Discuss Grid switches in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

what could be easier a supply to a grid, link your lives and then terminate into an un switched socket, simple all switching done in the same place!

This now makes sense, ill have to have a look at the back of one at some point...

A separate 20a radial sounds good to me! At this rate ill have two or three fuseboards haha
 
You wire a 20a double pole to each under counter socket for each appliance off the ring, marked up on switch what they're for, i don't see why people on this thread have a problem with this? I also wouldn't go cutting the plugs off appliances to wire them straight in as it will invalidate the warranty
 
Just a quick note. Just moved into a new build house. Dishwasher, washing machine and fridge on 20A dp grid switches with spurs behind the said appliances. Oh, and the grids are off the kitchen ring.
 
I just don't understand why Fused Connection Units are there for the appliances under the units to connect to, whats wrong with an unswitched single socket and the appliances with plug tops on them, surely cutting off plug tops and connecting to FCUs will void the warrenty on appliances? Just my view, however headache now appearing :6:
 
You wire a 20a double pole to each under counter socket for each appliance off the ring, marked up on switch what they're for, i don't see why people on this thread have a problem with this? I also wouldn't go cutting the plugs off appliances to wire them straight in as it will invalidate the warranty

IT WILL NOT INVALIDATE ANY WARRANTY, ...Jesus how many more times!!!
 
First. I'll warn you, I'm half cut, so if admin take the huff, then oh well, I'll deal with that tomorrow !
Right, tell me, the posters above me, are any of you sparks ? Running a spur, through a 20a DP switch UNFUSED ! I've done something similar to this once, when I was an apprentice, even then I had the (half) sense to use a 32a dp switch !
Next, running a 6mm for a grid bank, again with no fuses, either means a low load with about a 150m run, or you haven't a clue ! If it's the second one, do yourself a favour, get yourself a QUALIFIED sparkie in !

Well, i consider myself as suitably qualified, so i'll answer your post accordingly...lol!!

What's different about taking a spur off a ring circuit to a single/double socket to using an unfused 20A grid switch?? Also none of these appliances would be subject to overload conditions.

Using two 4mm and certainly two 6mm into a multi grid switch arrangement is a non-starter as far as i'm concerned, just not enough space and switch terminals too small to safely accommodate these cable sizes.

I'm not a lover of this grid switch system, though i do see it has it's uses. I prefer to see switched FCU above worktop and an unfused, unswitched outlet below.
 
IT DOES AND IT WILL!! I've had first hand experience of this by chopping a moulded plug off a boiler, wiring it into an fcu and then when it broke it wasn't covered under warranty cos the plug was cut off!!!

Absolute Rubbish!! You actually let them get away with that gem did you?? Any connection to the mains supply that complies with BS7671 cannot invalidate a warranty....

I agree. The service agents will not touch it.

Then more fool you, for letting the service agent fob you off. Cutting a moulded plug off an appliance (Any Appliance) does NOT invalidate the warranty ...End Of!!! Check with your solicitor if you don't believe me!!!
 
Absolute Rubbish!! You actually let them get away with that gem did you?? Any connection to the mains supply that complies with BS7671 cannot invalidate a warranty....



Then more fool you, for letting the service agent fob you off. Cutting a moulded plug off an appliance (Any Appliance) does NOT invalidate the warranty ...End Of!!! Check with your solicitor if you don't believe me!!!

Come on get real, if the plug gets damaged then of course the company will send one of its own engineers to change it as otherwise the warranty will be invalid :rolleyes2:
 
Think about it chaps,you can demonstrate your competence to the assessor or 2391 examiner for dozens of tasks but you fold justifying it to a tech/sales phone jockey at ACME fridge-makers ltd? Use the force...
 
Think about it chaps,you can demonstrate your competence to the assessor or 2391 examiner for dozens of tasks but you fold justifying it to a tech/sales phone jockey at ACME fridge-makers ltd? Use the force...

If you cant justify your actions to a call center then I think you seriously need to consider a new career if you are a electrician.
 
Being a qualified spark gives us our own rights and if you read the documentation with your appliances most state they are not covered of plugs are removed but no court would ever let them off with cancelling the gaurentee if the work is done by a qualified person. As for the fact I had not actually seen the grid type fuse holder does not mean I am any less of an electrician so don't judge me on that and the reason I personally use 20A flex connectors behind the appliances and not an unswitched socked is because I hate the idea of having to remove the appliance when the fuse in the plug blows as for plugs in adjacent cupboards unless your going to place them at the front of the cupboard is it really that easy to access it to change the fuse there either its a personal preference only and is still ok with the regs
 
Absolute Rubbish!! You actually let them get away with that gem did you?? Any connection to the mains supply that complies with BS7671 cannot invalidate a warranty....



Then more fool you, for letting the service agent fob you off. Cutting a moulded plug off an appliance (Any Appliance) does NOT invalidate the warranty ...End Of!!! Check with your solicitor if you don't believe me!!!
Its NOT rubbish!! It happened end of! Anyway beings as its just a simple matter of fitting a socket under the counter supplied by a 20a dp switch above its just easier to leave the plug on and that way if someone wants to change a faulty appliance they just have to unplug it and plug a new one in instead of getting an electrician in for such a simple task! Or if it breaks and a service engineer comes out to fix it and see's the plug has been lopped and uses it as a reason to say the warranty is invalid because of it, it will cause the customer grief, you grief and lead to speaking to solicitors as you say to get it sorted!! Also if someone goes out and spends £400 on a new appliance and you just come round and lop the plug off in front of them how do you think they'd feel? I agree for convenience it would be easier if the fuse blew to have it above the worktop to change but be honest how often does a fuse blow in these things unless theres a problem with it anyway? I've been doing it my way for years, its been like it in every house i've lived in and i think fused spurs everywhere above the worktop looks so ugly in a kitchen, its looks much better to use grid 20a switch or normal 20a switches with the appliance name on the switch, i'll keep to doing it this way i think!
 
Monkey read your regs a 20a dp switch leading to a spur is not following the bible it has to be fused down to 13a either with a 13a sf or a 20a grid and 13a fuse so want it or not you still have fuses above the work top so seems crazy to have a second fuse under the work top I have a funny feeling we may see a more definite direction of this in the regs soon to clarify it better as to what is expected until then we do what we feel is right
 
Monkey read your regs a 20a dp switch leading to a spur is not following the bible it has to be fused down to 13a either with a 13a sf or a 20a grid and 13a fuse so want it or not you still have fuses above the work top so seems crazy to have a second fuse under the work top I have a funny feeling we may see a more definite direction of this in the regs soon to clarify it better as to what is expected until then we do what we feel is right
Having a 20A dp switch is no different to just having a socket spurred off the ring surely? Its not going to be pulling 20 amps down it as its one 13a socket, where in the regs does it say that? And you've contradicted yourself because you've put that you can't have a 20a dp switch leading to a spur but you can have a 20a grid switch so which is it?
 
When was the last time anyone had a fuse blow on an appliance, replaced the fuse and it carried on working? The machine blew the fuse for a reason so chances are it has had its day or there is a serious fault requiring an engineer of some sort.
 

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