MOELLER DILEM10 240V 5kva

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craig sagar

Hi hope someone can help...

my MOELLER on my hydroraphic dipping tank went faulty so i took it out and bought a new one,i took photos of the wiring diagram.
However my daughter who's camera i took the photos on erased the sd card to take holiday photos with now im a little stuck as to what goes where...
The MOELLER has a thermostat wh7016c thermometer running to it and that then turns on my heater to warm the water up in my tank..
Could someone do a quick diagram as to what goes where please..

View attachment 35602

View attachment 35603

View attachment 35604
 
The circuit from the stat will switch the coil which is connections A1 and A2. So you should need a neutral to A2 and the switched side from the stat to A1, assuming it to be 230v. The heater should go through terminals 1 to 6, so terminals 1, 3 and 5 will switch to terminals 2, 4 and 6. It is not clear if the NO terminals are utilised.
 
thanks for the help i kinda get it so correct me in im wrong please

so the the load out of the thermometer goes to a1 and a neutral to a2 which can be taken from any neutral in the control panel
now the heater wires ive got 2 heater elements the brown wires go to the MOELLER and the neutrals of the 2 heaters go to the neutral again from anywhere in the control panel

so the thermometer is what gives the MOELLER its supply or do i need to also put a supply power to the MOELLER
 
Last edited by a moderator:
That doesn't tally with your contactor, the drawing shows two NO (normally open) and two NC (normally closed) contacts. Yours has three NO contacts.
 
Who sent you that, it shows the contactor used to switch between two loads when the stat calls, unless we know the full details of the control and what it is supposed to do then we can only guess.
 
ive took it off the tank ill add photos
but basically i have an on/off switch for the actual power box of that a live and neautral go to 2 switches that turn my pump on to circulate the water and to open the magnetic switch.
then i have the thermometer that went to the moeller and then from that 2 heater cables. ill try and get a decent photo to post up,
I might even get someone to draw what goes where haha,but so far thanks load for the help
 
ok ive took all the wires off but know where they went as there only to switch to open a magnetic switch and then another to turn on my water pump which circulates cotaminated top coat water that ive sprayed xylene based activator onto.

View attachment 35606
 
in the photo the moeller is upside down which ive only just noticed.
the three switches only 2 are in use i know the connections to those its the thermo to the moeller,had my daughter not deleted the memory card it would be easy to do haha..
i didnt think it would be so difficult to connect a thermometer to the moeller to get it to turn the moeller on and off..
there was i remeber a wire coming going into a2 then a bridge wire coming out and going to the connnection next to it looks which looks like 14 in the picture
 
Where the 2 red wires are on the moeller is that where the thermometer load connects to ? or is that where the power of the control panel on switch goes.
Then the blue wire out of the thermometer where does that go as im sure that was in the moeller connected to pin L2
Then do the heater elements wire to the moeller or do they go to a switch.
the way the board was wired up originally it was that only the bridged wire was connected then the thermo wire was in the opposite,so a1 a2 then there was a wire next to a1 and then another wire at L2
Oh i forgot to mention that i have added another heater,when i first got the tank it only had a small heater in it, that took hours to heat the tank to temperature.
Id be made up if someone could draw a diagram to make the moeller function correctly.The pump and electronic switch is simple to connect up.
Thanks to anyone that can do this for me as not having my tank working properley is a nightmare, ive got the heaters plugged in to a double socket at the moment,which im sure isnt good when the cable is getting hot eeeeeeeek...
Its nice to feel sake especially around water mixed with electricity :)
thanks again for any help

any wire you see on the control panel is disconnected i should have took a photo showing this....
 
westward10 said:
The circuit from the stat will switch the coil which is connections A1 and A2. So you should need a neutral to A2 and the switched side from the stat to A1, assuming it to be 230v. The heater should go through terminals 1 to 6, so terminals 1, 3 and 5 will switch to terminals 2, 4 and 6. It is not clear if the NO terminals are utilised.
Click to expand...


think you have answered what i need to know here,i was stuck on where the neutral goes to the moeller but you have said here the neutral goes to a2,god only knows why the previous installer has a bridged red wire as this is to me is a live so if i put a neutral to a2 and the switch or load side from the stat a1 .
i presume then that the power cable going to the heaters ,the red wires go to terminals 2 and 4 and the neutrals all go together on a bus connector or do terminals 1 and 3 also need a power or does the power come from the thermometer
 
craig sagar said:
A BETTER VIEW

View attachment 35615
Click to expand...
#
why is the no connection bridged is it so the heaters get no power when the thermostat is at temperature if so do i connect the no to a neutral as said before.

ive thrown what i think is correct together in a crude in my house way to show you where i think live and neutrals should go to,
dont take any notice of the wiring its all throw together and i wiill be using thicker wires when it comes to the real thing. so this is how i think it shall be then i have my live in to connect and the heater element cables to connect also.
hopefully this is right haha
 
It is impossible to gauge from your pictures the correct way to connect the contactor, or Moeller as you call it. It is clear from #21 you don't know how the device functions and something is going to go pear shaped if you continue. If I had it in front of me I could suss it out but from afar it is not going to happen.
 
no nothing worked apart from the switches to turn the pump and the magnetic switch on i think the moellwe needs another live going in somewhere of a switch as on the front of the control panel it says heat with a live coming off it so im going to connect this next to a1 which is what im sure it went before i disconnected it,it will either work or blow a fuse hahha
 
westward10 said:
It is impossible to gauge from your pictures the correct way to connect the contactor, or Moeller as you call it. It is clear from #21 you don't know how the device functions and something is going to go pear shaped if you continue. If I had it in front of me I could suss it out but from afar it is not going to happen.
Click to expand...


The thing i remeber is that it had a wire next to a1 and a2 but cant remeber if they were live ??? ive put the control box front panel on and connected a couple of cables in to the coil or moeller and nothing happened,
Im sure another live has to go into the no position on top theres a neutral link from a1 to no so im sure the top one was a live in the no position
 

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