Discuss Made me jump! in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

The wring that originally went with those insulators on the wall bracket would have needed an earth wire exactly like the one in your pic.
I removed the last traces of ours when I re roofed and upgraded the porch last summer.
The earth wire would have gone into a rectangular Bakelite box mounted where your BT master is now.
Good knowledge. Thank you!
 
Forgot to say...was ripping out a built in book case and had a nice surprise... Was puzzled where the socket was being fed from ??
20210727_140310.jpg
 
Any recommendations for a slow to start pendant? Roughly 1 second delay between flicking switch and bulb illuminating.

Thus far have tried:
1) changed the light fitting to a basic one bulb MK pendant set for testing purposes
2) changed the light switch
3) changed the wiring from switch to light

For reference it's wired at the switch with a separate neutral loop going from pendant to pendant and a live & earth loop going from switch to switch. Pendants in adjacent room illuminate instantly.
 
If you swap the bulbs around, does the “slow” one alway be in that room, or does it move to the one you swapped?
You've inadvertently solved it in a way (plus I'm an idiot).

I wasn't doing a fair test. When I've turned them all on from cold, they were all slow to start. Previously I was flicking the "working" ones on/off from a prior on position. Suspect they are cheap LED bulbs
20210730_102338.jpg
 
You've inadvertently solved it in a way (plus I'm an idiot).

I wasn't doing a fair test. When I've turned them all on from cold, they were all slow to start. Previously I was flicking the "working" ones on/off from a prior on position. Suspect they are cheap LED bulbsView attachment 88122

Sometimes it's the simplest things!
 
When I've turned them all on from cold, they were all slow to start. Previously I was flicking the "working" ones on/off from a prior on position. Suspect they are cheap LED bulbs
That sounds more like CFL than LED (due to the the "warm" bit). Probably worth investing in a new set of decent LED lamps to fit them, though different brand LEDs can show a slight difference in switch-on times they are usually in the small fractional second region.

When looking for LED bulbs decide if you want the warm or cool light, I usually would suggest warm unless you have them for work areas, etc.
 
That sounds more like CFL than LED (due to the the "warm" bit). Probably worth investing in a new set of decent LED lamps to fit them, though different brand LEDs can show a slight difference in switch-on times they are usually in the small fractional second region.

When looking for LED bulbs decide if you want the warm or cool light, I usually would suggest warm unless you have them for work areas, etc.
It's definitely on the to do list. I'm currently just using what's in the house and focusing on the first fix. Second fix will be quality parts, mostly Philips Hue bulbs which actually brings me onto a question:

I've had great experience using these bulbs with a normal 1-way switch and dimming via the app. Was wondering how smart these bulbs are with a dimmable switch i.e. if the switch is on 10% power, is there any awareness on the bulb and thus the app so that you don't under or over dim via the app additionally?
 
If these are CFLs and you bought them as LED, then you have been well and truly done.
These will use twice as much electricity for a given amount of light output than a LED lamp.
 
It's definitely on the to do list. I'm currently just using what's in the house and focusing on the first fix. Second fix will be quality parts, mostly Philips Hue bulbs which actually brings me onto a question:

I've had great experience using these bulbs with a normal 1-way switch and dimming via the app. Was wondering how smart these bulbs are with a dimmable switch i.e. if the switch is on 10% power, is there any awareness on the bulb and thus the app so that you don't under or over dim via the app additionally?
Hue bulbs need 230v to operate, so you can’t use a dimming switch with them.
Saying that, they might operate within a range of voltage, ie 100-230…. But I wouldn’t advise it.
 
Hue bulbs need 230v to operate, so you can’t use a dimming switch with them.
Saying that, they might operate within a range of voltage, ie 100-230…. But I wouldn’t advise it.
Had a feeling it wouldn't be easy. That coupled with the issues finding GU10 cages that fit the hue bulbs I think I'll have to drop that bulb idea as would prefer hard wired dimmers than relying on an app
 
It's definitely on the to do list. I'm currently just using what's in the house and focusing on the first fix. Second fix will be quality parts, mostly Philips Hue bulbs which actually brings me onto a question:

I've had great experience using these bulbs with a normal 1-way switch and dimming via the app. Was wondering how smart these bulbs are with a dimmable switch i.e. if the switch is on 10% power, is there any awareness on the bulb and thus the app so that you don't under or over dim via the app additionally?
You could use the Phillips Hue smart button which is wireless, and can be used to dim Hue bulbs.
 

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