Veritas R8 alarm Control Panel Sound Problem

[silverbantam]

My house has a self-contained basement on the bottom floor which has its own fuse box and alarm system. However the fuse boxes and alarm control panels for the main house and basement are all in the basement.

I am looking to rent out the basement so I have asked an electrician to move the fuse box for the main house upstairs but when I mentioned the alarm control panel he said it would be easier to keep it where it was but to turn the sound off on that control panel.

Both alarms are Veritas R8. I have looked at the instruction books but can't find anything on turning off the sound to the control panel (it makes a sound when you set the alarm).

Any advice please ?

 

[telectrix]

i'd move the control panel.

 

[silverbantam]

I don't think my electrician wants to move it for some reason !

 

[tazz]

You can disconnect the speaker wires inside the control panel....2 white wires to pcb

 

[silverbantam]

What about just removing the fuse for the speaker?

 

[tazz]

What about just removing the fuse for the speaker?

No F2 fuse is also aux supply for pirs etc

 

[silverbantam]

I thought it was the F3 fuse ?

 

[tazz]

F3 on compact panel version, and again aux supply

 

[silverbantam]

Disconnecting one of the speaker wires worked. Thanks.

The tamper lights are on, on 2 of the keypads. How do I turn them off ?

 

[tazz]

enter code and press reset

 

[silverbantam]

enter code and press reset

Tried that but light still on.

 

[tazz]

The control panel cover is not on correctly

 

[silverbantam]

The control panel cover is not on correctly

Just checked it. Seems to be on ok.

There's 4 keypads and the tamper light is on, on 3 of them.
i reset the tamper yesterday by pressing the spring 3 times in the control panel.

 

[tazz]

Worth a try, but haven`t heard of resetting tamper this way......is the panel programmed for engineer reset only after an alarm...?

 

[tazz]

Presume its now sorted and ok

 

[silverbantam]

The alarm works ok but the tamper lights are on 3 of the keypads

 

[tazz]

And the main control panel....enter engineer code the reset

 

[silverbantam]

And the main control panel....enter engineer code the reset

There isn't a tamper light on the control panel is there ?
Tried the engineer code, still the same.

 

[tazz]

yes is marked 24hr

 

[silverbantam]

The control panel only has one light which us not marked

 

[silverbantam]

This is the keypad

 

[tazz]

Ok this is not a compact, tamper indicates cover loose on main panel, pir sensor, keypad cover or bell box cover.....or panel has been set to engineer only reset......need to check all of these

 

[silverbantam]

What would I do if the panel has been set to engineer only reset ?

 

[tazz]

enter engineer code possible 9999, other than, would need panel reset back to default 9999.....are you under a contract with the firm who installed the system

 

[silverbantam]

i know my engineer code but I can't get the tamper lights to go off on the panels.

 

[tazz]

On some models, the is a jumper pin, just below tamper spring, refit jumper as see if tamper light goes.

 

[silverbantam]

I don't think it has that. This is what it looks like inside the control panel:

 

[tazz]

ok we need to do some tests to find the fault......leave all cables in, and with short piece of wire, bridge out terminals D & C and also short out tamper terminals.....replace cover, and that should get rid of tamper light, then repost you result, and we will go from there

 

[silverbantam]

ok we need to do some tests to find the fault......leave all cables in, and with short piece of wire, bridge out terminals D & C and also short out tamper terminals.....replace cover, and that should get rid of tamper light, then repost you result, and we will go from there

Do you mean just temporarily touch the wire to the terminals ? If go I've tried that and the lights are still on !

 

[tazz]

No, both short cables must be screwed into terminals, with existing cables, and cover replaced

 

[Paul.M]

F1 = Battery 1A
F2 = Bell & sounder 1A
F3 = Aux 12V & speaker 500mA
F4 = Keypad network 500mA
F5 = Power supply 1.6A


On the board at CB5, take out the wires to terminals 6 and 7 (counting from left to right) and place a link in between them, see if that works

 

[tazz]

Going for all tampers first Paul, to check panel, will then remove each wire link to id fault...Diy member, so helping in stages

 

[Paul.M]

I''ve just re-read this thread, Tazz do you agree:-

To the OP- look at the spring tamper switch on the key pads and main control panel that you have removed and make sure the spring clicks when pushed. Now make sure it does that when you put the front cover of the panel back on, you may need to stretch the spring a bit? At this point also check the terminations of the Blue and Yellow wires at each of the opened keypads and main panel. Put all of the fronts back on as above and enter your user code and press reset.

