Discuss Job quotes vs DIY Part P Notification Requirements for bathrooms in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hello everyone,

I hope nobody minds that my first post is a question. We have a bit of a situation brewing at home with regards to our new shower room. We had an electrician scheduled to come as part of the bathroom installation, but he had to give backword. As the electrics are now holding up the overall project, I contacted a couple of other local pro's, who returned quotes which I found to be rather high, so I am considering doing the work myself.

The work involves replacing 3 switches, installing 3 or 4 LED downlights and drivers replacing halogen, one extractor fan off a fused spur (existing), a single shaver socket replacement and thats about it. Most of the wiring is already in place and is suitable according my what I can understand from the regs. The quotes came in at ÂŁ880+VAT and ÂŁ420+VAT, labour and cable only. To me, that suggests they simply didn't want the job, or am I out of touch with rates?

Can I do this myself? I have the knowledge to do it properly (I believe) but the sticking point is that it is in a "special area" according to Part P. That is to say, one of the downlights will be within 600mm of the showerhead. The fittings are IP44 rated but I plan to replace the closest fitting with an IP65/7 once I can locate a suitable matching fitting. I believe IP44 is compliant, as a minimum.

If I go ahead and do this myself, can I notify building control to get an inspection certificate or am I putting myself in a difficult position, legally speaking for when we eventually come to sell the house?

I'm not penny pinching, but the quotes seemed so extreme, that I at least have to consider the option of a DIY install. Electrical installs, along with gas, are an area of DIY where I'm extremely cautious, because if I had gaps in my knowledge, I wouldn't be aware of them.

I have another chap coming next week who's NICEIC and depending on his price he might end up doing it, but I just want to backstop the whole thing, if that makes sense.

I'd appreciate any feedback on the above if anyone has time.

Thank you.
 
Hello everyone,

I hope nobody minds that my first post is a question. We have a bit of a situation brewing at home with regards to our new shower room. We had an electrician scheduled to come as part of the bathroom installation, but he had to give backword. As the electrics are now holding up the overall project, I contacted a couple of other local pro's, who returned quotes which I found to be rather high, so I am considering doing the work myself.

The work involves replacing 3 switches, installing 3 or 4 LED downlights and drivers replacing halogen, one extractor fan off a fused spur (existing), a single shaver socket replacement and thats about it. Most of the wiring is already in place and is suitable according my what I can understand from the regs. The quotes came in at ÂŁ880+VAT and ÂŁ420+VAT, labour and cable only. To me, that suggests they simply didn't want the job, or am I out of touch with rates?

Can I do this myself? I have the knowledge to do it properly (I believe) but the sticking point is that it is in a "special area" according to Part P. That is to say, one of the downlights will be within 600mm of the showerhead. The fittings are IP44 rated but I plan to replace the closest fitting with an IP65/7 once I can locate a suitable matching fitting. I believe IP44 is compliant, as a minimum.

If I go ahead and do this myself, can I notify building control to get an inspection certificate or am I putting myself in a difficult position, legally speaking for when we eventually come to sell the house?

I'm not penny pinching, but the quotes seemed so extreme, that I at least have to consider the option of a DIY install. Electrical installs, along with gas, are an area of DIY where I'm extremely cautious, because if I had gaps in my knowledge, I wouldn't be aware of them.

I have another chap coming next week who's NICEIC and depending on his price he might end up doing it, but I just want to backstop the whole thing, if that makes sense.

I'd appreciate any feedback on the above if anyone has time.

Thank you.

Its impossible to know if the quotes given are reasonable as it would depend on the scope of the work and the area you are in.. ÂŁ420+VAT does not seem unreasonable, it will likely take multiple visits...

If the work required building regs certifications, this can be done through the council, my council charges ÂŁ450 for the privilege, which will put your quotes into perspective.. However electrics just like gas can kill, especially in a bathroom so it is wise to get a professional..

You could try looking for more one man band type electricians that are not VAT registered, running an electrical business with potentially multiple electricians is very expensive, one man band types tend to have lower overheads so along with not having to pay VAT it will likely be cheaper. ÂŁ70 +VAT per hour for VAT registered companies is probably about the average ÂŁ40-ÂŁ45 per hour for one man band is about average..

