U

uksparks

Hi,

Just said to someone on the phone, yeah I can do that for you, 10 min job, no problem then just gave it an ounce of thought and realized I probably cant.

Heres the situation,

Standard pull cord switch on ceiling, wants it swapping for a PIR.

Can I do it without doing anything to the wiring?, probably not im guessing... I need a neutral done i...

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Or can I run both wires from the switch into the line and neutral at the bottom and bridge across, or will that not work?
 
i'm sure i've heard of occupancy sensors that don't require a neutral
 
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If the wiring from above is accessible, the take the neutral from the light fitting to the PIR.
 
I doubt it's accessible to be honest... Just thinking about it, the bloke also said he has a heater light unit old flying saucer thing, I bet it will be too much to switch on the pir.

The bloke wants the pull switch taking out as it reminds him if his wife who died of cancer last year every time he pulls it as she used to get up in the night and he would hear it.
 
Danlers do square switch plate type PIRs that do not need a neutral wire, I think their recessed ceiling ones do need a neutral.
 
Hand about this needs the light on for more than 12 hours per day.

thats no good, I think I better find a neutral.
 
Assuming its upstairs bathroom you just go into the loft and replace the twin that goes to the switch with a 3core.
 
I doubt it's accessible to be honest... Just thinking about it, the bloke also said he has a heater light unit old flying saucer thing, I bet it will be too much to switch on the pir.

The bloke wants the pull switch taking out as it reminds him if his wife who died of cancer last year every time he pulls it as she used to get up in the night and he would hear it.

How will it be too much for the pir, you could use one to turn off a supply from a sub station if you wanted to.

Use Contactors etc (dont know how big contactors go upto or if name changes)
 
How will it be too much for the pir, you could use one to turn off a supply from a sub station if you wanted to.

Use Contactors etc (dont know how big contactors go upto or if name changes)

Well it could well be too much if heater was higher than rated current of PIR. Also if he was using contactors he would def need a neutral :)
 
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Is the heater not on a separate circuit to the light ?
 
Is the heater not on a separate circuit to the light ?
Good point because by modifying connections in the base of the unit you could replace the cord switch with an PIR sensor switch.
The heater part of the unit is normally switched by a cord hanging from the unit.
 
Yes I always thought the heater was fed from its own circuit from the CU other wise you have a heater on a lighting circuit and with all them 100 watt light bulbs on the same circuit (back in the 70;s) you would soon be blowing the 5 amp 3036 fuse Mind you I have never seen how they are wired so I could be wrong :)
 
That's true. It's one of those old flying saucer things with asbestos in so would rather not take it off the ceiling to be honest.

ive just pope round too see as it's only local, it's a 3036 board, old flying saucer, pull switch is right next to the door.

He would ideally like the switch on the outside wall of the bathroom, I could easily do that but there's no flipping rcd... So cannot just stuff cables in the wall.

the pir idea had kind of come to a halt as have no neutral too. I really don't want to be taking the light off the ceiling as it's definitely an asbestos one as have seen loads if them, probably fall apart at the same time anyway.

oh and the bathroom is downstairs...

any thoughts not involving up selling a new CU or RCD as that's not really possible either.
 
That light heater thing, all the ones I've seen are wired on the light circuit, not saying they are all like that, but certainly the last few I have taken out have been.
 
Why does he want to get rid of the pull cord sound like a load of work with no gain
 

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Is this possible?
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