Discuss DIY 16mm2 IP65 Junction box problem in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Solar2020

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DIY poster : Hello, I am trying to connect two 16mm2 wires together in an ip65 junction box, but the holes are not big enough for the both the wires to push into. I am looking for a junction box that can join two 16mm2 wires. I have tried googling , even ordered things I though would work, but did not...so i am now asking here. In context :

I have a home 1.2kw/24v Solar setup. The two wires I want to join , go from my 450ah Battery Bank to my 800w Victron Inverter, to the left in the photo below. I have included a photo of an ip65 junction box with two wires joining together to demonstrate what I mean.

Thank you in advance for your help
 

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Also if you are using fine stranded conductors you really should use bootlace ferrules to keep the strands together and in the clamp action of the screw. Something like:

Crimp tools can be expensive, and you probably won't need it that often, so an eBay special might be your best bet. Used:

New:
 
Thank you for all the advice, I am trying to avoid crimping as I keep having to upgrade components, ever since I started my solar journey, but thank you for the advice relating to the bootlace ferrule, I had never seen those before.

I just had a look at the non fused terminal blocks and see they do a 16mm2 which is great and looks like it will join the two cables. So if I terminate the two cables into this , it will physically join the two?


Thank you for your help
 
I think that particular block takes 2x 16-35mm² and 4x 6-16mm². There is a smaller version that does 2.5-6 and 6-16. RS stock a number of permutations of equal and unequal terminal sizes.
 
I think that particular block takes 2x 16-35mm² and 4x 6-16mm². There is a smaller version that does 2.5-6 and 6-16. RS stock a number of permutations of equal and unequal terminal sizes.

Hi Lucien, thank you for your help. I am not being lazy, rather frustrated and buying and returning things I think would work : would you be able to provide a link to what should work?
I think that particular block takes 2x 16-35mm² and 4x 6-16mm². There is a smaller version that does 2.5-6 and 6-16. RS stock a number of permutations of equal and unequal terminal sizes.
I think that particular block takes 2x 16-35mm² and 4x 6-16mm². There is a smaller version that does 2.5-6 and 6-16. RS stock a number of permutations of equal and unequal terminal sizes.

Hi Lucien, thank you for your help. I am not being lazy, rather frustrated and buying and returning things I think would work and they don't :) : would you be able to provide a link to what should work?
 
The solutions you are looking at @Solar2020 would require a crimp to be fitted if we were to follow regulations, because you are terminating fine-wire/tri rated style cables you need to ensure good termination.
Unless you can find a suitable connector that is suited to direct termination of this type of cable you should be crimping on lugs, ferrules etc to suit the termination method.

I can only assume the large cable size reflects the current that it needs to handle and I for one wouldn't cut corners on terminating the cable correctly.

I would suggest these be more suited but you will need to buy the terminal specific end cap and also get a pack of din terminal end stops of any brand.


No crimps, no crimping tool and a good sound termination.
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@Solar2020 - I added a late edit onto the post, see the link, note you best get a suitable enclosure with din rail or one you can fit one in that has the room, note these are top entry terminals in the link so be careful about ensuring you have room in the enclosure.
 
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The solutions you are looking at @Solar2020 would require a crimp to be fitted if we were to follow regulations, because you are terminating fine-wire/tri rated style cables you need to ensure good termination.
Unless you can find a suitable connector that is suited to direct termination of this type of cable you should be crimping on lugs, ferrules etc to suit the termination method.

I can only assume the large cable size reflects the current that it needs to handle and I for one wouldn't cut corners on terminating the cable correctly.

I would suggest these be more suited but you will need to buy the specific end cap and get a pack of din terminal end stops of any brand.


No crimps, no crimping tool and a good sound termination.

Hi Darkwood, thank you for your reply. I agree good termination is essential, no cutting corners here, i believe in safety. I am hopefully going to find a direct termination connector, if not, I will have to purchase a crimping tool and associated accessories
[automerge]1591199384[/automerge]
I would suggest these be more suited but you will need to buy the terminal specific end cap and also get a pack of din terminal end stops of any brand.


No crimps, no crimping tool and a good sound termination.
[/QUOTE]
Thank you for the link, that is very helpful
[automerge]1591200545[/automerge]
Thank you for all the replies, i am going to take Darkwood's suggestion and purchase this


I will find some sort of din rail and enclosure to house it all
 
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There are several brands of DIN rail terminals, my usual choice is this series and it might work out cheaper (also side-entry):

You also get jumpers to link them (so a pair of 2-entry terminals becomes a 4-entry terminal, 3 become 6, etc) and you get (more expensive) earth terminal versions that are designed to clamp to the metal support rail as a means of connecting CPC/earth wires to the metal chassis, etc.

The earth ones also double-up as end stops!
 
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@Solar2020 - note you need a terminal end cap or divider on the connectors to cover the exposed live side, I looked at accessories and it doesn't show them, ask for them when you order and also get some end stops to keep the terminals fixed in position.

RS website is lacking when it comes to accessories like this but they will sell them, it is just a matter of finding them and making sure they are the right ones for that terminal connector.
 
FWIW I use a lot of the Italian-style commoning terminals as linked by the OP in post #5. Obviously they do not make as substantial a connection as a hex-crimped copper-tube ring terminal on a brass stud, but the screws fit well and can be tightened very securely and the terminal body is a substantial piece of N/P brass. Whether they are officially approved for fine-stranded conductors without ferruling is moot, the data sheet implies they are and I would use them as such in a pinch, but would be happier with a ferrule.

TBH, a bog-standard Henley block with the advantage of double-screws might fit the bill if the box is big enough. Actually, does it even need the box?

RS website is lacking when it comes to accessories like this

Spot on! You know they are there somewhere, but can you find them? Was better in the days of the paper catalogues with a human editor. The website search engine doesn't have much product knowledge!
 
My link was just a quick search so as others have posted alternatives at cheaper cost it is down to you @Solar2020 which you go for, I tend to keep away from terminals with fine stranded cables unless they are ferruled up, the wires have a tendency to sometimes ride up the sides of the grub screw with poor contact and/or getting cut by the thread hence the regulations, this risk is eliminated with cage clamps methods as long as the manufacturer specifies they are suited to undressed connections.
 
Yes, line taps too. As DW explains there is a risk in many types of terminal of the screw either not clamping all the strands of a fine-stranded conductor, or shearing them off, but the Legrand line taps in this size range (not sure about the Sigma ones) have a non-rotating clamping plate that is very gentle on the conductor and the strands cannot escape up the side, so I'd be happy with that I think.
 
@Lucien Nunes - been seasoned in this line of work means we can judge it for ourselves and know a good connection when we see one, I was however eliminating the chances of a poor termination where possible as the OP is DIY (and looking at his original picture too) and will not be able to make these judgements and as he didn't want the expense of a crimping tool I saw this as a good alternative to terminal screws.

PS never used line taps myself so I'll go with the flow on your advice on that.
 

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