If your 'mate' has done you a condition report he should of listed all the defects and codedthem as c1,c2,c3 or further investigation required. Any c1 or c2 would require work to give you a satisfactory certificate, c3 or FI can be left as is and your installation would comply.

with regards to your breakers, why not just swap those cb's for rcbo's and save yourself a fortune, MG still manufacture those and are readily available. Although I'd suggest you get advice on which size breakers you can use, as 6mm t&e clipped direct cannot be placed on a 50a cb/Rcbo let alone 60a

he has been yesterday and will be back on thursday to complete any paperwork he asked me to do the things like put shower on rcd and lights in bathroom and put a 10mm cable in for the shower while i was carrying out any upgrades and then would complete the condition report.

need to check the o.s.g for the correct reference method and then work out volt drop and make sure the In Ib and design current are correct and suitable for the shower installed it is clipped to the wall and goes straight into the loft accross a beam and down into a double pole switch maximum is 7m

do you think i should put both the socket ring finals on rcbos too? and the bathroom lighting c.b. too (or can i leave that as i was planning on fitting selv lighting in there anyway, guys can anyone help me what are the best fans for bathrooms where the shower is obviously causing alot of damp within the bathroom here have a look i was thinking maybe an inline fan but alot of people say they are rubbish

 
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with regards to your breakers, why not just swap those cb's for rcbo's and save yourself a fortune, MG still manufacture those and are readily available. Although I'd suggest you get advice on which size breakers you can use, as 6mm t&e clipped direct cannot be placed on a 50a cb/Rcbo let alone 60a

Think you'll find that MG RCBO's are on the expensive side. ..lol!! Those 60A breakers are sitting on 10mm cables if i'm not mistaken!!
 
Think you'll find that MG RCBO's are on the expensive side. ..lol!! Those 60A breakers are sitting on 10mm cables if i'm not mistaken!!

im looking the biggest ones i can find are 50A RCBO MG, can you tell me for RCBO do you need seperate nuetral bars like you do on an split twin rcd c.u
 
Have to put what power rating your shower is, in past posts & ive just missed it?? im having an off day...
 
im looking the biggest ones i can find are 50A RCBO MG, can you tell me for RCBO do you need seperate nuetral bars like you do on an split twin rcd c.u

guys i have just spoke to my local supplier nbelectrical who have informed me that the highest rcbo that they supply is 45A wylex they dont have any 50A RCBOs so it doesnt look like there would be any other options, as no 1 c.b is 60A supplying a two bedroom house basically i would want that replacement minimum again, considering it has an electric hob with another 6mm cable. the main house electric hob on the cooker 6.0mm has been connected to a fuse spur for the ignition an the gas hob but cable been left in all the way to the d.p switch
 
From these 2 queries, are you sure you are competent to be doing this? Just a question, not having a go. Daz

* "on rcbos too? and the bathroom lighting c.b. too (can i leave that as i was planning on fitting selv lighting in there anyway?"
* "can you tell me for RCBO do you need seperate nuetral bars like you do on an split twin rcd c.u"
 
quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by DPG
What's the second cable going in to that 1st breaker? Daz




it is a feed for the small consumer unit to the right of the main c.u, which is responsible for the ring, that feeds the outside floodlights


so 60A breaker protects 2.5mm2 cable? No good is there, stick in 16A or 20a breaker
 
From these 2 queries, are you sure you are competent to be doing this? Just a question, not having a go. Daz

* "on rcbos too? and the bathroom lighting c.b. too (can i leave that as i was planning on fitting selv lighting in there anyway?"
* "can you tell me for RCBO do you need seperate nuetral bars like you do on an split twin rcd c.u"

well the rcbo has its own n out so i guess the answer is no you dont (but come on we do all have moments and this is my second year doing electrical i am a formulation chemist by qualification
 
8.5kw 7 meter away from c.u clipped direct to the wall up onto wooden beam into d.p

So why are you trying to fit a 50A or higher MCB/RCBO?
 
So why are you trying to fit a 50A or higher MCB/RCBO?
a 45A would be adequate for now but i would in the future like to upgrade the shower to a 10.5kw but if i was going to upgrade the lot now i would put a 10mm cable in and change the pull down d.p to a wall mounted one and also get the correct breaker from the initial installation
 
So why are you trying to fit a 50A or higher MCB/RCBO?
6mm 47A clipped direct and then voltage drop wouldnt have an advers affect over that distance, so a 45A c.b would be acceptable
8500/230=36.96A so 37A maximum current flowing
on 10.5kw/230=45.65A
10mm cable clipped direct 2c0re 63A 3core is 57A
 
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I dont mean this in a sarcastic way, but what is the fascination with people wanting to get a bigger and bigger showers. What is wrong with a 8.5kw?
 
