Discuss Audi 80 92 2.0 l serious battery drain in the Auto Electrician Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Audi 80 92. 2.0l. Serious battery drain in the morning tried to turn but not enough power from battery.jumps easily runs ok stop turn off then turn on same problem.won't turn .bought new battery same problem.alternator checked no problem mechanic says it's charging battery ok.any help would be nice.thanks
 
Measure the drain current to confirm excessive drain, leave the meter in and remove fuses one at a time until drain goes down. It always used to be a light stuck on in the boot or glove box but with modern electrics it could be anything.
 
When you locate the correct fuse what do you do next?thanks
Check the service manual to find what is connected to that fuse and investigate which load is draining current and why. If, for example, the heated rear window is taking power all the time you check out the switch. If it's the engine management unit then it's time to get someone in.

If you're not comfortable reading a car wiring schematic, and they're hard work at the best of times, then it might be prudent to get help. A car battery can supply a lot of current and it's easy to fry the wiring loom and anything connected to it.
 
After market alarms and stereos 10years after the install can cause havoc in a car, check boot light glove box light are not staying on also get one of these to whittle down to which the circuit drain is on you can also get one that connects to your meter/fluke.....

Screenshot 2018-12-01 at 20.10.52.jpg
 
Someone looked at the battery today and said the black/earth connectors aren't secure enough !he suggested putting a nail in between the connectors and terminal.I wasn't sure about this!should the connectors be replaced ?they look well used!thanks
 
It's possible for a poor connection to prevent the battery charging properly but it would be hard to tell just by looking. You're right that bunging nails in isn't good practice. The connection needs a large surface area of clean metal, it doesn't have to be very tight. If you can't rotate the clamp on the battery terminal by hand it's probably tight enough.

It might be worth giving the terminals and clamps a clean with Scotchbright or the like and see if it makes a difference. If you decide the clamp is past it then replacement is the best solution. (Link to some clamps on Amazon)

Have you measured the current drain from the battery with everything turned off? That will tell you if there's a problem with the electrics, regardless of the state of the clamps.
 
It's possible for a poor connection to prevent the battery charging properly but it would be hard to tell just by looking. You're right that bunging nails in isn't good practice. The connection needs a large surface area of clean metal, it doesn't have to be very tight. If you can't rotate the clamp on the battery terminal by hand it's probably tight enough.

It might be worth giving the terminals and clamps a clean with Scotchbright or the like and see if it makes a difference. If you decide the clamp is past it then replacement is the best solution. (Link to some clamps on Amazon)

Have you measured the current drain from the battery with everything turned off? That will tell you if there's a problem with the electrics, regardless of the state of the clamps.
 
I'm thinking that the charge going from battery to engine isn't strong enough.it starts with jumper no problem .drives fine.if I stop turn off engine.restart a few seconds later same not enough power to turn engine over.so could a small leak from one unit do this.could it be old cables and clamps from battery to stArter be the problem.?Thanks .The alternator has been checked and correct charge was measured.thanks
 
I'm thinking that the charge going from battery to engine isn't strong enough.it starts with jumper no problem .drives fine.if I stop turn off engine.restart a few seconds later same not enough power to turn engine over.so could a small leak from one unit do this.could it be old cables and clamps from battery to stArter be the problem.?Thanks .The alternator has been checked and correct charge was measured.thanks
No that doesn't sound like a small discharge, it sounds like a bad battery or possibly poor connections. When you do a jump start do you connect to the battery terminals? If so the wiring from the battery to starter is probably OK. Do you have access to a multimeter? Without measuring voltage you're working in the dark.
 
try ohm meter across battery - to engine block. should read almost 0 ohms.
 
Ground connection is always a prime suspect but if the jump start works well with the leads onto the existing battery terminals it tends to rule out battery wiring, at least to the starter.

It sounds like a dud battery, it wouldn't be the first time a new battery turned out faulty. A couple of voltage measurements would make things clearer.
 
Yes , but even if it is borderline it is sometimes enough to get it started .
A good check of connections is the first thing to rule out.
 
Mates van, sorted it earth strap dodgy, jumps leads to engine block and positive terminal.
Nice . I always used to earth from battery to a good earth on breakdowns to get them started . I have seen a lot of cables burned out churning away with a bad earth. Old choke cables were a favourite target too.
 
After talking to someone else who had a look at the engine he suggested a sensor (i can't remember the name) that sits on top of the engine connected to a trigger pu lly type device could be the problem!any ideas ?thanks.
 
There are few, lambda sensor also known as the oxygen sensor, but I can't see a sensor draining power, did you check the circuits to see what is drawing power when the engine is off? In the mean time fit one of these, you will lose radio settings etc etc

Screenshot 2018-12-10 at 22.42.54.jpg
 
There are few, lambda sensor also known as the oxygen sensor, but I can't see a sensor draining power, did you check the circuits to see what is drawing power when the engine is off? In the mean time fit one of these, you will lose radio settings etc etc

View attachment 46372
and if it's a coded radio, he's buggered, unless a spare battery ( an alarm battery will do) or a starter pack is connected to power the radio etc while the mod is being done. and that device looks like it'e been designed by a plumber and fitted by a wood butcher.
 
and if it's a coded radio, he's buggered, unless a spare battery ( an alarm battery will do) or a starter pack is connected to power the radio etc while the mod is being done. and that device looks like it'e been designed by a plumber and fitted by a wood butcher.
Used them on the Loti and E30 if stood a while they are fine and known in the trade.
 
After talking to someone else who had a look at the engine he suggested a sensor (i can't remember the name) that sits on top of the engine connected to a trigger pu lly type device could be the problem!any ideas ?thanks.
If it was the crankshaft sensor (or it's equivalent) then jump starting would not work either. From what I've read so far, I'm with the "bad earth or bad battery" team.
 
Seems to be the solenoid on the starter motor so replacement of all of the unit seemsbest.this seems most probable cause because it want start even after being driven.parasitic drain would probably leave enough charge for the car to start up after just being driven!the solenoid if faulty would cause this!so hopefully replacement of starter motor which has solenoid on top will sort the problem.!
 

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