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The place in which I work, has a swimming pool. In the pool area is a switch to control the lighting. The switch (according to the manufacturer) is not suitable for that environment.

It would appear to be a design fault, in that the electrical contractor and the glass entrance door installer, didn't liaise over the location of their products, and the switch ended up pool side of the entrance door.

The switch is failing, and apparently the manufacturer has nothing else to offer. A new one is on its way (£350!).

The switched can't be moved, without considerable disruption, tiled walls etc. Although, I think when we've been through a few, that might become an option.

In the meantime, I was wondering if I could source a cover for the new switch? Something like this American thing;
IP rated switchcover Switch cover - EletriciansForums.net
or
IP rated switchcover Switch cover 2 - EletriciansForums.net Needs to be IP rated as the warm/damp/chlorine air is not doing the switch any good. Needs to look atheistically pleasing as well.
Any ideas?
 
Hadn't had the switch off yet, but guessing it some extra low voltage scene setting switch, with remote dimmer.
 
Thanks, wouldn’t look that great in this case.

Seen something like this;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/JimTw-UK-W...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Z5RGHBK1C6J4NT3BDC3J

Not particularly great, and dirt great whole in the bottom, but better than naught. So still looking. Will get pic of switch.
Those ones are not particularly waterproof as such, they would stop the switch getting splashed but that is about it. Though they are in general fairly neat.
Perhaps the "MK shield" switch cover would be OK rated at IP55, however you would need to open the cover to operate the switch and again not nice to look at.
Alternatively get an 8cm clear silicone square mould and glue it over the switch!
 
It’s not at risk from water splashes, it’s just been installed in an unsuitable environment, i.e the damp chlorine air of a swimming pool. The old switch is just had enough of being there!

Something just to stop the air circulation, is what I’m thinking of trying. As said, once we’ve been through a few of them, a more permanent solution will need to be found.

Did, think of using the MK Splashguard lid/cover, but think that might be too complicated and ugly.

Something to mastic in place over the top, will suffice for now.
 
The ‘switch’ is a Ex-Or control panel by Honeywell. As said it cost £350; having not had anything to do with lighting control systems, I contacted the manufacturer. I was a bit worried about how to power down the main dimmer panel and connecting the new control panel.

It seems a simple process, however their tech department states the new control panel will need commissioning/programming by one of their engineers.

Their charge is £600 per day :eek:

Anybody had anything to do with this product?
 
Is the switch wired as part of the bus or is it wired to the selv inputs?
You can pick up a quick set pro programmer for a couple of hundred quid..
they are a fiddle you will soon get the hang of it and then you can recoup your money with your first £600/day invoice :)
 
My feeling is that this is just a keypad/controller the main unit is what holds the programmable information. I think that you will have the same problem in the future with the replacement.
 
When you say the switch is failing I take it you don't just mean the metal is tarnishing?
 
When you say the switch is failing I take it you don't just mean the metal is tarnishing?

No some of the buttons are not functioning. We have many others in suitable environments, that are still working ok. Its either the swimming pool environment, or we have just been unlucky. This one, the faceplate fell off, the push in contact fixings failed (the welds failed). My money is on the wet, warm chlorine air, doing the damage.
 
No some of the buttons are not functioning. We have many others in suitable environments, that are still working ok. Its either the swimming pool environment, or we have just been unlucky. This one, the faceplate fell off, the push in contact fixings failed (the welds failed). My money is on the wet, warm chlorine air, doing the damage.
Then IMO the unit needs relocating even with one of those covers it's not going to be airtight and whilst it will slow the degrading down it will not prevent it continuing.
 
Then IMO the unit needs relocating even with one of those covers it's not going to be airtight and whilst it will slow the degrading down it will not prevent it continuing.

Yep I know, going back to my OP. Relocating is not an easy option, something which might have to happen.
 

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