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Q1. So when I went to look at the flat, I could see that there was a wired extractor fan, and could see that the flexible plastic ducting was going into a straight pvc ducting which was rectangular shaped (I saw this through a missing plasterboard). I tried to see where the straight duct went, it went through a plasterboard and I could not see it anymore. The ducting total was definitely over 3metres.
I am guessing this needs to be a centrifugal fan or have a inline fan for more ooomph (suction power)?

Alsoooo, for the kitchen layout, they want only 2 double sockets on show. the grid switch will be in the head height units. As it wont be built into a frame, I will just screw it on the side, I was thinking to put the hob on the grid switch. The hob grid switch will then do a contactor in the fuseboard... I've seen fusebox do a 2pole contactor. I have never installed a contactor before but I know how they work. The tester who will be testing the flat says the contactor might make a humming buzzing noise.
Questions I have:
Q2a. Will the contactor make a humming sound? it will be 40a double pole.
Q2b. Can I put the contactor at the end of the board (RCBO board)? Cant put it next to the 32amp RCBO because of the busbar.
Q2c. Can I use a 32amp breaker to feed the IN of the contactor with a 6mm and use the 32amp RCBO to feed the grid switch with a 1.5mm? (Both 6mm and 1.5mm going into the RCBO)
Q2d. If I put the contactor in, was thinking to put a manual override switch near the consumer unit somewhere (utility room) in case the contactor fails and until it gets replaced. The way I was going to wire the manual over ride: Link the L&N of the IN terminals of the contactor to the supply of the cooker switch. Link the L&N of the OUT terminals of the contactor to the load of the cooker switch. The OUT terminals of the contactor will also have a straight 6mm to the hob outlet plate.

I can make a drawing for question 2 and post it if it helps to understand what I am asking?
 
The contactor appears to be a huge overcomplication for a domestic situation and I would also suggest avoiding it and using a normal isolator. Fitting a bypass switch that could be switched on accidentally, defeats the purpose of the control switch in the kitchen. E.g. if something on the hob catches fire and the person in the kitchen turns off the control switch, if the bypass switch is on the cooker will remain on unexpectedly.

Contactors should not normally hum significantly but they can occasionally. There are special low-noise types available if required. If you run the control circuit in 1.5mm² then you will want to fuse it down so that it is not relying on the 32A MCB for fault protection.
 
Question... why do you feel the need to use a contactor for this?
Because they want the grid/hob stuff hidden, the kitchen cupboards are the only place. I was thinking as there is: microwave, fridgefreezer, dishwasher, oven, hood and hob. I can fill the 6 in a grid switch rather than have 5 grid switch button, then a hob separate. Mainly for accessibility. Also if I do put it like that, taking the 6mm in the cupboard to near the front will be kind of messy? (Bigger trunking to accommodate the grid cables and the 6mm hob cable). I was thinking to put them in the eyelevel cupboards rather than the knee level cupboards to avoid bending down all the time? I am open to all ideas. I know I'm going over the top with the contactor lol. On the splash back they just want a socket on the left of the hob and one between the hob and sink. I can post the kitchen drawing if you'd like to see? then can you tell me where you would put them?
 
The contactor appears to be a huge overcomplication for a domestic situation and I would also suggest avoiding it and using a normal isolator. Fitting a bypass switch that could be switched on accidentally, defeats the purpose of the control switch in the kitchen. E.g. if something on the hob catches fire and the person in the kitchen turns off the control switch, if the bypass switch is on the cooker will remain on unexpectedly.

Contactors should not normally hum significantly but they can occasionally. There are special low-noise types available if required. If you run the control circuit in 1.5mm² then you will want to fuse it down so that it is not relying on the 32A MCB for fault protection.
The manual override switch would be place in the utility cupboard so it will not be accidentally put on and it would be specifically explained that this is only to be used if the contactor fails, but that is a good point. Also silly me, I didn't think about protecting the baby cable, so to do this it would need to be protected by a 6amp? I am going to post the drawing, could you tell me what cupboard you would put it in and how (not asking for wiring diagram lol) as in what box where? there is microwave, fridge freezer, oven, hob, dishwasher and cooker hood.
 
here are the drawings
Question... why do you feel the need to use a contactor for this?
The contactor appears to be a huge overcomplication for a domestic situation and I would also suggest avoiding it and using a normal isolator. Fitting a bypass switch that could be switched on accidentally, defeats the purpose of the control switch in the kitchen. E.g. if something on the hob catches fire and the person in the kitchen turns off the control switch, if the bypass switch is on the cooker will remain on unexpectedly.

Contactors should not normally hum significantly but they can occasionally. There are special low-noise types available if required. If you run the control circuit in 1.5mm² then you will want to fuse it down so that it is not relying on the 32A MCB for fault protection.
 

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