Glands without shrouds?

[davesparks]

Personally I think A CW SWA gland looks a lot better in a finished job without the shroud than they do with it, especially when there are 8 RGM glands in a row next to it, but does any one know of any reason why not fitting the shroud would be a problem?
The gland is indoors in a dry and heated space so no worries about environmental considerations, and even if there were I think the shroud only ever serves to trap moisture around the gland which achieves a high IP rating on its own.

Obviously the shroud is useful for some people if they are not very good at actually fitting the gland properly, but I like to think I'm reasonably capable of fitting an SWA gland properly

 

[Lucien Nunes]

Can't see why not on a CW. I assume the MI is bare too?

 

[davesparks]

Can't see why not on a CW. I assume the MI is bare too?

Its bare everywhere it's visible, where its hidden/buried it's plastic coated and I've just stripped it from floor level upwards.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

Neat, go with the bare SWA glands then. 50 years ago it might have been bare armour too. Can look very smart in context.

 

[davesparks]

Neat, go with the bare SWA glands then. 50 years ago it might have been bare armour too. Can look very smart in context.

This is a wooden garden building which has been painted a sort of tanning salon brown colour do the bare cooper looks good.

I've come across bare SWA in a few places, usually old theatres

 

[davesparks]

Interestingly the spec on BW glands from BiCon says that shrouds MAY be used, not that it's an essential part of the gland.

Now on to the next problem I have come up against!
Has anyone ever come across a situation where a normal pot wrench won't grip the pot because the top of the pot sits below the end of the threaded section of the gland?

It confused me a bit at first, but naturally got,over it once I'd worked out what was going on.

 

[Martin Kerr]

Are you not supposed to crimp the pot before tighting up the gland ?

 

[Lucien Nunes]

Yes, annoying mismatch, IIRC there's a C-shaped piece of 2.5 copper lying in the bottom of the kit from exactly that situation. Have you tried the ratchet grip wrench, ZRP? I'm tempted to get one but it doesn't provide any means to guide the pot on so didn't find much advantage over pliers.

 

[davesparks]

Yes, annoying mismatch, IIRC there's a C-shaped piece of 2.5 copper lying in the bottom of the kit from exactly that situation. Have you tried the ratchet grip wrench, ZRP? I'm tempted to get one but it doesn't provide any means to guide the pot on so didn't find much advantage over pliers.

I tried a ZRP wrench once, it was useless and no better than a pair of grips as it is very hard to apply pressure in line with cable rather than the inevitable angle introduced by a tool which you grip to one side of the pot. I have seen in old books that they did once make some pliers with jaws shaped specifically to grip a pot.

My solution was quite simple though, take the crimping plate out of the crimper and turn it up the other way so that the teeth point upwards. Then you can gently clamp the pot in the crimper without deforming the top edge and screw it on easily. This way you can apply pressure directly in line with the cable the same as you would with the normal pot wrench.

It's the glands causing the issue in this case with an extra long thread section, I compared them to some others I had and some other pots.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

ATEX 02 enhanced type? All I did was put a C-shaped spacer around the cable in the back of the gland to hold the pot forward, and drop it off afterwards. I'm with you on the ZRP though, and I have a set of those pliers with the concave jaws although I don't think they were specifically an MI tool. Or had, as I can't think where they are now. With all the pushfit plumbing around these days, I'm surprised we don't have push-fit pots. Retaining claw ring in a groove and an optional o-ring.