Cost of tools, insurance, van, fuel and materials have all sky rocketed in the last year or so.. I don't think its a case of they don't want the work I think it just reflects these costs..
 
Its impossible to know if the quotes given are reasonable as it would depend on the scope of the work and the area you are in.. ÂŁ420+VAT does not seem unreasonable, it will likely take multiple visits...

If the work required building regs certifications, this can be done through the council, my council charges ÂŁ450 for the privilege, which will put your quotes into perspective.. However electrics just like gas can kill, especially in a bathroom so it is wise to get a professional..

You could try looking for more one man band type electricians that are not VAT registered, running an electrical business with potentially multiple electricians is very expensive, one man band types tend to have lower overheads so along with not having to pay VAT it will likely be cheaper. ÂŁ70 +VAT per hour for VAT registered companies is probably about the average ÂŁ40-ÂŁ45 per hour for one man band is about average..

Cost of tools, insurance, van, fuel and materials have all sky rocketed in the last year or so.. I don't think its a case of they don't want the work I think it just reflects these costs..

Thanks for your reply. I forgot to say, we did specify that the work would be taken to 1st fix only in terms of scope so I'm not sure why it would require multiple days of work? All the people approached were one man bands rather than larger companies. Area is semi rural north of England, not a rich area, just normal working class folks like me.

I thought I had defined the scope of works in my original post. If I may ask, is there anything I'm missing in terms of detailing the job from an electricians point of view? It would be useful to know in terms of assessing the quotes we have received.

Certainly feeling the cost increases in the past year too, so that I can very much appreciate.
 
Hello everyone,

I hope nobody minds that my first post is a question. We have a bit of a situation brewing at home with regards to our new shower room. We had an electrician scheduled to come as part of the bathroom installation, but he had to give backword. As the electrics are now holding up the overall project, I contacted a couple of other local pro's, who returned quotes which I found to be rather high, so I am considering doing the work myself.

The work involves replacing 3 switches, installing 3 or 4 LED downlights and drivers replacing halogen, one extractor fan off a fused spur (existing), a single shaver socket replacement and thats about it. Most of the wiring is already in place and is suitable according my what I can understand from the regs. The quotes came in at ÂŁ880+VAT and ÂŁ420+VAT, labour and cable only. To me, that suggests they simply didn't want the job, or am I out of touch with rates?

Can I do this myself? I have the knowledge to do it properly (I believe) but the sticking point is that it is in a "special area" according to Part P. That is to say, one of the downlights will be within 600mm of the showerhead. The fittings are IP44 rated but I plan to replace the closest fitting with an IP65/7 once I can locate a suitable matching fitting. I believe IP44 is compliant, as a minimum.

If I go ahead and do this myself, can I notify building control to get an inspection certificate or am I putting myself in a difficult position, legally speaking for when we eventually come to sell the house?

I'm not penny pinching, but the quotes seemed so extreme, that I at least have to consider the option of a DIY install. Electrical installs, along with gas, are an area of DIY where I'm extremely cautious, because if I had gaps in my knowledge, I wouldn't be aware of them.

I have another chap coming next week who's NICEIC and depending on his price he might end up doing it, but I just want to backstop the whole thing, if that makes sense.

I'd appreciate any feedback on the above if anyone has time.

Thank you.
There's nothing stopping you from notifying building control and then doing the work yourself.

Sounds like a days work if new cable has to be pulled and it's hard to give true figures without seeing how difficult the layout is/how accessible the wiring might be, but bare in mind you're likely looking at ÂŁ250-400 a day for a qualified electrician and ÂŁ80-200 per day for a mate, it's about right price-wise.

I asked for two local 'Mr Clear-It' man and tipper companies to quote me last week to remove 5 kitchen units, 6 meters of worktop and 8 kitchen unit doors from my front garden and I had two quotes of ÂŁ295+VAT and ÂŁ195+VAT. It took me 3 hours to clear it into my estate and take it to the local tip on my own, lobbing it into a flatbed would have taken me literally 10 minutes.

