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W

wattsup

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A multi hundred pound granite (£) back splash in a kitchen.

So understandably no unneeded switches/sockets wanted...ahhh, an under worktop washer and dryer (two separate units).

I can understand the need for local accessable disconnection, but hey two switch fuses would look real ****e. I can't install one sfs cos it would be very close to 18 amps if both appliances on at the same time, hence the 13amp fuse may melt, at least it would eventually...

Anyhow I thought one 20amp dp switch, controlling 1 twin socket, which in turn would supply both appliances, the 20 amp switch on the local ring main, is that ok?.

Sockets fitted in adjoining cupboards is out of the question
 
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J

johnnyb

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #2
I have heard of this before, a NO NO to fitting S/O in cupboards, where in the regs does it say u cannot.
The only people we have come across are the actual fitters and most of them don,t mind as its common sense, as long as you can isolate appliances what the heck, safely that is.
 
V

Vinny

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #3
Im probably missing something but here goes anyway'
Is there a cupboard on ether side of the washer and dryer positions? If so why can’t you fit a twin 13A skt (un-switched) into the ring cct and mount it in the back of a cupboard. Isolation of either item would then be achieved by pulling the plug?:confused:
 
L

lister

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #4
im assuming the "out of the question" to s/o in units is more to do with the customer rather than the regs, i have had this myself and as an idea - what about a socket outlet under the units (provided plinth is easy to remove)
or am i just rough?

i've even had customers demand cooker switches in unit's because of "spoiling the look"
"defeats it's object sorry love it goes there" chip pan on fire which cupboard do you empty?:D
 
Last edited by a moderator:
B

beaver74

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #5
1 2g skt loaded up by these two loads does'nt sound good to me as most 2g skt are rated at 13A for both install 2 1g skts them 13A each
 
W

WarrenG

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #7
The trouble is if the sockets used to power the equipment are consealed then there is no quick isloation point.

If the customer doesn't want unsightly plugs or spurs you can always fit one of these trendy pop up sockets somewhere in the work surface - only £229.99........lol

Hettich Pop Up Socket - handles4doors

Otherwise it sounds like the chisel might have to come out.

I suppose the kitchen fitter forgot about the power for the accessories when fitting the granite?? :(
 
A

assured elec

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #8
bring your ring main into a 35mm single box , uses 2 x 20a dp engraved switches controlling 1 single skt each under the work top ..

Hamilton do a good range of engraved clip in dp 20 a switches , with , fridge , wash mach ect engraved on them .. you will also need the the back grid and double front plate that fits on a single skt box

Don't forget to link out the back of the switches to keep the ring continuity

this method of switching under unit appliances is often used in new builds

or use the mk range

MK Grid Plus - Buy quality MK Grid Plus

 
Last edited by a moderator:
J

JulesHurley

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #9
Had a similar problem with a kitchen install, which highlighted another point about kitchen isolation, esp cookers / hobs.

There has to be electrical isolation for a cooker or hob incase there is a pan fire, so so we can all quote the regs / guides etc. When did you last see a isolation tap for a gas hob?
 
S

Spudnik

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #10
There has to be electrical isolation for a cooker or hob incase there is a pan fire, so so we can all quote the regs / guides etc.
There has to be a point of isolation that is accessible for whatever reasons.

Therefore this would allow an isolator, albeit plug and socket or switch to be located in the front of an under worktop cupboard.

Always do if client wants clear walls.

Even my assessor agreed and said it was fine.
 
A multi hundred pound granite (£) back splash in a kitchen.

So understandably no unneeded switches/sockets wanted...ahhh, an under worktop washer and dryer (two separate units).

I can understand the need for local accessable disconnection, but hey two switch fuses would look real ****e. I can't install one sfs cos it would be very close to 18 amps if both appliances on at the same time, hence the 13amp fuse may melt, at least it would eventually...

Anyhow I thought one 20amp dp switch, controlling 1 twin socket, which in turn would supply both appliances, the 20 amp switch on the local ring main, is that ok?.

Sockets fitted in adjoining cupboards is out of the question
I think your isolation can be up to 2m away horizontally from your appliance.fit your FCUs away from splashback and drop 1.5 flexes down and fit duraplug single sockets accessable for fuse changing under kickspace.
 
S

sparkyt

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #12
assured elec

bring your ring main into a 35mm single box , uses 2 x 20a dp engraved switches controlling 1 single skt each under the work top ..

Hamilton do a good range of engraved clip in dp 20 a switches , with , fridge , wash mach ect engraved on them .. you will also need the the back grid and double front plate that fits on a single skt box

Don't forget to link out the back of the switches to keep the ring continuity

this method of switching under unit appliances is often used in new builds



problem with this is that the supply side of the 20a dp switchs normally are not rated above 20a therefore would not be able to drop onto a 32a ring. niceic bloke picked this up at an inspection and although its done in alot of new builds he advise it was wrong and so to perhaps split the ring at the switch and then create 2 seperate radials back at the board


or use the mk range

MK Grid Plus - Buy quality MK Grid Plus
 
assured elec

bring your ring main into a 35mm single box , uses 2 x 20a dp engraved switches controlling 1 single skt each under the work top ..

Hamilton do a good range of engraved clip in dp 20 a switches , with , fridge , wash mach ect engraved on them .. you will also need the the back grid and double front plate that fits on a single skt box

Don't forget to link out the back of the switches to keep the ring continuity

this method of switching under unit appliances is often used in new builds


problem with this is that the supply side of the 20a dp switchs normally are not rated above 20a therefore would not be able to drop onto a 32a ring. niceic bloke picked this up at an inspection and although its done in alot of new builds he advise it was wrong and so to perhaps split the ring at the switch and then create 2 seperate radials back at the board


or use the mk range

MK Grid Plus - Buy quality MK Grid Plus
are 13amp sockets,13amp spur units rated at more than 20amp?I don't think so.The copper terminals appear to be beefier in a 20amp dp.??
 
A

assured elec

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #14
assured elec

bring your ring main into a 35mm single box , uses 2 x 20a dp engraved switches controlling 1 single skt each under the work top ..

Hamilton do a good range of engraved clip in dp 20 a switches , with , fridge , wash mach ect engraved on them .. you will also need the the back grid and double front plate that fits on a single skt box

Don't forget to link out the back of the switches to keep the ring continuity

this method of switching under unit appliances is often used in new builds



problem with this is that the supply side of the 20a dp switchs normally are not rated above 20a therefore would not be able to drop onto a 32a ring. niceic bloke picked this up at an inspection and although its done in alot of new builds he advise it was wrong and so to perhaps split the ring at the switch and then create 2 seperate radials back at the board


or use the mk range

MK Grid Plus - Buy quality MK Grid Plus

Sockets are rated at 13 amps , and you link the ring out in the back of the dp 20a switches to prevent splitting the ring , like i said
 
Sockets are rated at 13 amps , and you link the ring out in the back of the dp 20a switches to prevent splitting the ring , like i said
so if sockets are rated at 13amp,with say 2plugtops with 10amps load each,plugged into a double socket on a 32amp ring,this socket would be seriously overloaded.Should a double socket not be rated at 26amp(2x13).
just wondering about the logic of the niceic man not permitting the 20amp dp on the ring?(previous poster)
 
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