Discuss Cooker Hood Problem in the The Welcome Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Hi,has the motor got speed control,and is this achieved via the controller itself?
Yes, controller provides the speed control to the motor across the 3 windings, 3 different resistances measured. I think it was something like, 58 ohms, 118, and 165 ohms. This indicates all windings have same resistance but are supplied at different intervals via the controller I think.
 
Do you know type of motor, universal, shaded pole, split phase? I know you mentioned capacitor but is that definately to do with the motor.
 
Hi,it sounds like a Tapped winding type motor,which would have your four wires,usually the high speed is direct to main windings,(your first reading),with the medium and low being additional windings in series (your two other readings).

Has the motor got any nomenclature indicating it's operating voltage? only asking as some run at lower voltages,and if so,your mains injection may have upset it:)

Always tricky to diagnose from a keyboard...at this stage,i would still be keen to identify,type and fault...but i would have already fitted a new hood...just cheaper re: time spent;)
 
Hi,it sounds like a Tapped winding type motor,which would have your four wires,usually the high speed is direct to main windings,(your first reading),with the medium and low being additional windings in series (your two other readings).

Has the motor got any nomenclature indicating it's operating voltage? only asking as some run at lower voltages,and if so,your mains injection may have upset it:)

Always tricky to diagnose from a keyboard...at this stage,i would still be keen to identify,type and fault...but i would have already fitted a new hood...just cheaper re: time spent;)
Hi
The motor is a direct replacement for the old one so am unsure why it wouldn't work.I agree, I would have advised a new cooker hood had customer not already bought controller which sent us down this path.
 
Hj
Hi - The fuse which blew was a 3A. I said earlier it was a Fused spur but it was a plug and socket so the 3A fuse was in plug. I replaced and this never blew again. The lights work via the controller. The controller also provides speed control. 3 output speeds. The windings of the motor seem intact as I have measured between what I think to be the windings. The readings pretty much double then treble.Capacitor is healthy(tested). Tried testing separately motor and controller. When switching each output speed, a voltage 240Vac could be seen at each output wire of controller (red, black, blue to neutral). When connecting brown of motor to mains L, which is where I believe it has to be wired to, the other windings (wires from motor, Red, Black, Blue) all seem to have a voltage on them when separate from controller. Would this be backfeeding to the outputs of the controller? If so then the brown wire which I believed to be permanently live may not be the case. I just wired it as it had been before so assumed this to be correct.

I was presented with similar problems by my nephew who had the same cooker hood and the fan stopped working. Motor winding resistance of increasing value was measurable between all colours other than to brown in inverse proportion to motor speed selection. The important thing was there was no resistance reading between brown and any other colour, ie open circuit. Brown is permanently connected to live and the controller applies neutral to one if the other coloured wires depending on the motor speed switch pressed. I concluded the motor had blown as resistance should have been measurable between brown and any of the other colours. As you found when the motor is connected full 240V is measured between brown and all other colours. This is because all of the other colours are interconnected via motor windings, they are just like taps of a transformer winding. My conclusion of a blown motor was correct as a new motor £53 solved the problem. Why your motor didn't work is a mystery but i'd guess you were supplied with a duff motor.
 

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