The last time my wife got her hair cut, it cost me ÂŁ180 and she was only in there an hour.

Just bare in mind electricians are highly qualified and it costs a lot of money and takes a lot of training to get the knowledge, experience and equipment necessary to carry out the job. A good electrician is worth what he charges.
 
Just bare in mind electricians are highly qualified and it costs a lot of money and takes a lot of training to get the knowledge, experience and equipment necessary to carry out the job. A good electrician is worth what he charges.

I understand. I truly do. Operating costs nowadays are extremely high and it has to be reflected in the rates charged. Insurance alone, as a chartered professional myself (non electrical obviously), I think I paid out somewhere in the region of ÂŁ6k this year. It's not chicken feed anymore, if it ever was.

Your wifes hair at ÂŁ180, well, that just makes me want to buy you a pint!

All the wiring is completely exposed. We're at 1st fix, so open studwork, no plasterboard, theres no chasing to be done, nothing complicated at all and all manufacturer supplied kit. 2nd fix we would take care of ourselves.

I'll look into building control notification options, appreciate the tip.

I'm not entirely sure I understand the purpose of Part P at all, either the work is compliant or it isn't, surely? It's not something I've really dealt with before, but I noticed a lot of plumbers seem to have it.
 
I understand. I truly do. Operating costs nowadays are extremely high and it has to be reflected in the rates charged. Insurance alone, as a chartered professional myself (non electrical obviously), I think I paid out somewhere in the region of ÂŁ6k this year. It's not chicken feed anymore, if it ever was.

Your wifes hair at ÂŁ180, well, that just makes me want to buy you a pint!

All the wiring is completely exposed. We're at 1st fix, so open studwork, no plasterboard, theres no chasing to be done, nothing complicated at all and all manufacturer supplied kit. 2nd fix we would take care of ourselves.

I'll look into building control notification options, appreciate the tip.

I'm not entirely sure I understand the purpose of Part P at all, either the work is compliant or it isn't, surely? It's not something I've really dealt with before, but I noticed a lot of plumbers seem to have it.
Ok if it's all open and you just want cables putting in then it's half a days work.

Bare in mind though that any spark worth his salt will do some testing too so that adds to the cost, and it looks like you want around 9 points doing, and a lot of people charge per point. Can be anywhere from ÂŁ30-ÂŁ75 per point on average from what i've seen so those prices you were quoted seem about right.

It's looks dear for what it is i agree but when you break it down it's not actually that bad.

The problem with electrics is it looks like not much has changed and so people can't understand why it costs so much.

You can put a hole in the wall for an extension, or get some kitchen units put in, or your central heating to start working again, it's a tangible difference and people don't mind paying for it. With electric though, everything 'looks like it works' and then you change a consumer unit or swap some lights out and you just have what you had before on the surface of it and so people complain about the cost!

I will probably go against the grain on here and say there's nothing difficult about what you want to do and you could easily do it yourself if you do your research prior and do some thorough swatting up on the science and principles behind circuits and the big do's and don'ts. However i would still get someone in to test before you work, because things might not be what they seem electrically with the existing circuitry.

Remember though that if you want to go 'by the book' you'll have to notify building control and that'll be another huge fee on top which makes doing it yourself economically unviable. Just better to get a spark in to do it.
 
I'm not running my business any more, as I couldn't make enough money to exist.

I did mainly kitchens and bathrooms. I think my quotes to do bathrooms, which was typically a few lights, extractor fan etc was about ÂŁ400-500, including materials. You quote for ÂŁ420 + vat, labour only is quite reasonable IMO.

I wasn't vat registered, as said try someone who isn't.

Apart from working for nothing, one of the other reasons I packed in, was the nightmare messes I had to clean up, was diy bodges, that you typically find in pervious kitchen & bathroom refurbs, no offence meant.

Just spent the last two weekends decorating my kitchen & utility room. Son said, why not use his painter next time, pay a few hundred quid, and enjoy the weekend sun. He has a point.
 
