Discuss 2/3 of my sockets have stopped working in the Australia area at ElectriciansForums.net

L

littlewigin

Hi guys


A few hours ago, 2/3 of the downstairs sockets in my house stopped working. I've taken a voltmeter to them (from my car mechanics box) but I'm no electrician (I've put in a spur and an RCD to an electric underfloor heater but that's my limit). The meter from L to N reads 230-235v on the working ones and 70 on the ones that arn't working. The only other weird/scary thing is the live to earth reading is 230-235 on the ones that arn't working.


As it's an old stone house with solid floors, I've got an idea about which socket links to which however after pulling a few skirting boards off to try to trace them, it's a bit hit and miss to work out which could link to which. There's also some signs of junction boxes but they havn't been opened/unearthed since we bought the house 14 years ago. Loads of the wiring is plastered in.


When they went, we seemed to be powering the QE2. The tumble dryer, washing machine (both WM and dryer are on a spur), fridge/freezer, dishwasher, microwave and tv/stereo etc were on (but I'm fairly certain that we've had that many things running at the same time before). The only other change is that 4 days ago, I've switched the RCD/underfloor heater back on (it's on a timer) and so I was afraid that this might have been the cause. I've uncscrewed this spur to try to discount it but the rest of the sockets still read the same voltage 70v.


There's an RCD in the consumer unit and that didn't trip. There's a similar post from a few years ago but with a new house and I *think* I've now followed that by checking each of the sockets that arn't working in turn to see if there's an obvious loose neutral. I just can't get my head around where to try to find the problem.

SHould I open up the sockets that are working or to open up the dodgy junction boxes OR call in an electrician. We're certainly not loaded and I havn't a clue how much is a reasonable rate for someone to take a look at it.


Any help VERY gratefully appreciated as the boiler runs off the mains and the rest of the family will be moaning if I can't sort it! ;-)


Thanks.


:)

LW from Leicester

 
I think I know what you mean? I've tested the voltage between the live and the neutral on the ones that are working and it reads 230-235v. When I put the meter between the live and neutral on the ones that have stopped working, they read 70v. Sorry if I've misunderstood.
 
As spin says sounds like a loose / broken connection.

Depending on the layout of your sockets and the method of wiring the sockets (ring or radial) the problems may be different. However the fault is likely to be found either at the first or last non working socket or at the working sockets before or after.

Try and think if there have been any other changes that have occurred recently, tripping over a cable, putting nails in walls, etc. that may have affected the wiring.

Always switch off the power before checking connections, be safe.
 
Thanks :) When I get back from work tomorrow, I'm going to try to undo each socket and then screw each one back up to double check. Is it worth me checking the ones that work as well AND is there a best socket to start looking/checking? Cheers for all the comments. It's a cold lonely place otherwise :)
 
I would have said 'loose or broken neutral' as well - either in one of the non-working sockets or the last working one, the problem could be finding the 'last' one.
Failing that it could be a connection in one of these JBs, which could be harder to find.

Do you know if the sockets are wired in a radial, or a ring?
 
IF for instance you have a radial then the previous socket before the non working ones or the first non working one is likely to have a fault as in the attached diagram.
The red flash is the likely loose connection.
Socket fault.jpg
Please remember that without knowledge of the circuit and at a remote distance this can be only an idea of what may be wrong not a definite statement.
 
IF for instance you have a radial then the previous socket before the non working ones or the first non working one is likely to have a fault as in the attached diagram.
The red flash is the likely loose connection.
View attachment 10169
Please remember that without knowledge of the circuit and at a remote distance this can be only an idea of what may be wrong not a definite statement.

Thanks and I'm just appreciative of the help. I *think* that it's been wired as a ring circuit as I've only found 2 spurs.
 
Agree with Murdoch. Get a local electrician in, tell him all the info that you've posted on here to get the ball rolling, youve already done a bit of ground work but have reached your limits by the sounds of things.

I'm no car mechanic, only do basic maintaining and change flat tyres. Anything beyond that it goes into a professional garage. Good luck in getting this sorted.
 
agree with previous posts. broken or loose neutral. if you post your location, someone on the forum may be close to you. cost should not be too high for a professional to sort the problem.
 
Does seem to me an electrician will need to see this one as from what that has been said.
If more than one socket has stopped working and still has a voltage then it could be:
A: loose neutral in socket=sockets not in ring and should be assesed if safe from overloading.
B: Loose neutral in more than one socket=unlikely but same as above.
C: Loose neutral in CU this may cause heat damage and need replacing if damaged

All the above are easy to fix but an underlaying problem may have caused it as you say it is an older building and may not have been checked electrically for some time, It really is worth getting a sparks in who will be able to sort very quickly and offer any advice that is required.
 
was going to mention that 1 loose neutral on a ring wouldn't cause the non-working, but had to go for a refill. (the lord's my shepherd neame!)
 

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