Help to become best dad in the world.

[Simon Quartly]

I am in the process of building a Jeep themed bed for my 3 year old son and want to put working lights on it.
I want something to plug into mains rather than battery and to have the lights switched independently. And a must that the indicators must flash...
My brain is telling me this should be quite simple to achieve but I can't think how to start. It obviously has to be Uber safe..
Any help guidance would be appreciated..

 

[SparkyChick]

Hi Simon and welcome to the forums.

Can you provide a full list of the features you want?

Personally I'd be inclined to use a low voltage lighting transformer... DC not the standard AC because then you could use parts for cars, such as flasher relays and fuses (to help keep it safe).

 

[Deleted member 109422]

That sounds terrifying.
Use batteries.

Hopefully someone else will be along with more productive advice soon.

Sym

 

[Risteard]

Not being funny but why don't you hire someone to do it?

 

[ruston]

I would be worried about creating a fire hazard. Even at 12v there will be a bit of heat there from the flasher bulbs alone ; depending on the design.

 

[KEV 1 N]

I would definitely go for 12volts dc, and you should get all the parts you need from this website...

Vehicle Wiring Products Ltd Suppliers of Auto Electrical Parts - http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/

 

[static zap]

LED lamps use less energy , but sadly more expensive.
A trailer board (some rather cheaply made) , or motor cycle parts if want dainty !
.. Automotive parts normally designed for some abuse...

 

[Spoon]

Do you want to use car parts as I personally think that if these are fitted to a bed in a bedroom then they will be way too bright.
I'd go down the 'small led' route. All depends on what you want at the end of the day. As @SparkyChick says, we need more info.

 

[SparkyChick]

I'm thinking panel mounted LED indicators personally (which is why I suggested a low voltage lighting transformer of the DC variety).

 

[KEV 1 N]

Well this thread is ideally titled to mention what me and my 3 1/2 year old son got up the other day....
Several months ago I found an old plastic kids electric car abandoned (all the motors, wiring etc had been stripped from it) on some wasteland, it was there for about a week, so decided to claim it.
Had a day off on Tuesday so we made a “dashboard” for it with some bits and pieces I had lying around the garage......

Obviously the lights and switches are just “pretend”
He also has a proper working electric car, which he drives quite well! But the above one is ideal just to leave out in the garden to keep him amused!....The best things in life are free!

 

[Simon Quartly]

Hi Simon and welcome to the forums.

Can you provide a full list of the features you want?

Personally I'd be inclined to use a low voltage lighting transformer... DC not the standard AC because then you could use parts for cars, such as flasher relays and fuses (to help keep it safe).

I am looking to have headlights on/off switch
Red rear lights on/off switch
Indicators x4 on/off switch
orange strobe roof lights on/off switch
Was thinking LEDs

 

[Simon Quartly]

Not being funny but why don't you hire someone to do it?

Cost but also I like to try my hand at things.. rather than take risks with electrickery I thought I would ask for advice. It may be that I do have to get someone in....

 

[Spoon]

Do you want to use some of the car parts posted in post #6 or are you thinking of small LEDs like these or similar?

 

[Simon Quartly]

Do you want to use some of the car parts posted in post #6 or are you thinking of small LEDs like these or similar?

Small LEDs or similar...

 

[Simon Quartly]

LEDs

 

[Richard Burns]

There are many ways to approach this but as has been said above you want all the wiring in the bed to be 12V dc for safety.
As a start point this means having a power supply to provide the 12VDC. These are readily available and should be sized to about 20% above the expected load of the lights e.g. say a 40W power supply for 30W of lights. They will need free air around them.
Cable connections should be enclosed to prevent inadvertent contact or disconnection.
Plan for maintainability as far as possible. Pass cables through conduit or trunking or machined voids in wood so that they can be replaced if necessary.
It would probably be easiest to have a hollow section in the bed that
can hold the connections to switches and cable joints and then just run the wiring to the lights.
If you get a standard power supply it will have a barrel connector centre positive contact (2.1 or 2.5mm), so it might be easy to use CCTV power connectors which have screw terminals, or if you start with one of those and then change to lever action push wire connectors this is simple, but slightly larger in size. The 12V power supply connectors can also be bought as splitters to distribute to multiple lights.
Flashing or non flashing LEDs prewired for 12V are readily and cheaply available on ebay and can be mounted behind coloured discs of polycarbonate or acrylic or perhaps in coloured plastic balls set into the bed.
Toggle switches or push switches for panel mounting are readily available, screw terminals may be easier than solder or quick connect tags. Take note of how long the panel mount is depending on the mounting plate thickness.
Just some initial thoughts to get you going and a messy picture as well!

 

[Simon Quartly]

There are many ways to approach this but as has been said above you want all the wiring in the bed to be 12V dc for safety.
As a start point this means having a power supply to provide the 12VDC. These are readily available and should be sized to about 20% above the expected load of the lights e.g say a 40W power supply for 30W of lights. They will need free air around them.
Cable connections should be enclosed to prevent inadvertent contact or disconnection.
Plan for maintainability as far as possible. Pass cables through conduit or trunking or machined voids in wood so that hey can be replaced if necessary.
It would probably be easiest to have a hollow section in the bed that
can hold the connections to switches and cable joints and then just run the wiring to the lights.
If you get a standard power supply it will have a barrel connector centre positive contact (2.1 or 2.5mm), so it might be easy to use CCTV power connectors which have screw terminals, or if you start with one of those and then change to lever action push wire connectors this is simple, but slightly larger in size. The 12V power supply connectors can also be bought as splitters to distribute to multiple lights.
Flashing or non flashing LEDs prewired for 12V are readily and cheaply available on ebay and can be mounted behind coloured discs of polycarbonate or acrylic or perhaps in coloured plastic balls set into the bed.
Toggle switches or push switches for panel mounting are readily available, screw terminals may be easier than solder or quick connect tags. Take note of how long the panel mount is depending on the mounting plate thickness.
Just some initial thoughts to get you going and a messy picture as well!
View attachment 42694

Thank-you.. food for thought will have a look.