H

Hawk

Though I'd ask what some of you use when extending cables for a consumer unit change. I always would have thought crimps and heat shrink to be the best way, but wago push connectors seem to be not bad. Quicker to use and a better hold on solid core cable (t&e)
 
Just a rare chance to reply early...it would depend on available space/cost/speed etc Proficiently applied crimps would be a better option if minimum space taken up,was required.

Wago do a DIN rail push in assembly.that can be adapted,tested and marked up with both colours and nomenclature...a nice,professional looking job...but at a cost,as you would have to carry all of what may be needed.

Inspected one a while ago,that looked beautiful,over half of the circuits,in T&E,had been lovingly extended,and heat-shrinked...but further dissection revealed individual conductors had been soldered together in parallels...so,they ALL had to be executed :28:
 
Are they classed as a maintenance free joint?

...I now cannot read that description,without remembering the demise of the grease nipple...and the subsequent hundreds of holes i have drilled and tapped,to enable fitting one...:winkiss:
 
Just out of interest, is there a proper maintenance free joint similar to that of a wago connector, crimp or similar that actually carries the MF stamp?

if extending in a cu I use crimps as its a bit neater, but if it's being extended and moved and need to use trunking, I'd use wago connectors as its easier.

i have funnily enough got a job next week where I'll be using a wago din rail enclosure.
 
Is there anything wrong with using the good old fashioned connector blocks to extend a few conductors within a CU ? [Obviously of the correct current rating for the circuits]. I've done this in the past but always connect both existing and 'extension' cabling through the full length of the connector so both conductors are under two terminal screws.
 
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Is there anything wrong with using the good old fashioned connector blocks to extend a few conductors within a CU ? [Obviously of the correct current rating for the circuits]. I've done this in the past but always connect both existing and 'extension' cabling through the full length of the connector so both conductors are under two terminal screws.

As long as you securely fix the connector blocks and don't leave them flapping loose in the ends of the cables then it's fine.
 
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Nope, nothing wrong with using connector blocks, just that they're bulky and not aesthetically pleasing.
 
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I always fix them with a self adhesive base and small cable tie, also tucked away behind all the neat wiring out of the way.:smilewinkgrin:
 
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As long as you securely fix the connector blocks and don't leave them flapping loose in the ends of the cables then it's fine.

LOL. Because unsecured block connectors like going for midnight dances.
 
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Please forgive an ignorant trainee's question, but what sort of crimp is suitable for connection to solid copper wires found in 1.0, 1.5 and 2.5mm twin and earth? I'm familiar with the methods of crimp termination for fine and thick stranded cable, but not small csa solid.
 
Please forgive an ignorant trainee's question, but what sort of crimp is suitable for connection to solid copper wires found in 1.0, 1.5 and 2.5mm twin and earth? I'm familiar with the methods of crimp termination for fine and thick stranded cable, but not small csa solid.

Pretty much the ones that have been mentioned in this post. There are quite a few out there, Wago & the one's Tel mentions on post 15.
 
Pretty much the ones that have been mentioned in this post. There are quite a few out there, Wago & the one's Tel mentions on post 15.

Thanks for the reply. :)

Wagos are not crimp connectors, neither are the splice in-line thingies Tel mentioned.

The original poster asked what people do to extend cables in CUs. The options so far seem to be:

- Wagos
- Spliceline in-line thingies
- connector blocks
- crimps

I'm wondering what sort of crimps are suitable for extending/terminating small cross sectional area solid core cable... in particular, a link/PDF that says that sort of crimp is suitable for that sort of cable. :) A couple of folks (spinlondon and PEG) have said they use crimps. The original poster (Hawk) thinks that Wagos would be "a better hold" than crimped connectors. This shouldn't be an issue if "proficiently applied" (PEG, post #5)... so I'm wondering, what sort of crimps are suitable to achieve this? Are the pre-insulated (red, blue yellow) crimps suitable? I've had a look through some of the technical material on the Klauke and CableCraft websites, and I haven't found a definitive answer (e.g. Technical reports: Crimp types at a glance ). Maybe I've just missed it :)
 
Sorry happysteve. Must have misread the word 'crimp' in your post.
 
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Please forgive an ignorant trainee's question, but what sort of crimp is suitable for connection to solid copper wires found in 1.0, 1.5 and 2.5mm twin and earth? I'm familiar with the methods of crimp termination for fine and thick stranded cable, but not small csa solid.

Hi Steve,

Could you give some reference to where it states that solid core cables should not be crimped. The article you've linked in your next post is very interesting but I cant see where it specifically states solid conductors should not be crimped (although I did read it fairly quickly).

When I was taught (all those many years ago!), we were crimping solid conductors and the tutor (very experienced) mentioned nothing about crimping of solid conductors being unreliable (if crimped correctly). I must admit a stranded conductor must surely get a better connection once crimped, but the solid conductors seem pretty reliable too (if crimped correctly).

I have used both the red and blue crimp on 1mm and 2.5mm and then put the cable in a vice and pulled at them with a pair of pliers and they didn't budge so I feel 'fairly' happy crimping.... unless you come up with a scary article!!
 
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In fact, my son and I have just gone out to the shed and carried out the experiment again on 1mm and 2.5mm T&E.

It was a 2 part test, first he pulled and then I did!

I was almost hanging off both of them and they didn't budge. I'm only 75kg but thats still quite a bit of force!!

Of course thats not very scientific and I should carry it out perhaps 100 times, but were now going into town for a pasty so you shall have to be happy with a test case of just '1'. :D
 
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In fact, my son and I have just gone out to the shed and carried out the experiment again on 1mm and 2.5mm T&E.

It was a 2 part test, first he pulled and then I did!

I was almost hanging off both of them and they didn't budge. I'm only 75kg but thats still quite a bit of force!!

Of course thats not very scientific and I should carry it out perhaps 100 times, but were now going into town for a pasty so you shall have to be happy with a test case of just '1'. :D

Mechanical strength is only half of the story, it needs to be electrically sound too.
Measure the joint resistance with a high current milliohmmeter and see how good it is
 
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When I have looked at the specifications for the standard red, etc. crimps the information never seems to state the type of cable, it may say "works well on stranded" or the like but never actually seems to state "will not work effectively on solid conductors".
There have been many comments on here about these crimps being unsuitable for solid conductors but never any proof.

I too was taught that crimps could be used on solid conductors and I have continued to use them for such.
Unfortunately any lack of suitability of a crimp would likely only show up over a long period and so may well not be noticed, then again I have had crimps on solid conductors that then slip off when tested for "pull", however the next crimp then holds, possibly my poor crimping practice.

I am of the opinion that so long as the crimp is a good quality crimp then it should be OK for solid conductors.

Low quality crimps (or crimping pliers) would not make a secure joint.
 
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See all this doubt about crimps, you really can't go wrong with properly done good old connector blocks.:tongue:
 
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