Oct 21, 2017
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Southampton
I will soon be installing a 1,600 Watt Quooker hot water heater for which a new 13A socket will be required. A ring main cable passes behind the kitchen cabinet that houses the sink and I have the choice of either inserting a single junction box into the ring and feeding the new socket via a spur, or cutting the cable and putting a junction box on each end so that the new socket could be fully incorporated into the ring. In the latter case, it's not practical to try and feed new ring cables from the nearest sockets, so using 2 junction boxes would be unavoidable.

In theory, it should be OK to connect a 1,600 Watt heater to a spur socket, as this would draw a current of under 7 Amps and be well within the capacity of the 2.5mm2 spur cable.

However, are there any reasons why it would be more prudent to wire the new socket into the ring?
 
or cutting the cable and putting a junction box on each end so that the new socket could be fully incorporated into the ring. In the latter case, it's not practical to try and feed new ring cables from the nearest sockets, so using 2 junction boxes would be unavoidable.

Why not just use 1 maintenance free junction box to extend the ring? Just have both ends wired into it.
Or just add a spur.
 
Why not just use 1 maintenance free junction box to extend the ring? Just have both ends wired into it.
Or just add a spur.
All my traditional 30A junction boxes have only 3 terminals and I have no experience of using more up-to-date products such as Wago. Exactly what make/model of junction box are you suggesting would allow for extending the ring?
 
All my traditional 30A junction boxes have only 3 terminals and I have no experience of using more up-to-date products such as Wago. Exactly what make/model of junction box are you suggesting would allow for extending the ring?

You can't use the old style round junction boxes if they are inaccessible though.
 
  • Agree
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Think OP's problem might be the lack of slack cable to go into one JB, especially a Wago Connexbox.
 
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You can't use the old style round junction boxes if they are inaccessible though.
Whatever style of junction box I choose for this installation will remain accessible.

Something like this would do. I'm sure there maybe something a bit smaller that would also do it.
I'm assuming that each Wago connector provides a join between all the individual wires plugged into their sockets. A total of 6 two-way connectors would then permit a ring extension. Are the 24A Wago WA 202 connectors approved for ring mains?

Think OP's problem might be the lack of slack cable to go into one JB, especially a Wago Connexbox.
There appears to be enough slack to use a single junction box.
 
easiest way is to use 3 x 3 port wagos. spur off the local cable. normal wagobox as below.not the lighting box. :
 
It's possible to spur into an almost taught cable using an old style 3-in-a-line 30A junction box. It involves some careful removal of the outer sheath of the cable and sections of insulation from the conductors in exactly the right places, without cutting the copper at all. The only problem is that you can't get the required green/yellow sleeving onto the cpc, so in this case only, a few turns of green/yellow insulation tape can do the job.
 
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Quickwire splitter connectors. currently only for lighting, but 32A ones are in the pipeline. earth sleeving not required with these. and no need for slack as the connectors are about 4" long.

 
Whatever jointing method is used, the additional load on the ring will be fine, as the qooker will no doubt be replacing a kettle.

Never liked the idea of a boiling water tap. Not with kids in the house...

“Can I get a drink???”

“There’s plenty water in the tap!”

“Aaaaaaargh!”
 
Never liked the idea of a boiling water tap. Not with kids in the house...
Same here!

I really see it as a safety hazard and not something that would genuinely save me any effort.
 
Same here!

I really see it as a safety hazard and not something that would genuinely save me any effort.

Never liked the idea of a boiling water tap. Not with kids in the house...

“Can I get a drink???”

“There’s plenty water in the tap!”

“Aaaaaaargh!”

Totally agree. They're just a solution looking for a problem, and a means of extracting money from the terminally gullible.
 
And tea made with them tastes rank.
 
  • Informative
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I also used to think that the Quooker was for the "terminally gullible" and was of little use to me, as my wife never drinks tea and I only have one cup a day (I prefer drinking espresso coffee). However, my wife is a keen cook and realised that she boiled water quite frequently for other purposes. My mechanical engineer brother (who is very slow to buy modern gadgets) also spoke very highly of his new Quooker, as did our next door neighbour. My wife is usually very reluctant to spend money, so I was more than happy to agree.

This purchase was prompted by the fact that our current kitchen mixer tap is at the end of its life. The Quooker is undoubtedly an indulgence but I'm sure it will prove useful and it's much safer than you might think.

I'm tempted to give the Wago kit a try, but no one seems to think there is any real need to avoid the use of a spur socket connection, so perhaps I'll just use one of my old-fashioned junction boxes on this occasion.

Thanks for all the advice. It's much appreciated.
 
just someting else to break down once the guarantee has run out. what's to go wrong with this:

1610179858816.png
 
  • Funny
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We sometimes get obsessed with putting every socket into the ring, but spurs were invented for a reason and correctly used they are very handy. There is no reason not to put the Quooker on a spur if it is more convenient. If it reduces the number of joints or makes them more accessible, then I would say it is preferable to be on a spur.
 

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Is it advisable to feed a 1,600 Watt Quooker heater from a ring main spur?
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