lose a nuatral then your buggered ,TT IT .44 mtrs away .

Distance is irrelevant to this
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Those "weedy" TT rods are relied upon in the majority of Europe where the Electrical Authorities do not supply an Earth.

Great, but how is that relevant?

'someone else did it so it's OK for me to do it' sounds more like a child in a playground than an intelligent adult.
 
It's relevant because most of Europe use it as an acceptable means of supplying an Earth, so it should not be discounted, now put your toys back in your pram.
 
These sort of statements always confound logic.
What if you TT and someone cuts the earth lead to the rod? What if the RCD you are totally reliant on for earth fault protection fails?
No electrical system is immune from faults and a TT has every bit as much potential for danger as a TNCS. And what difference does the distance from the supply make? 4m is safe but 44 isnt
none above whether a fault accrues you are relying on a earth from the DNO on their system when a neutral goes down and then what..
 
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The thing is Buzz it's no more likely to happen than any other potentially dangerous defect on any system. I've seen failed RCD's on TT systems which would cause a shock hazard in the event of an earth fault. The risk of a broken neutral on TNCS systems it miniscule, it simply isn't worth worrying about for an external shed installation which isn't even considered sufficiently hazardous to be classed as a special location in Bs7671.
 
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Exactly, all about balancing the risks.
 
Evening
So finally back.
so to recap it looks like no TT
but I'd still like to know which method people would use for testing a TT system
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love watching his stuff
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Assuming this is a general question, then my answer is you are trading off:
  • Reduced risk of a PME-fault making bonded (Earthed to most folk) equipment live.
  • Increased dependency on the RCD action to clear any fault (which is less reliable then the MCB trip action).
Now I don't really have any numerical values of the probability of either fault leading to death/injury so I can't honestly advise either way. But if going TT then I personally would spend the extra to have a 100mA S-type incomer and separate 30mA RCBOs on the final circuits to avoid any single point of failure in earth fault protection.
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With TT you have two things to test as both are needed for fault clearing:
  • Earth rod impedance
  • RCD trip action
Testing the RCD is standard for any MFT, the issue really is the earth rod and making sure it is reliably below 200 ohms (for most systems at 100mA/30mA RCD action).

Testing the rod without AC power is more fundamental, but needs suitable test equipment and many MFT lack that capability, and usually involves a bit of poking rods in the ground at a fair distance to see if you get the plateau for the "fall of potential" result. But there are various other test approaches (mostly more expensive in equipment to carry out).

If you have AC power then simply using your MFT to do a Zs measurement with the rod as the earth is easiest, but needs more care and may lead to the unfortunate case of finding out it is not good enough and having to isolate it again before getting another rod (assuming the first was not driven down far enough).

That is another risk with going TT - you need a earth rod (or equivalent reliable connection to Earth) and some folk just hammer it in without checking if there are buried pipes or cables in the area!
sorry missed this before I posted
My MFT has the ability to use the 3 leads and I've done it once and it did seem very long winded that's why I asked just to check that I'm not being lazy and testing like you would do a Ze is just as good?
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38 amps for a shed?
your question mark leads to to think that my method of just adding the 32 and 6 amp is a little over the top and I might be erring too much on the side of caution.
 
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Megger do a much more in-depth guide to earth impedance testing, here is one of them (just follow the download button):

However, I remember seeing another Megger guide that covered earth red specifically and how to check situations like sub-station where you may not get far enough away for fall-of-potential to be accurate, etc.
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Here it is. Well worth keeping a copy (and reading it) if you ever do need to put in earth rods and it really matters (e.g. if you need well below 200 ohms for a special installation with high current RCD on TT, or it has to be below 10 ohms for lightning guide lines, etc):
 
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Someones up early
thanks for that but I have the same info for my megger my question was would you do it the long way round or is doing it as a Ze just being lazy

IMO there is only one way to do the test correctly.
 
your question mark leads to to think that my method of just adding the 32 and 6 amp is a little over the top and I might be erring too much on the side of caution.
What is the intended use of the shed? A couple of sockets for power tools and a light fitting will only have low demand.

The average 3 bed house won't even draw that much current, yes I know there will be exceptions such as electric showers, water heaters etc.

thanks for that but I have the same info for my megger my question was would you do it the long way round or is doing it as a Ze just being laz
The Ze method of testing an electrode is a recognised method in GN3. Infact this is often the only way I can test a lot of street cabinets as they're often surrounded by tarmac/concrete so I can't get the test electrodes in and the trailing leads would pose a trip hazard to members of the public.
 
It's relevant because most of Europe use it as an acceptable means of supplying an Earth, so it should not be discounted, now put your toys back in your pram.

Other countries do it therefore we should lower our standards to match theirs?

What is a typical Ra for these rods used in Europe? What is their fault current handling ability?
What size is the typical incoming supply?
What is the typical PFC of their supplies?
 
IMO there is only one way to do the test correctly.
What is that?

The Megger guide shows half a dozen with various pros and cons! But as @Strima has already said, what is practical to do might be the overall determining factor, and to some degree GN3 is about practical ways to ensure a system is OK.
 
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What is the intended use of the shed? A couple of sockets for power tools and a light fitting will only have low demand.

The average 3 bed house won't even draw that much current, yes I know there will be exceptions such as electric showers, water heaters etc.


The Ze method of testing an electrode is a recognised method in GN3. Infact this is often the only way I can test a lot of street cabinets as they're often surrounded by tarmac/concrete so I can't get the test electrodes in and the trailing leads would pose a trip hazard to members of the public.
I have no idea what they are going to run from there. All I do know is that they will want to run the small pool pump with is on a 13amp plus they have mentioned heating so that a 3Kw panel heater so I'm assuming a computer and the bits that go with it, maybe a small fridge and a kettle and some lights.

and thanks for the reply on the Ze
 
I only have the means to carry out an earth loop impedance test on an electrode and consider that adequate for compliance.
 
Well it seems that we have covered this thread.
and it looks like I wont be turning this job into a TT but in future if I have to turn a job into a TT I'll be testing as per Ze.
I have another question that has come up after a comment from Strima but I'll start a new thread for that one so just saying thanks again for your input
 
Using a loop impedance test is accepted if the installation is protected by RCD.

I think this is because the RCD will still work OK if the measured value isn't entirely correct.

For anything where the resistance needs to be measured reliably/accurately an earth electrode test is needed.
 

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