Discuss Correct Procedure For Fault Finding On An Immersion Element in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

I

irishsailor

Lads

Can anyone please tell me the correct procedure for fault find on an Immersion Heater Element?? Does anyone have a PDF or give me a laid down procedure

Regards Chris
 
Disconnect the cables. Meggar between one of the posts and earth and do a continuity test between the posts look for a reading of about 18 ohms. Usual fault is no continuity l-n as the element goes open cct. Also check that the stat is making/ breaking y twiddling the control, on a newer stat chec that the overheat stat hasn't tripped.
 
Last edited:
Its pretty straight forward really

Check That supply is going to immersion heater then safely isolate.
Check for continuity between live and neutral with a low reading ohms meter. Should read about 13 ohms. If it shows anything over 18 ohms then you know element has had it. Correct e if im wrong.

Also you need to do insulation resistence test between live and earth and neutral and earth to check you dont have a fault to earth.
 
isolate the circuit switch it of this should be a DP switch open the terminals at the tank put tester to ohms and as above 18-20 ohms you should get remember to measure across the heater terminals and not the heater and the thermostat.

Faults to look out for
1. faulty control stat.
2. burnt out connections at the heater due to a slack connection
3. As above at the DP switch / timeclock
4. As above at the DB
5. Faulty element heater ie open circuit or fault to earth.
6. Off peak control stat set too high that it trips out the boost control stat.(if it has a high temp trip)
7. Off peak control stat contacts welded together causing water to boil and tripping the boost control stat (if it has a high temp trip)
8. Faulty eco 7 cotroller and or no link in to allow boost function to work.
9 Ran out of ideas
 

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