Q1. So when I went to look at the flat, I could see that there was a wired extractor fan, and could see that the flexible plastic ducting was going into a straight pvc ducting which was rectangular shaped (I saw this through a missing plasterboard). I tried to see where the straight duct went, it went through a plasterboard and I could not see it anymore. The ducting total was definitely over 3metres.
I am guessing this needs to be a centrifugal fan or have a inline fan for more ooomph (suction power)?
Alsoooo, for the kitchen layout, they want only 2 double sockets on show. the grid switch will be in the head height units. As it wont be built into a frame, I will just screw it on the side, I was thinking to put the hob on the grid switch. The hob grid switch will then do a contactor in the fuseboard... I've seen fusebox do a 2pole contactor. I have never installed a contactor before but I know how they work. The tester who will be testing the flat says the contactor might make a humming buzzing noise.
Questions I have:
Q2a. Will the contactor make a humming sound? it will be 40a double pole.
Q2b. Can I put the contactor at the end of the board (RCBO board)? Cant put it next to the 32amp RCBO because of the busbar.
Q2c. Can I use a 32amp breaker to feed the IN of the contactor with a 6mm and use the 32amp RCBO to feed the grid switch with a 1.5mm? (Both 6mm and 1.5mm going into the RCBO)
Q2d. If I put the contactor in, was thinking to put a manual override switch near the consumer unit somewhere (utility room) in case the contactor fails and until it gets replaced. The way I was going to wire the manual over ride: Link the L&N of the IN terminals of the contactor to the supply of the cooker switch. Link the L&N of the OUT terminals of the contactor to the load of the cooker switch. The OUT terminals of the contactor will also have a straight 6mm to the hob outlet plate.
I can make a drawing for question 2 and post it if it helps to understand what I am asking?
I am guessing this needs to be a centrifugal fan or have a inline fan for more ooomph (suction power)?
Alsoooo, for the kitchen layout, they want only 2 double sockets on show. the grid switch will be in the head height units. As it wont be built into a frame, I will just screw it on the side, I was thinking to put the hob on the grid switch. The hob grid switch will then do a contactor in the fuseboard... I've seen fusebox do a 2pole contactor. I have never installed a contactor before but I know how they work. The tester who will be testing the flat says the contactor might make a humming buzzing noise.
Questions I have:
Q2a. Will the contactor make a humming sound? it will be 40a double pole.
Q2b. Can I put the contactor at the end of the board (RCBO board)? Cant put it next to the 32amp RCBO because of the busbar.
Q2c. Can I use a 32amp breaker to feed the IN of the contactor with a 6mm and use the 32amp RCBO to feed the grid switch with a 1.5mm? (Both 6mm and 1.5mm going into the RCBO)
Q2d. If I put the contactor in, was thinking to put a manual override switch near the consumer unit somewhere (utility room) in case the contactor fails and until it gets replaced. The way I was going to wire the manual over ride: Link the L&N of the IN terminals of the contactor to the supply of the cooker switch. Link the L&N of the OUT terminals of the contactor to the load of the cooker switch. The OUT terminals of the contactor will also have a straight 6mm to the hob outlet plate.
I can make a drawing for question 2 and post it if it helps to understand what I am asking?