Replacing a 13A plug fuse with solid brass

[westward10]

You can also get fused 15A plugs but the British Standard only permits a maximum 5A fuse, solid link time?

 

[John-SJW]

You can also get fused 15A plugs but the British Standard only permits a maximum 5A fuse, solid link time?

You can still use BS 546 style round pin fuseless plugs and sockets according to BS7671. These are 2A, 5A and 15A, as long as the socket is shuttered.

15A round pin fuseless plugs are not allowed directly on final ring circuits only square pin 13A fused. See: BS7671. section: 433.1.204.

BS 546, 2A, 5A and 15A are permitted on radials, and that is also a radial spur off a final ring. See: BS7671. section: 553.1.3 Table 55.1.

So you can have a 13A FCU off a Final Ring Circuit, with a 15A fuseless round pin BS 546 say behind a washing machine. Which is the best way to go in such a situation, so the fuse is not inaccessible. And to keep a 13A plug from overheating around the fuse in a continuous 13A current draw.

You can have a 15A mcb with a number of BS 546 15A fuseless plugs on a radial in your home. All legal and above board.

 

[nicebutdim]

Perhaps you might explain the reasoning behind wanting to explore this particular line of thinking, given the infrequent occurrence of blown appliance fuses? It seems as though many respondents, myself included, struggle to comprehend the problem you're seeking to overcome.

 

[John-SJW]

Perhaps you might explain the reasoning behind wanting to explore this particular line of thinking, given the infrequent occurrence of blown appliance fuses? It seems as though many respondents, myself included, struggle to comprehend the problem you're seeking to overcome.

I recapped that a few times in the thread. People do not read the whole thread just the last couple of posts.
But you might have noticed this in my last post:

"And to keep a 13A plug from overheating around the fuse in a continuous 13A current draw."

This was used on a tumble dryer. Moulded a well. This rarely happens using 15A round pin.

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

Don't think I've ever had an appliance in my home blow a fuse. Might be because we buy decent appliances and not cheap crap...

 

[westward10]

Why would an appliance have a continuous 13A draw.

 

[IAmSparkytus!]

Why would an appliance have a continuous 13A draw.

Because he clearly buys cheap crap faulty appliances ?

 

[John-SJW]

Why would an appliance have a continuous 13A draw.

Tumble dryers do. Especially with large families when it could be on for hours and hours on end with continuous loads one after the other.

 

[westward10]

I recapped that a few times in the thread. People do not read the whole thread just the last couple of posts.
But you might have noticed this in my last post:

"And to keep a 13A plug from overheating around the fuse in a continuous 13A current draw."

This was used on a tumble dryer. Moulded a well. This rarely happens using 15A round pin.

View attachment 91298

That doesn't look like a fuse issue as both pins have suffered thermal damage.

 

[John-SJW]

All appliances cheap and expensive should be safe. Fixing a superior plug minimises fire risk, if faulty manufacture.

 

[John-SJW]

That doesn't look like a fuse issue as both pins have suffered thermal damage.

Clearly where the fuse is. If the plug is hidden?

 

[westward10]

Clearly where the fuse is. If the plug is hidden?
View attachment 91308

That is a different plug. The moulded plug to me has not been damaged from the fuse. Was the fuse cover thermally damaged.

 

[John-SJW]

That is a different plug. The moulded plug to me has not been damaged from the fuse.

Just making a point. A 15A fuseless plug without a fuse, as opposed to 13A with a fuse, is more manly being far less likely to overheat. And no nuisance fuse blowing or inaccessible fuses.

 

[westward10]

Just making a point. A 15A fuseless plug without a fuse, as opposed to 13A with a fuse, is more manly being far less likely to overheat

Yes but that moulded plug doesn't appear to be damaged because of the fuse so how would a solid link make any difference. You seem to be drifting from ruptured fuses to thermally damaged plugs which a solid link would not resolve.

 

[7029 dave]

Yes but that moulded plug doesn't appear to be damaged because of the fuse so how would a solid link make any difference. You seem to be drifting from ruptured fuses to thermally damaged plugs which a solid link would not resolve.

Lets close this thread now please ??

 

[John-SJW]

Yes but that moulded plug doesn't appear to be damaged because of the fuse so how would a solid link make any difference. You seem to be drifting from ruptured fuses to thermally damaged plugs which a solid link would not resolve.

That may be the case, but the points are:
1) a 15A plug can take more current;
2) no fuse avoids a hot spot.
3) a potential hot spot is hidden.

 

[westward10]

That may be the case, but the points are:
1) a 15A plug can take more current;
2) no fuse avoids a hot spot.

Well it is the case. No one is denying a 15A plug can take more current.

 

[westward10]

Can we keep this friendly or I will close it.

 

[John-SJW]

Can we keep this friendly or I will close it.

Just tell the self centred thought police to keep away. If I do not like a thread I do not go on telling the mod to close it down. I am not that stupid or self centred like that.

 

[DPG]

That may be the case, but the points are:
1) a 15A plug can take more current;
2) no fuse avoids a hot spot.
3) a potential hot spot is hidden.

Incorrect to say 'no fuse avoids a hot spot'. Even if you had a solid link, it could still suffer from poor contact with the fuse clips, just like a fuse can.

I admire your persistence, but you are not really getting anywhere.