B

BruceWayne

Ive been working as a sparkys mate since 2014 mainly on commercial new build and recently started doing my own jobs after completing C&G 2365 L2+L3, done my part p, unsure whether to book 17th as 18th comes out soon.

Works decently coming in, main issue im having is not knowing where to route cable i.e customers wanting outdoor security light, must I start lifting floorboards to route a feed off kitchen light or is there another way? I am extremely tempted to put a 5a fused spur next to socket, drill through wall and run up exterior wall to fitting.

Also if a c/u is on the left side at the front of the house and I need to add a circuit to a room on the right side at the back, how do you go about routing?

Right now I've got a customer who has ordered a hot tub (2nd hand), hes sending me power figures in the morning however the previous owner has said he needs a 20a outdoor socket. I am assuming this is a outdoor socket fed off a 20a fused spur or 20a RCD?

Checking cable capacity it being in insulated wall 2.5mm can tolerate 20a. Main question regarding the hot tub is can I add a 20a fused spur to a ring main?

Would appreciate genuine help instead of ar$ey comments
 
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Ive been working as a sparkys mate since 2014 mainly on commercial new build and recently started doing my own jobs after completing C&G 2365 L2+L3, done my part p, unsure whether to book 17th as 18th comes out soon.

Works decently coming in, main issue im having is not knowing where to route cable i.e customers wanting outdoor security light, must I start lifting floorboards to route a feed off kitchen light or is there another way? I am extremely tempted to put a 5a fused spur next to socket, drill through wall and run up exterior wall to fitting.

OK with a FCU off the rfc

Also if a c/u is on the left side at the front of the house and I need to add a circuit to a room on the right side at the back, how do you go about routing?

can't say without more info

Right now I've got a customer who has ordered a hot tub (2nd hand), hes sending me power figures in the morning however the previous owner has said he needs a 20a outdoor socket. I am assuming this is a outdoor socket fed off a 20a fused spur or 20a RCD?

Checking cable capacity it being in insulated wall 2.5mm can tolerate 20a. Main question regarding the hot tub is can I add a 20a fused spur to a ring main?

better to install a dedicated circuit for the tub. RCD rotection essential

Would appreciate genuine help instead of ar$ey comments

my comments in red.
 
you stick to the commercial side ,batman !
 
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Regarding cable routing.... talk it over with the customer, present them with several options, let them pick and then price accordingly.
 
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Would appreciate genuine help instead of ar$ey comments

To be in this trade you need to grow a thick skin mate, I could rip your post apart and it could be helpful if you had the right mind, but after seeing this perhaps I better say nowt.
 
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For the hottub you would be best served having it on a dedicated circuit with a 20amp DP isolator and ensure the circuit is either rcd protected or rcbo'd at the consumer unit.

As for running circuits and routing cables, there is usually more than one option as @SparkyChick said present the various options and the customer can decide. explain the pros and cons of each and reflect this in your pricing.

Question though? if you are going to be doing new circuits how are you notifying this? as without your 17th edition id be keen to know how you joined a scheme... or are you going via previous employer building control etc.....????
 
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@Gavin John Hyde @SparkyChick @telectrix Thanks for that I will be running a new circuit in using an RCBO for the hot tub, in regards to certificates a sparky I worked with checks my work and certifies it under himself for a small fee as hes with Napit.
@buzzlightyear why does the customer buying a 2nd hand hot tub make me a joker? In regards to your earlier comment about sticking to commercial I'm not getting commercial work so
@MDJ i dont mind if you ripped it and I could learn from it but if your just ripping it without me gaining anything then not interested
 
in regards to certificates a sparky I worked with checks my work and certifies it under himself for a small fee as hes with Napit.
yeah ,till the wheels falls off ,and any thing goes wrong he's the one that signs it off . and he put wright !
 
When the wheels fall off I'll let you know buzz
if you asked me to sign it off .it would cost you 2 bit coins & a holiday in the sun and cruise .
 
I remember signing of good friend of mine ,when he did the extension.for some friends what a f**k up .he could not sign it off his self .the local authority was breathing down his neck .it cost him a lot and had the local sheriff breathing down my neck .never again .
 
I remember signing of good friend of mine ,when he did the extension.for some friends what a f**k up .he could not sign it off his self .the local authority was breathing down his neck .it cost him a lot and had the local sheriff breathing down my neck .never again .

I can appreciate that. The spark that signs mine off taught me a lot and I worked with him for 2 years so he knows the quality of my work but does give it a one over for his own peace of mind. I triple check my work and connections and take pride in what I do so wouldn't call him to check it unless I was completely certain that it is safe and secure.
 
I can appreciate that. The spark that signs mine off taught me a lot and I worked with him for 2 years so he knows the quality of my work but does give it a one over for his own peace of mind. I triple check my work and connections and take pride in what I do so wouldn't call him to check it unless I was completely certain that it is safe and secure.
all well a good ,but it would be better for him to be their when you start doing the work and test after is completed .
 
all well a good ,but it would be better for him to be their when you start doing the work and test after is completed .

I am looking into joining NICEIC domestic installer scheme myself after I save the coin for a 1651 or 1652.
Like I said the main issue I'm having is the routing of the cable and not having the confidence within myself to pull up someones carpet and floorboards
 
Like I said the main issue I'm having is the routing of the cable and not having the confidence within myself to pull up someones carpet and floorboards
maybe you should have a fellow spark on the job to guide you ,so you can work a plan of exaction.
 
I am surprised you have not done a lot of floorboards and so on already having worked at installing for four years as good as. But yeh the electrics is one thing and the routing of cables another. Had to put in a circuit for a boiler in a built in wardrobe with T&G flooring. It was a b£$%%%r getting it up without damage. Getting behind mouldings and picture rails is all a bit of an art all in all. To get the floorboards upstairs up is murder if the room is packed to the gunnells with peoples paraphernalia etc. So yeh the spur route is better for you and me, if the client agrees. They usually would when you tell them to clear the room and the extra cost of floorboards up etc. You did not mention where or how the light is going to be switched? I normally issue a contract and state it would be advisable to get a carpet fitter for refitting the carpet by the way. As I am not a carpet fitter. I also take photos of the existing damage/situation before work. And don't forget to check earthing prior to work and so on.
 
@Vortigern Majority of my work was done on commercials in suspended ceilings and conduit or trunked to walls. Also on new builds so just feeding through walls and ceilings before the boarders hit it.
I think I will be a bit more confident if I advise them to get a carpet fitter round to have it sitting true and proper again.
I will be using a switched spur but the light will have a PIR as its a garden security light. Thanks for your response
 
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