Pat Testing question, again

[sham]

I started having an discussion with my NICEIC assessor about correct fuses in appliances, telling him that the previous PAT tester did not replace the plug fuses to match that of the rating of the appliance. He said that it was OK and that many electricians do not understand how PAT testing is correctly done. I got on my computer and showed him a previous thread whereas the replies about the fuses was to replace them or place a fail sticker on it. One suggested to even cut the plug off. His response was that I needed to be careful with forums, as most j people debate who is right. Anyway he said that the fuse in the plug is more to do with the lead and not the appliance itself. He said that the appliance has its own protection. I think he was trying to imply that of a class 2 and others have built in protection. Then he started pulling out all these documents on his Ipad and got on my computers internet to show he was right, he was getting serious about it and stressed that I was researching on forums, he even sent me some email links that are BS standards. So has anybody else been told this about plug fuses.

 

[pirate]

Put the correct fuse in, and charge appropriately, as you are providing a service, leaving the appliance properly fused.

 

[Pete999]

I started having an discussion with my NICEIC assessor about correct fuses in appliances, telling him that the previous PAT tester did not replace the plug fuses to match that of the rating of the appliance. He said that it was OK and that many electricians do not understand how PAT testing is correctly done. I got on my computer and showed him a previous thread whereas the replies about the fuses was to replace them or place a fail sticker on it. One suggested to even cut the plug off. His response was that I needed to be careful with forums, as most j people debate who is right. Anyway he said that the fuse in the plug is more to do with the lead and not the appliance itself. He said that the appliance has its own protection. I think he was trying to imply that of a class 2 and others have built in protection. Then he started pulling out all these documents on his Ipad and got on my computers internet to show he was right, he was getting serious about it and stressed that I was researching on forums, he even sent me some email links that are BS standards. So has anybody else been told this about plug fuses.

Not Rocket science is it Mate I (Amps) = V/R or I= P/V work it ou for yourself don't need a Laptop for that calculation, if I was doing PAT then I would carry a selection of fuses, and charge accordingly, if it's worth charging for, cut the plug top off, what a dilbert.

 

[pirate]

Quite right Pete...if it's got a 3A fuse in it, and it's working, leave it alone.
If it's over 700W, 13A...or 5A if it's a power drill or similar with a start-up current...
oh, it's not rocket science, as you said, Pete

 

[Deleted member 105166]

Also worthy of mention as not all carrying out ISITEE are familiar with - the paragraph in 15.12 that states "where a manufacturer's flex is less than 2m in length and has a csa of 0.75mm2 and is fitted with a non-rewirable plug, it may be rated at 10A and be fused to 13A"

 

[pirate]

Yes, but in general 3A and 13A are the only two ratings recognised...however, 5A can be useful, and quite a few extension leads are rated to 10A only, even fully unwound. They are cheap, so carry a few, and always be able to justify your choice..but the sticker-jockeys don't bother, obviously!

 

[Risteard]

He is correct that the fuse is simply to protect the flex. If the appliance needs to be fused down internally for protection then that is the manufacturer's responsibility to provide it - it's certainly not what a BS 1362 fuse is for.

 

[sham]

I'm an Alien I'm a legal alien

Not Rocket science is it Mate I (Amps) = V/R or I= P/V work it ou for yourself don't need a Laptop for that calculation, if I was doing PAT then I would carry a selection of fuses, and charge accordingly, if it's worth charging for, cut the plug top off, what a dilbert.

The questions about the inspector telling me that the fuse rating of the plug is not in relation with the amp rating of the appliance but with the flex of the power lead. He got on my computer to show me documents to prove it.

 

[Adam W]

I'd agree with him about forums - all you're ever going to get is a discussion of different opinions; it's wrong to brand a forum as an "advice resource" or a "Q&A board", especially when you have no real control over which volunteers are dispensing the "advice".

 

[Octopus]

oh the hypocrisy - the NICEIC - the company that thinks it makes up the rules for BS 7671

As for the fuse rating - you should check it and change it where appropriate as part of your test and inspection - its not an "extra" IMHO if you are charging the correct amount.

 

[Pete999]

oh the hypocrisy - the NICEIC - the company that thinks it makes up the rules for BS 7671

As for the fuse rating - you should check it and change it where appropriate as part of your test and inspection - its not an "extra" IMHO if you are charging the correct amount.

A case of getting too big for their boots, do you think Murdoch, when you see the NICEIC strutting their stuff at shows like ELEX, certainly have that feel about, full of self importance, but little else, as long as the Money keeps rolling in.

 

[Octopus]

A case of getting too big for their boots, do you think Murdoch, when you see the NICEIC strutting their stuff at shows like ELEX, certainly have that feel about, full of self importance, but little else, as long as the Money keeps rolling in.

If BS 7671 et al were written with fewer "interpretations" the NICEIC could just get on with sorting out all their cowboys ..........

 

[DPG]

I certainly wouldn't be filling out a fail sticker and adding it to the failure records just for a wrong fuse. The plug is already open and it takes around 5 seconds to change it to the correct value.

And cutting the plug off is not the correct thing to do with a failed appliance. I realise your assessor wasn't saying that though.

 

[sham]

oh the hypocrisy - the NICEIC - the company that thinks it makes up the rules for BS 7671

As for the fuse rating - you should check it and change it where appropriate as part of your test and inspection - its not an "extra" IMHO if you are charging the correct amount.

True, and they act like some enforcement. There pull the wool over peoples eyes.

 

[sham]

I certainly wouldn't be filling out a fail sticker and adding it to the failure records just for a wrong fuse. The plug is already open and it takes around 5 seconds to change it to the correct value.

And cutting the plug off is not the correct thing to do with a failed appliance. I realise your assessor wasn't saying that though.

Yhea, he said that the fuse in the plug is just a fuse in the plug and does not relate to the appliance it's more to do with the power lead, Of course it can not be underrated e.g 1A fuse for Iron. The appliance has it's own protection, either it's class 2, or has a built in fuse or some other means and the sockets are RCD protected in most cases.