S

Sam3006

Hi,

Having a new kitchen fitted and was hoping for some advice please. How many LED downlights do I need? Will likely be using these linked below (9W, 450lm, 120° beam)


I've attached two photos of my floor plan, one blank and one with what I was thinking (red dots would be downlights and blue line would be a light bar with two smaller tiltable downlights above the sink).

Any advice is much appriciated!

Thanks
Sam

CamScanner 01-24-2022 22.51_1.jpg


Screenshot_20220124-225621_Gallery.jpg
 
There’s no right or wrong way really, and it totally depends on the kitchen units.

Personally, I start with measuring 700mm from each wall. That way, there’s some light on the floor, and some on the worktop. (The worktop being 600 from wall)
Wall units only stick out 300mm, so they won’t cast a shadow if lights are far enough in front.
However, full height larder cabinets, oven housing units and fridge freezers will be 600 from the wall all the way up, so you don’t want to lighting up just the top of one of them.

What you have drawn will probably do, but I don’t know what the item is in top corner next to door…. As mentioned, if it’s a tall item, the light will be wasted.
 
looks about right from here. if the unit (top right LED) is just a base unut and not a tall thing like a larder cupboard.
 
No one has yet mentioned your choice of light fitting. These are integrated fittings from a brand that doesn't have the greatest reputation, and aren't cheap. They also require a hole in the ceiling greater than most.
What happens when one fails? I wouldn't bet on being able to get an identical replacement in a couple of years time.
 
personally i'd always use fittings that required a 70mm hole. that's the most popular size and alternative makes will fit.
 
About 6-800mm from walls and around 1000mm apart in a kitchen in my opinion.

Don’t use Lap. Use something decent. Ansell, Collingwood, JCC etc etc
 
Good point thanks, I've been looking at alternatives. Currently dealing with 14 (!) downlights in the kitchen at the moment so just want to get some which will have a decent beam angle and cut it down at least half the amount of lights
 
I'd definitely be fitting lights underneath the wall units too... to provide 'task lighting'. And is that a blank wall that's 2.6m long ? Maybe bounce light off of that ? Eyeball downlight ?

(I should confess that I'm not a lover of the downlight... on my list underneath pull cords, grid switches and non-Appleby plasterboard boxes)
 
I'd definitely be fitting lights underneath the wall units too... to provide 'task lighting'. And is that a blank wall that's 2.6m long ? Maybe bounce light off of that ? Eyeball downlight ?

(I should confess that I'm not a lover of the downlight... on my list underneath pull cords, grid switches and non-Appleby plasterboard boxes)
Yep blank wall on the right apart from a radiator at some point. Only two wall units, due to the windows so I've decided against under unit lights
 
Yep blank wall on the right apart from a radiator at some point. Only two wall units, due to the windows so I've decided against under unit lights
So I'd defo be bouncing light off of that...

Lighting design is a complex topic, you can actually do a degree in the subject it's that complex. I only know the basic principles, but when you see a room that's been lit properly... it makes a hell of a difference.
 
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when you see a room that's been lit properly... it makes a hell of a difference.
I'm old school and would stick in 2-3 LED baton lights of the ~50W rating. But I don't get asked for opinions on style very often...
 
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250watt metal halide flood centre of ceiling. that will do .
 
I read somewhere about every 1.2m and agree normally about 700 from walls..
 
I read somewhere about every 1.2m and agree normally about 700 from walls..
I use 1.2m spacings for a 36deg beam, 2.4m high ceiling as the beams will overlap on a standard 910mm worktop so no dark spots! Obviously different beam angles, ceiling heights will warrant different spacings to achieve overlapping beams and no dark spots.
 
LAP...NO, Integrated NO.....
 
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Put the fittings where they will give you the light where you need it. Don't follow the herd principle of nice symetrical lines, you'll regret it when you are working in your own light!
 

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How many downlights in the kitchen?
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