before they settle, 1,800Watts worth, and it does fine on a 20amp breaker and sometimes even a clean 15amp! (Witnessed not partaked).

And to your comment about not being in the same room...YES, I am after a LOT of light with this build ! Hopefully approaching the output of a 4k HMI.. the only way to tell is to build and measure with a light meter. I will put 60deg lenses on to concentrate the beam angle even more.

And I'm still open to any wiring advice - I want to do it right.
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[plugsandsparks]

They are not my figures, they are directly from the driver spec you posted. They will be much higher at 120V. I have not done any calcs. I just know from experience large LED drivers can be difficult to turn on because of a very large current draw for a very short time.
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End of day, just build it and see, wont take much effort to switch individually if it wont hold
[automerge]1588368196[/automerge]
My only wiring comment relates to connected 4 X lamps to one plug and going "all in"