Type of drill to get?

[Chriel90]

I’m new-ish to the trade and going to be working on site in a new build block of flats as an Adult trainee/apprentice, I’ve been told to bring my own drill but not sure what type to get? My site experience is little so I’m guessing I’ll be doing a bit of everything.

10v/12v/18v? Combi or impact? I’d really appreciate some feedback if anyone has been in my position or a seasoned site worker and can recommend what to go for

 

[suffolkspark]

I’m new-ish to the trade and going to be working on site in a new build block of flats as an Adult trainee/apprentice, I’ve been told to bring my own drill but not sure what type to get? My site experience is little so I’m guessing I’ll be doing a bit of everything.

10v/12v/18v? Combi or impact? I’d really appreciate some feedback if anyone has been in my position or a seasoned site worker and can recommend what to go for

18v combi, imo makita still to me seem a balance of price and quality, and common, dont get the bottom model get next one up if on a budget to start out. Selection of drill bits, masonary, metal, wood spade bits should get you started. An impact driver is handy but not essential, an SDS might be but depends what your expected to do.

 

[timhoward]

Yes. 18v combi, 2 batteries. There’s always some offer on at Screwfix and Toolstation. Keep a close eye on it once on site as it will look shiny and new!

I’d have thought you’ll mostly be drilling wooden joists and stud work to pass cables through, and blocks to attach back boxes. So wood auger bits and at least a couple each of 5.5,6 and 7 mm masonry bits for red and brown rawlpugs.
One day you’ll want an SDS drill especially if you are drilling bricks a lot, but new builds are usually made of cheese….

 

[LukeD]

Dont dismiss the Erbaeur stuff from Screwfix. Far better in use than many would believe

 

[oscar21]

Milwaukee, we've had a selection of drills from different manufacturers over the years and everything only ever lasted a couple of years at the most except the milwaukee stuff, we've still got a working 18V SDS that was purchased in 2014 and it gets abused on a daily basis. One of the combi drills has just packed up and that was purchased in 2016 and the multitool we have thats still going strong was bought in 2018. I think one of the impact drivers we have is nearly as old as the SDS as well.

Obviously some of the older batteries are toast by now but compared to some makes the genuine milwaukee batteries are cheap as chips. We've have several chargers blow up though but they are only £30 to replace.

 

[pc1966]

If I had to buy just one power tool, and had the cash to hand, it would be this sort of thing:

Milwaukee M18ONEID2-502X M18 One Key FUEL 1/4" Hex Impact Driver

Milwaukee M18ONEID2. 18 volt cordless bluetooth 1/4 inch hex impact driver. Compact with fast screwdriving speeds. The Milwaukee impact driver for self tapping screws into sheet metal. UK equivalent for US Milwaukee Tool 2857-22. Milwaukee 4933464092.

www.bigredpowertools.co.uk

I got the drill & impact set but it is the 1/4" hex drive impact driver that works great for drills to 12mm and for hole saws for 20mm/25mm. Be weary of using it on screws and small bolts as it will break them even on minimum setting!

Plenty of other good tools out there so don't ignore the other suggestions, but I'm really impressed with this one.

 

[nicebutdim]

Milwaukee, we've had a selection of drills from different manufacturers over the years and everything only ever lasted a couple of years at the most except the milwaukee stuff, we've still got a working 18V SDS that was purchased in 2014 and it gets abused on a daily basis. One of the combi drills has just packed up and that was purchased in 2016 and the multitool we have thats still going strong was bought in 2018. I think one of the impact drivers we have is nearly as old as the SDS as well.

Obviously some of the older batteries are toast by now but compared to some makes the genuine milwaukee batteries are cheap as chips. We've have several chargers blow up though but they are only £30 to replace.

OP is starting work as a spark, not a plumber.

 

[rewireIT]

If you can only get one, get an 18v combi.

If possible, get both combi and the 18v impact driver together. Combi for drilling, hole sawing, boring, all that stuff, impact for screwing. It's too much of a ball ache changing bits all the time so both is best.

 

[pc1966]

If you can only get one, get an 18v combi.

