I

Inteificio

Hi,

Am moving a few sockets/switches on a job.
Much smaller than normal works I do so seems a waste to get a plaster out for a few mins work.

So what do you use to tidy up the plaster around sockets/switches.

I was thinking this, anyone used?

No Nonsense All Purpose Ready Mixed Filler 1kg | Screwfix.com

There is a chance I may have to chase one wall.

Will this stuff work for that too?
I appreciate this might cost a lot more than normal plaster, but only use a few tubs and will save getting a real plasterer in!

As mentioned before I'm an industrial guy, stuff like this is new to me! (however if work is available, who am I to turn it down!)
 
Dont see why not mate, if there's a large deep chase it may not work for it very easily may need to fill it pretty much all the way then wait for it to set to get a good finish otherwise u will notice when you put the filler in if you keep trying to put more in a hole that already has wet filler in it just dosent work too well! Just seems to splosh about and make a mess ha!
 
Most of the ready mixed stuff shrinks if it is put on too thick. You need to put a final thin skim on when it has dried. I tend to use the one coat plaster. I do have a tub of polyfiller in the van for the really little bits.
 
For small repair work I use Polycell plaster repair ready mix, about £12 for 2.5L. It can be used to fill in quite deep holes. Your supposed to use finishing plaster after but I find that you can get a good result from wetting your trowl to finish it off.
 
use the 1 coat as previously mentioned. wickes or b&q. but keep it away from damp when stored or you'll find it goes off quicker than you can trowel it on.
 
I use easi fill. Its very easy to use just build it up in stages and throw a final finish layer on it. Sands back very easily and doesn't shrink as much as others. They do one that sets hard in about 45 minutes
 
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one coat! spray the chase with water first to reduce shrinkage, one coat sets in a couple of hours
 
I used to patch small work in the same manner as a large wall,Bonding coat then finish plaster
A plumber ( yes I know we shouldn't praise them) gave me some of this filler on a recent job
Everbuild EVBONE05 - One Strike Filler 500ml

I used it,loved it and instantly bought myself a pot,only one word to describe it,"brilliant2.put it on as thick or thin as you will.finish it off the same as skimming plaster
 
Same here, one coat plaster for the bulk and if a very fine finish is required a final coat of coving adhesive; which I find is better than any fine filler. Bizarrely, I don't use the coving adhesive for coving these days as I find it's easier to 'gun it up' with a construction adhesive.
 
Hi,

Am moving a few sockets/switches on a job.
Much smaller than normal works I do so seems a waste to get a plaster out for a few mins work.

So what do you use to tidy up the plaster around sockets/switches.

I was thinking this, anyone used?

No Nonsense All Purpose Ready Mixed Filler 1kg | Screwfix.com

There is a chance I may have to chase one wall.

Will this stuff work for that too?
I appreciate this might cost a lot more than normal plaster, but only use a few tubs and will save getting a real plasterer in!

As mentioned before I'm an industrial guy, stuff like this is new to me! (however if work is available, who am I to turn it down!)

By the way, the No None sense stuff is bobbins. Takes ages to dry and never wants to stay put.

Buy a decent brand and you'll be fine.
 
Just a suggestion -
If you want a quick fill that has almost zero shrinkage and will fill any depth plus cure in 10 mins or so use 70% plasterboard adhesive with 30% cement. Mix to a thick consistency for deep fill and more liquid for minor surface damage. Can trowel as smoth as the smothest plaster. You jaust have to be quick if you are doing more than a small chase. It will also bond metal boxes into walls. Don't forget to wet the area to be filled first - helps with set time and adhesion.
Keep both in airtight containers and they will last in the back of the van for months.
Best thing about it - £15 will last you months of minor repairs.
Once you get used to it, you'll never go back.
 
you can use cheese but not processed cheese because that shrinks too much, use a decent chedder

cheese slices are cheaper- very thin & quite sticky, simply place them over the chase like tiles
then do a runner(after payment)
 
Don't mind me while I bump some old threads. Just doing the rounds. Ignore the thread if it's not current topic, it'll soon drop off the list, but if the thread interests you, feel free to reply. :)
 
Just a suggestion -
If you want a quick fill that has almost zero shrinkage and will fill any depth plus cure in 10 mins or so use 70% plasterboard adhesive with 30% cement. Mix to a thick consistency for deep fill and more liquid for minor surface damage. Can trowel as smoth as the smothest plaster. You jaust have to be quick if you are doing more than a small chase. It will also bond metal boxes into walls. Don't forget to wet the area to be filled first - helps with set time and adhesion.
Keep both in airtight containers and they will last in the back of the van for months.
Best thing about it - £15 will last you months of minor repairs.
Once you get used to it, you'll never go back.
Very good advice. Plaster board adhesive is great for setting boxes into walls where the background is weak or the existing plaster dodgy. Never tried mixing it with cement to be honest but might give it a go!
 
