Discuss 5V out from heat pump control panel. in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi,

I'm needing to run a raspberry pi computer board near my boiler. The Pi requires 5v at 2.5A.

My heating system is from NIBE and the control panel a SMO 20.
It does have a USB port on the front for software updates but this doesn't appear to have enough current to power the Pi properly. Sad times.

The manual references auxiliary power but there's no mention of voltage/current ratings.

Do control panels, such as the SMO 20, typically have a means of powering external devices? and if so, what current might they provide?

Thanks,
Nick
 
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It's asking a lot for something like that to have 2.5A spare to use.
 
I think I would be putting a dedicated socket or usb faceplate next to the boiler to power the pi.
It can probably be run from the same spur as the boiler so it all turns off together when isolated.
 
It is noted here that you are DIY, you cannot even entertain removing the cover of the boiler unless you are qualified to do so, the whole confusion about whether even Qualified Electricians were allowed to enter a boiler to connect the electrics ran for a few yrs as we had mixed signals about needing to be Corgi registered to simply remove the cover..

As far as I am aware the position is now and how modern boilers are designed is that a qualified electrician may access what are now drop down panels to connect the electrics which by design leaves all the main cover and gas related access enclosed or with secondary covers, older boilers is a grey area still and technically should be Corgi registered engineers or if connecting one up as a electrician it should be done in the presence of a corgi registered person as crazy as it sounds.

On that note the advice the forum gives is you do not interfere with your boiler regardless of its age, you are not qualified to open up the boiler to access the control board regardless of how competent you may be or feel you are or how simple the task is, therefore we cannot advise you any further on the matter, also you risk all warranties associated with the boiler or any insurance cover that is on you boiler or even indirect insurance like house insurance if say water damage, fire or gas explosion were a result of a boiler fault in any way and it could be shown it had been tampered with or added to, the job of insurance is to not pay out and they will void any claim if you got a Pi tapped off the main control board as it is not a recognised or registered addition.

I therefore will be closing this thread from further comment, please PM me if you have any further questions.
 
Thread reopened... OP has messaged me, this is not a boiler as such as the title would have one believe it is a heat pump control system which puts a totally different spin on things and my response can be ignored.. :)

Thread title has now been updated to avoid similar confusion down the line.
 
I'd still use a 13A socket and power supply. Unless the manufacturer can confirm they have allowed enough power supply headroom for you to take 2.5A for your Pi.
 
I’m going to ask for a sour from the switched power supply to the control unit, with a USB faceplate appropriately rated for the Pi.

Cheers everyone
 
Possibly change the boiler FCU to a double socket with built in USB output and use a 13A plug(top) on the boiler?
 
I've not played with Raspberry Pis in earnest... but 2.5A sounds very high to me... I thought demand in Pi projects was often measured in mA ?... although I obviously have no idea what you're doing with it.
 
I think it's a guide figure, and is on the high side. I've got mine sat running as a Vic 20 at the minute, if I get chance I'll see what it's drawing.
 
For anyone interested in the Pi, i’m using it as a wifi bridge to my router so that the NIBE SMO20, which is the control panel for the heat pump, because I cant get an ethernet cable from the SMO to my router.

Following the guide here linky I can now connect SMO to Pi via ethernet, and the Pi will send the data over wifi to the router.

This allows me to access the NIBE Uplink features, although, now i’ve done that I’m not not entirely sure of the benefit ?
 
Got a link? Can't see anything at Screwfix or Toolstation.

The most imaginative FCU's appear to be is an FCU with a switch AND a cable hole!..

Sorry, I was meaning replacing the FCU with a socket
 

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