I got the combi & impact set, but found the drill hardly gets used at all:

Milwaukee M18FPP2A2-502X 2 Piece M18 FUEL Power Pack

Milwaukee M18FPP2A2. Combi drill and 1/4 inch hex impact driver Milwaukee twin pack power tool kit. Generation 3 FUEL. Milwaukee cordless brushless drills and impact drivers combo kit. UK equivalent for US Milwaukee Tool 2997-22. Milwaukee 4933464269.

www.bigredpowertools.co.uk

The drill is good for bigger hole saws, can work with smaller masonry drills, and it is more precise for accurate drilling as the 3-jaw check centres traditional bits better then the hex-shank style, but in most cases that is trivial. Also hex shank drills are typically only made in a few sizes so you might need to use normal twist drills for specific cases like pilot for hole tapping.

If possible, get both combi and the 18v impact driver together. Combi for drilling, hole sawing, boring, all that stuff, impact for screwing. It's too much of a ball ache changing bits all the time so both is best.

The hex-shank drills are excellent for that quick change, and the impact action works well for larger drills or the likes of the Armeg hole saws.

Only thing is the hex drills cost more and are not that great in terms of lifespan, but factoring your time, etc, they easily pay for themselves in convenience.

 

[rewireIT]

I got the combi & impact set, but found the drill hardly gets used at all:

Milwaukee M18FPP2A2-502X 2 Piece M18 FUEL Power Pack

Milwaukee M18FPP2A2. Combi drill and 1/4 inch hex impact driver Milwaukee twin pack power tool kit. Generation 3 FUEL. Milwaukee cordless brushless drills and impact drivers combo kit. UK equivalent for US Milwaukee Tool 2997-22. Milwaukee 4933464269.

www.bigredpowertools.co.uk

The drill is good for bigger hole saws, can work with smaller masonry drills, and it is more precise for accurate drilling as the 3-jaw check centres traditional bits better then the hex-shank style, but in most cases that is trivial. Also hex shank drills are typically only made in a few sizes so you might need to use normal twist drills for specific cases like pilot for hole tapping.


The hex-shank drills are excellent for that quick change, and the impact action works well for larger drills or the likes of the Armeg hole saws.

Only thing is the hex drills cost more and are not that great in terms of lifespan, but factoring your time, etc, they easily pay for themselves in convenience.

I must admit for everything except drilling out for stuffers and drilling through joists i use the impact.

 

[ferg]

Milwaukee, Bosch, Dewalt, Makita. All good not a lot between them TBH.

I have used Dewalt for many years so I stick to what I know.

Erbauer as suggested probably won't last as long but would likely last the length of this job.

I would get an 18v combi drill with 2 batteries and charger. 4Ah minimum.
As for drill bits you could ask what you need and concentrate on those rather than spend a fortune on bits you won't use.

 

[nicebutdim]

I must admit for everything except drilling out for stuffers and drilling through joists i use the impact.

Smooth cutting hole saws would save you using a drill at all, unless you're talking 63mm stuffing glands. I don't have a combi as the extra weight and length of combi ring is unnecessary in a tool that won't ever be drilling masonry. I keep a reasonbaly powerful drill/driver, mainly used with big hole saws or 1/4" bits.

 

[rewireIT]

Smooth cutting hole saws would save you using a drill at all, unless you're talking 63mm stuffing glands. I don't have a combi as the extra weight and length of combi ring is unnecessary in a tool that won't ever be drilling masonry. I keep a reasonbaly powerful drill/driver, mainly used with big hole saws or 1/4" bits.

Not sure what you mean - when i say drilling for stuffers i mean using a hole saw in a drill.

 

[nicebutdim]

Not sure what you mean - when i say drilling for stuffers i mean using a hole saw in a drill.

I know what you meant and suggested using smooth cutting hole saws in an impact driver.

These things.

 

[pirate]

I'd go with a combi first as it's quite versatile, then an impact for the "oomph" when you really need it, like setting muti-montis into concrete. Also, while I agree 2 decent sized batteries are ideal, I like a small 1.7Ah when drilling at height or above my head as it is much lighter.
As for hole saws, well I very rarely use them. If I need a hole in a metal box etc I use a hole-punch. There's no "chattering" on the enclosure which is nice, especially if it is populated, and you get a nice clean cut, albeit I run a Noga round the hole to deburr even though it's not usually necessary. If the box is installed close to a ceiling, for example, it's difficult to get a drill on top, so the punch wins by being so compact.
If the box is of thin metal then a pilot hole of 5mm followed up by a cone or step drill. Anything except attack it with jagged teeth whirly round thing!