All the wiring is completely exposed. We're at 1st fix, so open studwork, no plasterboard, theres no chasing to be done, nothing complicated at all and all manufacturer supplied kit. 2nd fix we would take care of ourselves.
IMO you have just detailed why your job is attracting high quotes

With regard to second fixing yourself how do you intend to carry out final testing and certification once the second fix is complete
I'll look into building control notification options, appreciate the tip.
I think you will have to as no electrician is going to do the 1st fix and certify the complete job
I'm not entirely sure I understand the purpose of Part P at all, either the work is compliant or it isn't, surely? It's not something I've really dealt with before, but I noticed a lot of plumbers seem to have it.
There are various thoughts behind what Part P is about but that is a different debate.
Compliant work will usually include testing and certification of the completed work as you only want an electrician to carry out the first part of the work then as you are completing the 2nd fix the final testing is down to you
It is not very often you come across jobs like this it is more usual to find a DIY 1st fix and then get an electrician in to complete the 2nd fix, testing, certification and notification
 
Hi all.

Thank you for the detailed and informative responses.

I've spent the afternoon tracing wires and trying to identify how the circuits are arranged. Having taken the floor boards up, it's like spaghetti junction up there. Nothing has been clipped up, no labelling, just a real mess.

On top of that, when looking at the current fused spur, whoever installed it didn't even bother to secure the common live and had put it in L1 leaving COM empty. As I removed the backbox, the live popped out. A closer look at the screw suggests it was never secured. Potentially dangerous I'd think? That alone has put me off, as I've no idea what else might be lurking up there.

We also have a wire coming up from below along the party wall, which we can't identify at all. Can't be a good thing.

I'm not going to do this. Half the battle is knowing when you're out of your depth.

This afternoon wasn't a total waste of time as the floor boards are now up and everything properly exposed, so the electrician will have a much clearer picture of what needs doing.
 
Hi all.

Thank you for the detailed and informative responses.

I've spent the afternoon tracing wires and trying to identify how the circuits are arranged. Having taken the floor boards up, it's like spaghetti junction up there. Nothing has been clipped up, no labelling, just a real mess.

On top of that, when looking at the current fused spur, whoever installed it didn't even bother to secure the common live and had put it in L1 leaving COM empty. As I removed the backbox, the live popped out. A closer look at the screw suggests it was never secured. Potentially dangerous I'd think? That alone has put me off, as I've no idea what else might be lurking up there.

We also have a wire coming up from below along the party wall, which we can't identify at all. Can't be a good thing.

I'm not going to do this. Half the battle is knowing when you're out of your depth.

This afternoon wasn't a total waste of time as the floor boards are now up and everything properly exposed, so the electrician will have a much clearer picture of what needs doing.

I think you have made the right decision. Keep us posted with how you get on.
 
I think you have made the right decision. Keep us posted with how you get on.
Yeah i think it's a nice refreshing change to see OP admit his limitations. I'm a 'have a go' hero too, but sometimes you just have to get a pro in. I remember trying to fix my powersteering pump and i just couldn't get one of the fittings off and after fannying about for about 2 days reading forums, asking questions etc i just gave in and called a mobile mechanic. 45 quid and 20 minutes later the pump was fitted lol.
 
I hope you dont mind me asking another question, but it just occurred to me, as it stands now one of the upstairs lighting circuits isn't working because a switch has been removed on the lighting ring during demolition. The split is just terminated at each side with Wago spring lever connectors at the moment.

Before the electrician visits, I'd like to reconnect that so we can see what we are doing without using torches.

Could I ask what is the correct way to permanently connect twin core and earth together? I was going to use a 10amp choc box (6A MCB). Assuming this is screwed down and out of the way, is this suitable?

Pulling a completely new cable would be a major upheaval so if we can join, it would be a relief.

Thanks again and yes, knowing ones own limitations is important and electricals aren't suitable for mucking about with, in my view.
 
I hope you dont mind me asking another question, but it just occurred to me, as it stands now one of the upstairs lighting circuits isn't working because a switch has been removed on the lighting ring during demolition. The split is just terminated at each side with Wago spring lever connectors at the moment.

Before the electrician visits, I'd like to reconnect that so we can see what we are doing without using torches.

