T
TheoJones
I'm fitting a number of GU10 down lights and am having a problem with the earth conductor - these units have a cheap nasty terminal block with all three connectors presented - L/N down to the usual moulded GU10 plug, no worries there.
The earth is riveted onto the side of the downlight itself with a super short length of the world's most brittle conductor...
I am using the line products JBs with Wago 224s for the wiring, which is a doddle for the live and neutral - but connecting these stubby little earth wires is a complete PITA and pulls the JB close to the fitting. I'm concerned that the normal movement of replacing bulbs will snap them.
The question - the downlights themselves are marked as double insulated, and the little installation leaflet in each box say they are double insulated (everyone reads those, right?)... but the damn things have an earth wire presented...
My "do it right" head is saying, double insulation label is wrong, in a fault condition, the metal parts of the downlight might become live, so cpc needs to be connected to the fitting... my "get it done" head is saying - take the label at face value, double insulated means what it says on the tin, chop the ambiguous earth cable, loop the cpc in the junction box and have a cleaner install from a mechanical point of view.
Thoughts please?
The earth is riveted onto the side of the downlight itself with a super short length of the world's most brittle conductor...
I am using the line products JBs with Wago 224s for the wiring, which is a doddle for the live and neutral - but connecting these stubby little earth wires is a complete PITA and pulls the JB close to the fitting. I'm concerned that the normal movement of replacing bulbs will snap them.
The question - the downlights themselves are marked as double insulated, and the little installation leaflet in each box say they are double insulated (everyone reads those, right?)... but the damn things have an earth wire presented...
My "do it right" head is saying, double insulation label is wrong, in a fault condition, the metal parts of the downlight might become live, so cpc needs to be connected to the fitting... my "get it done" head is saying - take the label at face value, double insulated means what it says on the tin, chop the ambiguous earth cable, loop the cpc in the junction box and have a cleaner install from a mechanical point of view.
Thoughts please?