Storage heater not heating up but powered

[DPG]

Yes, mine has a 20A AC limit, most multi meters don't do AC amps at all apart from maybe the mA range. Its a Proster one, had it for years, I cant even read the lables on the dial properly anymore.

My Fluke 85 will do AC and DC up to 10 Amps.

 

[Rockingit]

My Fluke 85 will do AC and DC up to 10 Amps.

Spinal Tap makes one that goes to 11.

 

[oscar21]

This is what I use.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00EYYJRC0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[brianmoooore]

We had it with an immersion heater once, client was adamant that she didn't have any hot water yet the cylinder cupboard was always warm and the multimeter read 12A until you turned the thermostat off. The immersion heater was obviously doing it job, where that heat went though was a job for the plumber to sort.

Had exactly that one once. Cylinder was on the ground floor, and a pipe from the top of it went down through the concrete floor and up again under the kitchen sink about 2 metres away. Pipe had been put in with no thought of expansion, and it had sheared cleanly just where it emerged under the concrete in the airing cupboard. It was cut almost as clean as it would have been with a pipe cutter.

 

[Mark K]

I am an old boy myself - don't recall peeing in it - but then I suppose I wouldn't remember anyway. I see a replacement thermostat is over £80-00 - would it be too dangerous to bypass that -(I can control the onn/off period) - would this be the same as having the thermostat set to full on?

I am an old boy myself - don't recall peeing in it - but then I suppose I wouldn't remember anyway. I see a replacement thermostat is over £80-00 - would it be too dangerous to bypass that -(I can control the onn/off period) - would this be the same as having the thermostat set to full on?

Come to think of it the thermal cut-out is part of the thermostat (I suppose) so bypassing the thermostat probably isn't such a good idea. In the above when I said I can control the on/off period I should have clarified that I have a 20 A timer in the circuit also, because my Economy 7 no longer has a separate switched switched circuit.

 

[Mark K]

You might want to be careful doing that - the last storage heater I had to actually fully replace had gone pop because the old boy had pee'd into it. Yep - you read that right! All the internal insulation blanket was sopping wet with urine. That was not a fun job.

I opened it to look at the thermostat. Cut out not open, zero ohms between red and white wires so should get heat. When first turned on seem to be a bit of heat - checked with laser thermomenter with vent open - a few degrees C above ambient then goes cold. Measured resistance between neutral and thermostat output - Megohms. Can these lement fail in such a way theat they heat up a bit and then go open circuit with just a small rise in temperature? Dimplex DXLN

 

[brianmoooore]

Can these lement fail in such a way theat they heat up a bit and then go open circuit with just a small rise in temperature? Dimplex DXLN

Not impossible, but unless it's the smallest version in the range, there are more than one element connected in parallel, so they would all have to fail to get an open circuit reading OR the wiring between the 'stat and the first element has failed..

 

[Mark K]

Not impossible, but unless it's the smallest version in the range, there are more than one element connected in parallel, so they would all have to fail to get an open circuit reading OR the wiring between the 'stat and the first element has failed..

Oh Dear - measured the resistance between the neutral of the additional day-time convection heater and live of storage section so no wonder I got open circuit! Before I realised this, I opened up the unit and all elements are ok. Just looked at input section and found the attached - well cooked- no voltage across elements - will replace chock connector and cut off burnt bit of cable. Don't know why was getting small amount of heat on switch on before - perhaps thermostat gone as well.

 

[Mark K]

Oh Dear - measured the resistance between the neutral of the additional day-time convection heater and live of storage section so no wonder I got open circuit! Before I realised this, I opened up the unit and all elements are ok. Just looked at input section and found the attached - well cooked- no voltage across elements - will replace chock connector and cut off burnt bit of cable. Don't know why was getting small amount of heat on switch on before - perhaps thermostat gone as well.

Has anyone known mains cable to go open circuit just from overheating. The wires were completely black when I took them out. Put in new ceramic block and it seems to be working ok now. So elements and thrmostat have lasted 20 years with no problems.