Could I ask what is the correct way to permanently connect twin core and earth together? I was going to use a 10amp choc box (6A MCB). Assuming this is screwed down and out of the way, is this suitable?

Pulling a completely new cable would be a major upheaval so if we can join, it would be a relief.

Thanks again and yes, knowing ones own limitations is important and electricals aren't suitable for mucking about with, in my view.
I'm not sure how the cable has been left from your description, but to connect wire you can use 'wago' connectors with a sealed wago junction box.

All the separate colours go together in their own separate wagos, so one wago with the earths, one with the neutrals, one with the lives, put them inside the box, fix the box to something and seal closed.

You can get away with just the wagos but you shouldn't technically do this. If the connection is going to be permanent just buy the wago box it's like 2 quid.

Just an fyi, lights aren't in rings they are radials.
 
mate of mine, also a forum member is in Leeds. NICEIC approved and he would give you an honest, sensible quote. pm me and i'll pass his number on.
 
mate of mine, also a forum member is in Leeds. NICEIC approved and he would give you an honest, sensible quote. pm me and i'll pass his number on.

Thank you @telectrix , I will do pending outcome of tomorrows visit.

@philectrical Cheers for the advice. It's all sorted and yes, radials, makes sense. More like a tree structure and less like a circle (sockets)?

I've spent the afternoon on more research and removed a circuit I put in 15 years ago as a young lad. Evidently I didn't have any earth sleeving at the time, so glad thats come out too. I'd used electricians tape to wrap the earth.

As a side note, we also solved the mystery of why electric toothbrushes would never charge properly in the bathroom. Turns out the bloody extractor fan and shaver socket were fused together on a 3a spur. As theres a velux, we rarely used the fan...lol
 
Ok if it's all open and you just want cables putting in then it's half a days work.

Bare in mind though that any spark worth his salt will do some testing too so that adds to the cost, and it looks like you want around 9 points doing, and a lot of people charge per point. Can be anywhere from ÂŁ30-ÂŁ75 per point on average from what i've seen so those prices you were quoted seem about right.

It's looks dear for what it is i agree but when you break it down it's not actually that bad.

The problem with electrics is it looks like not much has changed and so people can't understand why it costs so much.

You can put a hole in the wall for an extension, or get some kitchen units put in, or your central heating to start working again, it's a tangible difference and people don't mind paying for it. With electric though, everything 'looks like it works' and then you change a consumer unit or swap some lights out and you just have what you had before on the surface of it and so people complain about the cost!

I will probably go against the grain on here and say there's nothing difficult about what you want to do and you could easily do it yourself if you do your research prior and do some thorough swatting up on the science and principles behind circuits and the big do's and don'ts. However i would still get someone in to test before you work, because things might not be what they seem electrically with the existing circuitry.

Remember though that if you want to go 'by the book' you'll have to notify building control and that'll be another huge fee on top which makes doing it yourself economically unviable. Just better to get a spark in to do it.

Can I ask what you mean by an individual "point". Does this mean for example, a 1 way 1 gang switch, single socket, or would a single "point" encompass say, a 3 gang switch?

I have no problem at all with paying for skilled electricians but yes, its in some cases invisible work so I can see why some people might grumble. I was a computer network administrator for a lot of years, which was similarly invisible to the end user.

I saw the building control fee's, which are quite high. To be honest, I might just get some training and end up doing part P myself just for personal use, especially since work can probably be persuaded to pay for it. Wouldn't make me competant on its own, I realise. Two or three LABC fees and it's not far off paid for itself. Plus, it's very interesting stuff, although I think I'm a bit long in the tooth to be going for full registration.
 
I saw the building control fee's, which are quite high. To be honest, I might just get some training and end up doing part P myself just for personal use, especially since work can probably be persuaded to pay for it. Wouldn't make me competant on its own, I realise. Two or three LABC fees and it's not far off paid for itself. Plus, it's very interesting stuff, although I think I'm a bit long in the tooth to be going for full registration.

No amount of training or certification will get around the issue of notification. Electricians face the same fees and either pay LABC directly or join a scheme such as NICEIC or Napit, through whom they can issue required notification.
 

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