Hi - I think you've got a control system problem and an ASHP problem.
My best guess is the orange wire from the zone valve is not being made L so the ASHP doesn't know to make heat. If you go near those zone valves be aware there are 240V connections - Danger Morgan, Danger. Several faults can have the same effect (cabling, microswitch, motor for example). An experienced Electrician should confirm if the fault is there fairly quickly, just saying. After the control system is working properly that will still leave the defrost problem, sorry.

Don't worry, I may not have much experience in electrics but I know how to isolate a system and not touch live wires haha.

Frankly I don't care about the defrost issue currently as it never ices up much. As long as I get heat on demand then I'm happy
 
Hi - no no no, maybe :).
Power may not be coming into valve on the the grey wire. Or the connection from the orange to the boiler may be no more etc ...
 
Hi - no no no, maybe :).
Power may not be coming into valve on the the grey wire. Or the connection from the orange to the boiler may be no more etc ...
So the orange is the wire which tells the ASHP the valve is open and to make heat and that's what you suspect is the issue?

Are you also saying if that wire is not live then it doesn't necessarily mean the valve is faulty?
 
Luckily I have a friend who is a plumber and he may have a spare valve motor we can try just to see if that is the problem
 
Also one of the valves has the switch stuck on manual (it has been jammed for some reason) would that cause this issue. I forgot to mentiin this earlier! Sorry.
 
Check which valve is stuck :)
As in hot water or heating? If it's the heating valve then id imagine that's the problem and it will just be a case of moving it to auto (if I can free it) or getting a new valve motor
 
Before I check the orange wire with a multi meter, I'm looking for 250v on this wire when the heating is on and 0v when heating off right?
 
Ok so how would I test it to see if it is faulty? Measure resistance?

A voltage tester which doesn't give false readings due to phantom voltages would be my choice of tester for this. You could try the multimeter, but there's no guarantee that the results you get will. Be correct unfortunately.
 
Right, before you start pulling things to bits you need to check whether there is power at terminal 9 of the heat pump wiring centre, see page 9 of the manual.

If you have 230 at terminal 9 then the HP is asking the MV to open, if there is no power then the HP is not asking for heating regardless of what the controller says.

I still think this is a parameter error or sensor fault.

If you have power at terminal 9 and no power at the MV then a broken wire you have, or a hidden JB.

The ones I've seen tend to power the MVs from the HP, the orange/grey being used to power pumps via contactors.

Is there and internal wiring centre? If so a loose connection in there may be the cause.
 

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Air source heat pump heating issue
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Central Heating Systems
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Themorganator4,
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Themorganator4,
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