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6mm 47A clipped direct and then voltage drop wouldnt have an advers affect over that distance, so a 45A c.b would be acceptable

Until you want to upgrade your shower to 10.5kw.
 
I dont mean this in a sarcastic way, but what is the fascination with people wanting to get a bigger and bigger showers. What is wrong with a 8.5kw?

Why anyone would ever need a 10.5KW shower, i will never know!! I'm using a 4.2KW shower over here and it's more than just adequate for a good hot shower!!
 
Why anyone would ever need a 10.5KW shower, i will never know!! I'm using a 4.2KW shower over here and it's more than just adequate for a good hot shower!!

Maybe they want to re-enact a scene from Rambo, when he is in the police station...
 
Bet they don't sell many 10.5KW showers in France, where it seems the average domestic supply is limited to 12KVA!! ...lol!! ....It's only the daft British that want to be one better than the Jones next door!!! lol!!
 
OP: Id be more concerned about the 2.5mm cable going to MCB 1 (60A) for the outside lights than the shower cable.
 
OP: Id be more concerned about the 2.5mm cable going to MCB 1 (60A) for the outside lights than the shower cable.

That cable can be slipped into the downstairs lighting Breaker. Obviously installed by a DIY'er that one!! lol!!
 
I think you need to stop, look hard and plan before you do anything.

And get your "mate" involved, if he exists, because if he does, he and not us is the best person to advise you.
 
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OP: Id be more concerned about the 2.5mm cable going to MCB 1 (60A) for the outside lights than the shower cable.

He doesn't seem too bothered by this - not sure why? Any thoughts OP? Daz
 
OP: Id be more concerned about the 2.5mm cable going to MCB 1 (60A) for the outside lights than the shower cable.
i know this should be on its own 6A breaker cant see the floodlights drawing 60A if they are 160W thats pretty easy fix could easily go into lighting circuit with main bedroom as not in use at moment anyway and also wont probably have a large load when in use
 
I think you need to stop, look hard and plan before you do anything.

And get your "mate" involved, if he exists, because if he does, he and not us is the best person to advise you.

you know what the sad thing about this forum is... you come on for help, because you are unsure and you are learning and you want others opinions, i have got two mates who have offered one is napit and the other is niceic, it would have been good to have got other opinions of well qualified experienced individuals who dont have there head up there own a**. think about when you started you didnt know everything, you were helped along and you were thrown in the deep end, its a shame that people encourage one another with unsupportive and horrible comments like this. if you dont want to input please move on and let the people who do have a passion for what they do, have there input
 
He doesn't seem too bothered by this - not sure why? Any thoughts OP? Daz
it is stuff like this that is picked up that i can say hang about what about this, everyones input makes a difference and does help
 
you know what the sad thing about this forum is... you come on for help because you unsure you learning and you want guidance, i have got two mates who have offered one is napit and the other is niceic, it would have been good to have got other opinions of well qualified experienced individuals who didnt have there head up there own a**. you know think about when you started you didnt know everything you were helped along and you were thrown in the deep end, its a shame that people encourage one another with unsupportive and horrible comments like this. if you dont want to input please move on and let the people who do have a passion for what they do enjoy helping others.

think you have had a lot of helpful comments here. still waiting for you to let us know if there were any C1s or C2s on your napit mate's EICR. murdoch's post reflects this. if you have an EICR, then why not let us know the outcome?
 
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think you have had a lot of helpful comments here. still waiting for you to let us know if there were any C1s or C2s on your napit mate's EICR. murdoch's post reflects this. if you have an EICR, then why not let us know the outcome?

as soon as i have a copy of the report il photograph it and put it up, should be tomorrow was not given it at the time as was told that if i didnt make the changes it would be down on the report as recommendations and hence would not pass and achieve certification to show as being safe and upto current standards, was also advised that sockets needed to be on rcd. was told to make changes, including a new consumer unit and then have the report completed. so when i was asked that is there are any c1 or c2 i phoned my mate anthony who told me installing the rcd would be a c3 and updating the consumer unit and installing the ip65 lights would also be c3. il have to wait and see now
 
the lack of RCDs is only a code C3 unless outdoors, as a C3 that means improvement recommended, a bit like an advise on your MOT. does not mean that the installation is unfit for continued use.
 
you know what the sad thing about this forum is... you come on for help, because you are unsure and you are learning and you want others opinions, i have got two mates who have offered one is napit and the other is niceic, it would have been good to have got other opinions of well qualified experienced individuals who dont have there head up there own a**. think about when you started you didnt know everything, you were helped along and you were thrown in the deep end, its a shame that people encourage one another with unsupportive and horrible comments like this. if you dont want to input please move on and let the people who do have a passion for what they do, have there input

Yup, and I've got a mate who's got 25 years more than me and I still use him, and he uses me for advice - and where necessary we visit each others "jobs" so we can actually look at the jobs first hand.
 