 

[rewireIT]

I know what you meant and suggested using smooth cutting hole saws in an impact driver.

These things.

But then when i want to start screwing stuff in i have to change bits. I find it more economical to have all my screwing done with the impact and all the other stuff done with the combi

 

[rewireIT]

I'd go with a combi first as it's quite versatile, then an impact for the "oomph" when you really need it, like setting muti-montis into concrete. Also, while I agree 2 decent sized batteries are ideal, I like a small 1.7Ah when drilling at height or above my head as it is much lighter.
As for hole saws, well I very rarely use them. If I need a hole in a metal box etc I use a hole-punch. There's no "chattering" on the enclosure which is nice, especially if it is populated, and you get a nice clean cut, albeit I run a Noga round the hole to deburr even though it's not usually necessary. If the box is installed close to a ceiling, for example, it's difficult to get a drill on top, so the punch wins by being so compact.
If the box is of thin metal then a pilot hole of 5mm followed up by a cone or step drill. Anything except attack it with jagged teeth whirly round thing!

nice.

how many cuts do you get out of each punch?

 

[nicebutdim]

But then when i want to start screwing stuff in i have to change bits. I find it more economical to have all my screwing done with the impact and all the other stuff done with the combi

I wouldn't have made the suggestion, had your earlier post (quoted below) not been at odds with the above.

I must admit for everything except drilling out for stuffers and drilling through joists i use the impact.

There are also very capable bits available for drilling through joists with an impact driver, providing exceptional speed and requiring minimal effort.

Assuming your latter statement is correct, I'd encourage you to try making more use of impact drivers. In my estimation, they're up there with the multi tool in terms of 'how did we manage before their invention?' and are very versatile tools which adapt to multiple tasks with ease (mashing the insides of dist boards excepted).

 

[nicebutdim]

As for hole saws, well I very rarely use them. If I need a hole in a metal box etc I use a hole-punch. There's no "chattering" on the enclosure which is nice, especially if it is populated, and you get a nice clean cut, albeit I run a Noga round the hole to deburr even though it's not usually necessary. If the box is installed close to a ceiling, for example, it's difficult to get a drill on top, so the punch wins by being so compact.
If the box is of thin metal then a pilot hole of 5mm followed up by a cone or step drill. Anything except attack it with jagged teeth whirly round thing!

I've looked at punches many times and really like the idea, but can't help feeling they'd end up as another unloved item in the bottom of a tool box, due to more efficient means of cutting holes.

What appeals most about punches is the idea of a clean cut, with no swarf. The smooth cutting holesaws I linked earlier do produce lots of tiny metal chips, but leave behind a very clean hole and cut smoothly, without any chattering. The also have a lip that prevents protrusion into enclosures.

The only issue I have is their price.

 

[pc1966]

how many cuts do you get out of each punch?

Hundreds if you look after it. Mostly making sure the bolt/nut is lightly greased and kept clean of swarf. You can usually replace the bolts part as well.

They make for a clean hole, slight burr on the pushed-into side, but quiet and free of swarf other than the pilot hole. If you need a medium size hole in sheet metal (say to 2mm steel) they are very attractive, though bigger ones need a ~20mm pilot so cone drill, hole saw, or two sizes punch operations needed.

Here are examples:

Q Max Sheet Metal Hole Punch Metric | Hole Punches

Buy Q Max Sheet Metal Hole Punch Metric and other Q Max Hole Punches at Tooled-Up.com. Fast Delivery.

www.tooled-up.com

For smaller sizes, say to 20mm or there about, a cone drill or Armeg hole saw work as well, if you don't mind swarf (i.e. cutting before installation, without electrics to get contaminated with it). While I have hole sawed to 110mm its not a great experience and rarely that accurate a hole at the end of the day, a hole punch is far more civilised.

You also get square punches for switches, and special shaped hole punches for the likes of coax connectors (single 'D' for BNC, double D for Type N, or etc) that are great if you need them, but price is surprisingly high, as in £100-200 or more.