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Not a lot to day so yet another question. Got several (about 10) 1.mm lighting cables to join together in a loft space which has about 300mm + loft insulation.
Years ago I would of used a J701 j/box with chocs blocks. Anything better on the market now? Would you guys fix the j/box above the joist level and the remove the insulation so as not on top but still some underneath?
 
I use Wiska boxes and Helleman/Wago connectors. Easy to see what you are doing and very clear. I some times print flag labels off and attach them to the incoming cables (i would with yours if there are 10 cables). I will try and find a picture of one i have done....
 
With that many cables to join i would use a double pattress box and a combination of wago's

I'd never seen Wagos until last weekend. The ones that I saw had 2 x terminations (holes) I think on the box it sais 2.5mm. Would that of meant up to 2.5mm. I'm assuming 1 x terminal 1 x conductor only, as opposed to getting 2 x conductors into 1 terminal. I would want to connect several conductors together,, typically the Live / Neutral conductors not forgetting the CPC's
 
I use Wiska boxes and Helleman/Wago connectors. Easy to see what you are doing and very clear. I some times print flag labels off and attach them to the incoming cables (i would with yours if there are 10 cables). I will try and find a picture of one i have done....

I've already written on them in inedible ink, better than pencil lol. But yes, be great to see what you use.
 
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I usually just write in indelible ink on the outer sheath (if room) for marking cables. If big enough / room

Yep do the same now using fine tip indelible ink. Used to use pencil yrs ago but fades after a while and the eyesight not as good as it was. Even used it on metal boxes whilst fist fixing to remind me what box did what!
 
Why wouldn't it comply? It comes with a small mounting bracket so as not to compromise the IP rating of the box but you can still fix it securely to a surface and the knockouts are rubberised so you can poke cables through. Although they do have internally threaded sections so there is no lock nut required when putting a stuffer in there.
 
Why wouldn't it comply? It comes with a small mounting bracket so as not to compromise the IP rating of the box but you can still fix it securely to a surface and the knockouts are rubberised so you can poke cables through. Although they do have internally threaded sections so there is no lock nut required when putting a stuffer in there.
Yes just saw on their site about the rubberized knockouts, looks good and on you tube re the gland idea. going back to the Wagos, would I need a whole array of different sizes? I'm very comfortable with the choc terms but I'd like to keep up to date if it makes the installation even safer.
PS is that rated at 20amp. Been looking on there site.
 
Why wouldn't it comply? It comes with a small mounting bracket so as not to compromise the IP rating of the box but you can still fix it securely to a surface and the knockouts are rubberised so you can poke cables through. Although they do have internally threaded sections so there is no lock nut required when putting a stuffer in there.

Cables should be securely held in place, by glands or clipping up to the enclosure etc so as not to place strain on the connections should the cable be pulled on or the JB knocked.
It is an inspection item on the EICR
 
Not a lot to day so yet another question. Got several (about 10) 1.mm lighting cables to join together in a loft space which has about 300mm + loft insulation.
Years ago I would of used a J701 j/box with chocs blocks. Anything better on the market now? Would you guys fix the j/box above the joist level and the remove the insulation so as not on top but still some underneath?

Have a look in screwfix
 
Why wouldn't it comply? It comes with a small mounting bracket so as not to compromise the IP rating of the box but you can still fix it securely to a surface and the knockouts are rubberised so you can poke cables through. Although they do have internally threaded sections so there is no lock nut required when putting a stuffer in there.

As Dave has said, in its current form it would not comply as there are no cable grips!
 
ea
sy to use ashly jb 701 + waggo or similar connectors-just make shure the stripped cable has no kinks in it before you do the conn note cable secure with cble ties and slots in box
 
Looks neat, thanks. Basically a few feeds L+N's + a couple of 3 core sw/wires + several cables to lights. Are those boxes pre-wired then? Would that restrict my wiring options as opposed to starting from scratch?
Yes they are pre wired, i have found no restrictions with them. The only downside being that with the short connections on the push fit terminals, if the wires are connected it is hard to tell if one is loose, just takes a little extra checking.
 
As Dave has said, in its current form it would not comply as there are no cable grips!

I clip the cables once the box is secured.

Although i have been guilty of leaving jbs loose(ish) in certain situations. I only use glands with Wiska boxes when they are either on show or in a potentially damp environment. Because i am a tight arse!
 
Good point but I've not come across it

It's crap mate. I used it on a rewire then spent 20 minutes identifying the seperate conductors. At least with standard brn/blu you know which is your switch feed and return.

Nice idea but pointless. I am probably going to end up using it as standard t and e and sleeving one of the browns blue lol
 
It's crap mate. I used it on a rewire then spent 20 minutes identifying the seperate conductors. At least with standard brn/blu you know which is your switch feed and return.

Nice idea but pointless. I am probably going to end up using it as standard t and e and sleeving one of the browns blue lol
why did it take you a long time to find out?

there is writing on the sheath no? top is one bottom is two simples
 
looks to me that too many "sparks" have too much time on their hands inluding me btw
use screwitts mate
:ack2:eek:r replace the cable?
its not rocket science
3 pages about how to join cables in a roof-------
 
Scruits were banned years ago! You haven't been able to get then for years.

It's the even worse American fire nuts that have now appeared over here!

Nah they are back.

Our local electricity center had some in. I hadn't used the EC before and just popped in for a length of MT2 and they tried to sell some to me, i took a freebie and tested it. I couldn't pull the cables out at all but i still wouldnt use them. After i removed the connector it had scored/left a deep thread imprint on the cores.

Not for me i am afraid!

edit: and when i say tested, i mean in the front of my van with 2 " lengths of 2.5 and not on an install!
 
Nah they are back.

Our local electricity center had some in. I hadn't used the EC before and just popped in for a length of MT2 and they tried to sell some to me, i took a freebie and tested it. I couldn't pull the cables out at all but i still wouldnt use them. After i removed the connector it had scored/left a deep thread imprint on the cores.

Not for me i am afraid!

No way are scruits back! The little ceramic thimbles with a thread moulded in to them and available in two sizes, midget and normal.

I'm pretty sure you would have been looking at wire (fire) nuts, the plastic things with a little metal spring inside
 
Nah they are back.

Our local electricity center had some in. I hadn't used the EC before and just popped in for a length of MT2 and they tried to sell some to me, i took a freebie and tested it. I couldn't pull the cables out at all but i still wouldnt use them. After i removed the connector it had scored/left a deep thread imprint on the cores.

Not for me i am afraid!

Bet they aren't the porcelain type, ain't seen dog's for years.
 
No way are scruits back! The little ceramic thimbles with a thread moulded in to them and available in two sizes, midget and normal.

I'm pretty sure you would have been looking at wire (fire) nuts, the plastic things with a little metal spring inside

Nope i was looking at a screwits, red and yellow thimble with a basic metal conical thread inside that you screwed onto the cable!
 
Id use a geewiz box with stuffing glands and connecting block screwed to the inside of it. Then mount it above the insulation so it can be seen by anyone looking for it up there. Marker pen or label machine on the lid to indicate what it does as well.
 
10x1.0mm t&e cables?you were right in post no1
j701 and connectors would be my choice fitted on a board and cables marked and clipped would be all I would do
formerly known as the rb4 the joint box has been around in this form since the 70s
have I ever seen one melted or cables burnt to a crisp? No would be the answer.
 

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