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you know what the sad thing about this forum is... you come on for help.........................sion for what they do, have there input

Get a 'Satisfactory' EICR (ie no C1s or C2s) off your two mates, give it to your mortgage provider, get your £20K off their grubby little hands, then work on your installation at your leisure!!!
It's your own house and you're a Trainee Electrician, aware of any risks, go for it!
 
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as for inline fans.....................
crack on mate, so long as you get a large air change rate they work wonderful, dont get wickes own inline as thats just about 45l/m whereas you can splash out and get a full on 140/160 l/m fan that will suck the water straight out the shower and out thru the fan before it even touches you lol.

people do tend to get pedantic on this site, but you have had some good advice, when you get your eicr, look thru it do the required work and for now ignore any C3's, get your dosh from el banko.
encourage your mates to show you or help you to understand where the faults are at the moment.
people on here can only speculate as to the best way forward, but your mates can give you proper informed advice
 
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I thought i gave you good advice for the time i am prepared to spend on this and was before you mentioned anything about your knowledge or aspirations, good luck.
 
the lack of RCDs is only a code C3 unless outdoors, as a C3 that means improvement recommended, a bit like an advise on your MOT. does not mean that the installation is unfit for continued use.

thanks, i have spoken to my mate and he is saying the shower not being on rcd and the sockets not being on rcd are definately c3. advice is obviously appreciated, thanks your right it does not make it unfit for continued use
 
Yup, and I've got a mate who's got 25 years more than me and I still use him, and he uses me for advice - and where necessary we visit each others "jobs" so we can actually look at the jobs first hand.

i will be asking my mates for help and they will be helping me, with whatever work is carried out, but i do appreciate they have there own work and commitments too hence why i am trying to get all the help i can with this
 
i will be asking my mates for help and they will be helping me, with whatever work is carried out, but i do appreciate they have there own work and commitments too hence why i am trying to get all the help i can with this

We are able to give general advice BUT only seeing a job makes the advice "constructive"
 
Get a 'Satisfactory' EICR (ie no C1s or C2s) off your two mates, give it to your mortgage provider, get your £20K off their grubby little hands, then work on your installation at your leisure!!!
It's your own house and you're a Trainee Electrician, aware of any risks, go for it!

i will be carefull and carry out work under safe isolation and following the best practice possible. i am also going to eventually get all the work done to a good standard inline with current regs but for now the main priority is getting it safe for family and identifying any potential problems
 
as for inline fans.....................
crack on mate, so long as you get a large air change rate they work wonderful, dont get wickes own inline as thats just about 45l/m whereas you can splash out and get a full on 140/160 l/m fan that will suck the water straight out the shower and out thru the fan before it even touches you lol.

people do tend to get pedantic on this site, but you have had some good advice, when you get your eicr, look thru it do the required work and for now ignore any C3's, get your dosh from el banko.
encourage your mates to show you or help you to understand where the faults are at the moment.
people on here can only speculate as to the best way forward, but your mates can give you proper informed advice

thanks for the information on the fans now i know what i am looking for i can just buy something decent straight away. i have had some excellent advice and appreciate everyones input murdoch without a doubt is right that friends are there to be asked and to get help from, i do really appreciate every persons input and am very great full i will keep this post up to date and let you know of any changes that are made to make the installation safer
 
as for inline fans.....................
crack on mate, so long as you get a large air change rate they work wonderful, dont get wickes own inline as thats just about 45l/m whereas you can splash out and get a full on 140/160 l/m fan that will suck the water straight out the shower and out thru the fan before it even touches you lol.

people do tend to get pedantic on this site, but you have had some good advice, when you get your eicr, look thru it do the required work and for now ignore any C3's, get your dosh from el banko.
encourage your mates to show you or help you to understand where the faults are at the moment.
people on here can only speculate as to the best way forward, but your mates can give you proper informed advice


would this kind of spec fan be ok
AIRFLOW AV100
Airflow Aventa 4 inch inline extractor fan

Specification
Air Extraction : 187m3/hr
Air Extraction L/s : 60 L/s
Noise : 34dB(A)
Watts : 28W

if not are there any brands you can recommend
 
would this kind of spec fan be ok
AIRFLOW AV100
Airflow Aventa 4 inch inline extractor fan

Specification
Air Extraction : 187m3/hr
Air Extraction L/s : 60 L/s
Noise : 34dB(A)
Watts : 28W

if not are there any brands you can recommend


never fitted one, but my supplier has recommened it to me recently, so id say itll work fine
 

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mortgage retention advice for current installation upgrade
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