Discuss Fusing Down Extract Fan To 3A in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

I always fit an isolator without fail. Safer and more convenient. I was just asking about the whole window situation as I've heard other sparks mention it.
 
I phoned manrose about this, they confirmed to me that you only need a fuse in the permanent live and not switched live as its the permanent live that will have the draw on it from the fan and the switched live is literally a trigger, so they said fit a 3 pole isolator with a single fuse in the permanent live only.

what do you make of this? I tend to agree with it, plus if you are doing maintenance on the fan you should use the 3 pole isolator so it kills all power.
 
I had a customer once that was adamant that she didn't want the fan isolator......it was an inline fan situated in the loft so I ended up putting it on a 4pin klik rose.

For inline fans I always fit one of them or a blue click flow connector next to the fan. I was taught that a means of isolation should always be located next the the equipment it isolates wherever possible.

Also for 3 pole isolator switches I fit them at socket height rather than above door height as I think it looks ridiculous and sticks out like a sore thumb.
 
I phoned manrose about this, they confirmed to me that you only need a fuse in the permanent live and not switched live as its the permanent live that will have the draw on it from the fan and the switched live is literally a trigger, so they said fit a 3 pole isolator with a single fuse in the permanent live only.

what do you make of this? I tend to agree with it, plus if you are doing maintenance on the fan you should use the 3 pole isolator so it kills all power.

It sounds fishy to me, but without actually having a look at the pcb and working out the circuit it's hard to say. Somehow I doing that there is good isolation between them on that little pcb and I can see a bit of condensation causing a fault on the sw/l
 
Sometimes when we have dimmed bathroom lights we use Click minigrid with the dimmer module on one side and a retractive switch the other side to trigger the fan, you could always incorporate the minigrid 13A fuseholder into this grid to fuse the permanent live feed for the fan (and the switched if you were inclined to). Personally I don't think there is an easier or more smart looking system for domestic sparks than the Minigrid, I use it all the time. Your 3pole isolator should be located outside zones, usually we pout them high level above door etc or pullcord 3pole iso in airing cupboard.......
 
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I had a customer once that was adamant that she didn't want the fan isolator......it was an inline fan situated in the loft so I ended up putting it on a 4pin klik rose.

Well hang your head in shame fella...;)...such things are classed as LSC's and are not to be used for any other purpose,dont have the BYB to hand but 559.6.1.4 applies I believe.
 
Just searched this on this forum/google, gets posted every few months, with the same responses. There's the 'don't bother', or use a 'TP isolator with 3a fuse in the permanent live' or change the mcb to 3a. There was even one clever forum member who came up with a wiring design (can't find it here now), with fused fcu protecting both sw + perm' Live. I printed off a copy and kept in my van........never used it though. Some of our members say that 3a fuse protecting a motor that draws much lees than 1a is pretty pointless, in terms of overload. Wonder when it will next get posted!
 
This is a reply I gave on a previous thread :-
In reply to the op it is possible to achieve fan isolation of all lives, fusing of both lines and have the bathroom light unaffected by fan isolation using just a dp sfcu and a dp light switch. The wiring is a bit 'busy'.
Supply into dp switch, two x two core cables to sfcu and one x three core from sfcu to fan. Connect as follows :- Supply l to dp light sw S1, n to wago in light sw back box. Using one of the two cores cables, light sw S1 to sfcu l supply, sfcu l load back to light sw S2. Second two core, light sw L2 to wago in sfcu back box, n from light sw wago to sfcu supply n. 3 core is connected to sfcu l load, sfcu n load and switched line to sfcu wago. The light is connected to dp light sw L1 and n to light sw n wago.
Description looks confusing but draw it out.
 

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This is a reply I gave on a previous thread :-
In reply to the op it is possible to achieve fan isolation of all lives, fusing of both lines and have the bathroom light unaffected by fan isolation using just a dp sfcu and a dp light switch. The wiring is a bit 'busy'.
Supply into dp switch, two x two core cables to sfcu and one x three core from sfcu to fan. Connect as follows :- Supply l to dp light sw S1, n to wago in light sw back box. Using one of the two cores cables, light sw S1 to sfcu l supply, sfcu l load back to light sw S2. Second two core, light sw L2 to wago in sfcu back box, n from light sw wago to sfcu supply n. 3 core is connected to sfcu l load, sfcu n load and switched line to sfcu wago. The light is connected to dp light sw L1 and n to light sw n wago.
Description looks confusing but draw it out.
Like this?
Extract fan and light DP switch and SFCU.jpg
 
Yes that makes sense, the only thing is if you wanted to do it from a pull cord you would need to use a double pole one not just your ordinary type.

im just thinking about this layout as have a couple of extensions I'm working on so might just reconfigure it slightly to work this way.

i know it's obvious in a way but thanks for sharing it.
 
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we fit 3amp circuit breakers for bathrooms normally get 2 from one, this helps split lighting circuit up also, if we have multiple bathrooms en-suites utilities ect then we grid switch from 6-10amp circuit breakers.
 

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