Brighouse is not a million miles away from me (Leeds) and I love a challenge lol. If you get stuck, send me PM and we can scratch our heads in unison lol.

 

[tazz]

LOL Paul, Idea here is both 24hr and bell sab will be linked out, so if fault is still there, then yes, we need to look at tamper springs....so going one stage at a time for fault id, then hopefully we`ll have a conclusion for the OP

 

[Paul.M]

Going by the picture he has 3 x keypads on the same 6 core, thats fine but he is describing a loose connection or a spring in a keypad? Strange how this new fault occurred once he disconnected the sounder? Can you explain this to me Tazz, I dont get it but I'm no expert, trust me.

BTW Tazz I'm re-wiring a domestic system tomorrow from the early 90's, one wire from the panel and spider system from a rats nest of a hidden JB LOL. Only DC+&- going to the 5 PIR's!!! And this was maintained and tested each year for ten years!!! Cowboys, absolute cowboys.

 

[tazz]

Well hopefully, the stage test will show exactly were the tamper fault is coming from, old school link all out and remove one at a time to id .....with your 90`s job, this is not far from it with global tampers...lol...but then 5 pirs on a zone was common then.

 

[Paul.M]

.....with your 90`s job, this is not far from it with global tampers...lol...but then 5 pirs on a zone was common then.

Forgot to mention the PIR in the loft that is in a box with a rats nest of wires, I'll take a pic tomorrow. Customer is a Police Super Inspector of some sorts and knows a few things about alarms and security. He was not impressed when told that his alarm system is about as good as a door bell.

 

[tazz]

Sounds like you have your work cut out there...photos are always useful for members to see some of these so called pro installs

 

[Paul.M]

Sounds like you have your work cut out there...photos are always useful for members to see some of these so called pro installs

I'll take a few pics of the rubbish that some "professionals" leave the customers with. Me personally, I'd be ashamed of spending there hard earned cash. Every note out of my wallet is earnt through gods honest hard work and knowledge and not via the sort cuts. It's very easy to pull the wool over peoples eyes on alarms, just look at what the big boys have been doing for years????????

 

[tazz]

That so true Paul....Maybe we can save the op from this expensive charge

 

[silverbantam]

ok we need to do some tests to find the fault......leave all cables in, and with short piece of wire, bridge out terminals D & C and also short out tamper terminals.....replace cover, and that should get rid of tamper light, then repost you result, and we will go from there

Done that but tamper lights still on

 

[tazz]

ok if both are linked out, and the cover is on, and using code reset, has not turned tamper led off...........then the tamper spring on panel, is faulty, or kepad tamper spring......you need to check the tamper springs are operating when cover in put back on, may need stretching....At least we now know were the fault is. Don`t remove wire links, until switch is sorted.

 

[silverbantam]

ok if both are linked out, and the cover is on, and using code reset, has not turned tamper led off...........then the tamper spring on panel, is faulty, or kepad tamper spring......you need to check the tamper springs are operating when cover in put back on, may need stretching....At least we now know were the fault is. Don`t remove wire links, until switch is sorted.

sorted now. It was the tamper spring on the control panel. Stretched it a bit more now the tamper lights have gone off. I've managed to turn off the speaker as well. Thanks for all your help !

 

[tazz]

No problem...sorry it was long winded, but needed to id were the fault was, you can remove wire links now...and your done

 

[Paul.M]

After all that it was just the spring! Glad you have sorted it out.

Tazz I'll post up a thread with photo's later.

 

[tazz]

True, but had to go through it section at a time, otherwise would end up chasing tails, but full marks Paul, it was the tamper spring.

 

[Paul.M]

but full marks Paul, it was the tamper spring.

Well.... What was disturbed first and what result did it give via a fault light? LETS LOOK AT THAT FIRST. The rest is just alarm engineering and making things work lol.

 

[diyvspro]

I don't think it has that. This is what it looks like inside the control panel:

I have the same board and I also has a tamper fault which is due to the spring. The spring has completely come off, how can I secure it in place? I also purchased a jumper with pins to override the tamper in JP1 next to the tamper spring button but as soon as I let go after putting the pins in the alarm sounds, has to be inserted with some force for the tamper light to turn off but diesnt remain in place. Thank you

 

[diyvspro]

Resolved, jumper pin soldered on and fault resolved.