Very good advice. Plaster board adhesive is great for setting boxes into walls where the background is weak or the existing plaster dodgy. Never tried mixing it with cement to be honest but might give it a go!
Don't mix Gypsum products with cement. They cause a chemical reaction and deboned.
 
Don't mix Gypsum products with cement. They cause a chemical reaction and deboned.
This is not my field Dan but its common practice to add gypsum plaster to internal cement rendering or plastering its even used with lime and its known as gauging.
I have done this myself on the advice of a plasterer.
 
This is not my field Dan but its common practice to add gypsum plaster to internal cement rendering or plastering its even used with lime and its known as gauging.
I have done this myself on the advice of a plasterer.
Meh, a plasterer lol

"a chemical reaction occurring between the cement based adhesive and a plaster substrate, a known problem know as "Ettringite Failure".
Preperation - Pva Versus Primers | Always Use A Primer When Tiling, And Not Pva - http://www.tilersforums.co.uk/threads/pva-versus-primers-always-use-a-primer-when-tiling-and-not-pva.2511/

We have chemists on TilersForums who make barriers to prevent this because it used to be such a common problem. Plasterers being the worst culprits lol
 
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The interior of my house was stuffed up with care by previous use of PVA. Tiles all fell off the walls (exactly as described in the tiler's post) and one can peel the paint off the walls in sheets. The walls were plastered brilliantly and then given a heavy coat of PVA. The paint / tile glue never penetrated in any way and the wall reminds me of teflon coated fry pan for smoothness and non stick. Soooo much grief ...
 
Just had a read Dan have to say I nearly fell asleep. Just wondering why all the plaster thats on top of cement rendered walls has not fell off and plaster on brick and mortar, concrete blocks etc. Like I said I am no Expert in this field but live in a home now worried about all my plaster falling off :tongueout:
 
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Did try the pva before painting once. Walls are only good for wall papering after that unless you sand them. Carnt beat milky matt paint on bare plaster IMO
 
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Just had a read Dan have to say I nearly fell asleep. Just wondering why all the plaster thats on top of cement rendered walls has not fell off and plaster on brick and mortar, concrete blocks etc. Like I said I am no Expert in this field but live in a home now worried about all my plaster falling off :tongueout:
Because if it has been done right an acrylic primer would have been used to stop them mixing.
 
The two that don't mix is calcium sulphate and cement.

Cement based adhesive on calcium sulphate (gypsum) screed - http://www.tilersforums.co.uk/threads/cement-based-adhesive-on-calcium-sulphate-gypsum-screed.7346/

Happens on screeds, concrete, plaster and render and the fix is simple, buy a 12 quid bottle of liquid (primer) instead of 3 quid (pva).

But obviously that's more expensive than doing the whole job again inc thousands of pounds worth of tiles and whatnot.

Plasterers always being to blame usually. Sometimes a DIY tiler mind.

Either way, don't rely on anything you mix together that contains those two.
 
Gyproc Easi fill is what you need, plastered half my bedroom wall with it, sets quick, sands well easy to mix, use as little or much as you want.
 
Blimey all we wanted to do was set a back box into a dodgy wall. I sand/cement rendered my sitting room walls and then finished with a topcoat of thistle board finish, lovely job even if I say so myself. 18 years later it is still looking great. Mind you not been in there for a week or so, probably won't be able to get the door open now for a pile of render behind it..........
 
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How about barbecued meat and shoe polish, might look a bit iffy but it smells good, knarf knarf
 
The formation of expansive ettrignite particles in high sulphate containing cementitious products is generally associated with heat treated concrete and does not usually cause problems in non heat treated materials.
 

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Job to small to get a plaster out, what to use!
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Inteificio,
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