Sockets behind kitchen kick boards

[Michaelwgroves]

I'm looking for some ideas;
with a lot of washing machines and undercounter appliances being 600mm deep you can't risk putting services behind these, so I find the safest way is to install sockets and cooker outlets behind the kick boards.
Fine for everyone bar the sparky.
It's a real pain second fixing and testing. I use deep surface back boxes to get a little closer, but it's still tiring laying on the floor with your arms stretch out in front of you.
i looked at bench sockets but these are expensive. A cheaper option would be fix a piece of 1" * 4" timber to the floor and fix to this; would that be okay?
Does anyone have any good ideas, or do I just need to man up?

thanks
Michael

 

[Andy78]

I think you need to change your installation methods as a socket under kickboards is probably non compliant and also has no basis in common sense.

 

[Octopus]

In the adjacent cupboard. Behind kick board did very cow boy imho

 

[rolyberkin]

In the cupboard adjacent, sounds like a recipe for disaster when you have a flood from one of said appliances!?

 

[DPG]

In the cupboard adjacent, sounds like a recipe for disaster when you have a flood from one of said appliances!?

Have to be a pretty deep flood to reach a socket at the top of a cupboard. Daz

 

[Geordie Spark]

In the cupboard adjacent, sounds like a recipe for disaster when you have a flood from one of said appliances!?

Notice he said WHEN and not IF !! :yes:

 

[Octopus]

Have to be a pretty deep flood to reach a socket at the top of a cupboard. Daz

Mind you, the top of the cupboard would stay dryer longer, than behind the kick boards!!

 

[DPG]

Good point

 

[Flanders]

Most kitchen fitters fit the sockets in the adjacent cupboards with a switch above on the wall so the appliance can be isolated , i have seen this in the past with even the expensive kitchens ,can't see anything wrong with this just a bit ruff in my eyes I personaly would fit 13 amp fsu above the worktop and flex outlets below for fitted appliance or a 20 amp switch above the worktop and a 13 amp unswitched socket below for free standing appliances all chased in the walls not surface.

 

[Midwest]

Adjacent cupboards for me. Seems to me a lot of appliances, free standing or otherwise, pretty much take up all of the depth of the floor unit nowadays, leaving precious little room for socket & plug top. 20amp switch & socket below would be my preferred option, but some customers like the minimalist look. Grid switch bank for new builds, seem common now but suppose that's to comply with Part M and I think it looks pants IMO. Don't think flex outlets is a good idea IMO, don't like trying to squeeze into 600x600 box to wire up appliance.

Chasing end sockets into walls is fine, until the customer moves the dishwasher etc.

 

[rolyberkin]

Have to be a pretty deep flood to reach a socket at the top of a cupboard. Daz

Okay, so I needed a full stop rather than a comma!

 

[123]

20A DP Switch above worktop and flex and trailing socket below it works just fine for me, no issues with integrated appliances.

 

[sparksburnout]

20A DP Switch above worktop and flex and trailing socket below it works just fine for me, no issues with integrated appliances.

Trailing socket?

 

[DPG]

Trailing socket?

To keep things as small as possible presumably, so that it fits behind the built in appliance. Have heard of this being done before. Daz

 

[123]

Trailing socket?

Yes. Flex drops down from 20A DP Switch to below worktop and is connected into a trailing socket (a 1 Gang Extension Lead if you like).

Gives flexibility if the kitchen changes layout a little (and it can do in new builds). Also better than flex plates or sockets in cupboards as the kitchen fitter can and will plug in the integrated appliance and everything is good to go.

 

[madmaz]

This is how I do it too always use a trailing socket, sometimes fed from a fcu within a cupboard it saves drilling huge holes in the units, I usually buy 1g extension leads and cut the plug off to save time

 

[LankyWill]

Grid Switch- Single socket on the wall then a 4'' holesaw in the back of the carcus for the plug to go through to the socket. SIMPLES. Get in before the kitchen is ruffed in, so you can work with ease if not get the apprentice to fit it.....

 

[123]

Grid Switch- Single socket on the wall then a 4'' holesaw in the back of the carcus for the plug to go through to the socket. SIMPLES. Get in before the kitchen is ruffed in, so you can work with ease if not get the apprentice to fit it.....

Sounds rough as imo. I think if that was done for any of the kitchen companies I do work for I'd be presented with a repairs bill at the end of the job.

 

[LankyWill]

Sounds rough as imo. I think if that was done for any of the kitchen companies I do work for I'd be presented with a repairs bill at the end of the job.

Not really that rough mate as the integrated appliance is directly in front of the hole so nobody can see it. If you want to be a yes man you could put in a 4'' plastic door for the hole for a more cleaner look. But remember its a practical solution and better than sockets strung along the floor.

 

[sparksburnout]

Sounds rough as imo. I think if that was done for any of the kitchen companies I do work for I'd be presented with a repairs bill at the end of the job.

Rough?? And leaving a "trailing" socket is not rough then??