My worry is, that we bought an expensive fridge cooker and washing machine and this may invalidate the warranty???

It won't and it's good practice.

Edit: I should add that, if I've read your post correctly, your electrician is ensuring that a fault with one appliance won't affect power supply to any other.
 
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I read in some forums that people read in the manual that it invalidates warranty

Think of it another way and forget about what manuals might state...

If you damaged an appliance flex and had it replaced, would you expect this to void the warranty? Consumer law would not be on the manufacturer's side, should they reject a claim under such circumstances.
 
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It won't invalidate warranty if done correctly......but why hard wire appliances if they come with a 13a plug connected? If you have problems with them it just creates more.
Is he talking about FCU's at worktop height with sockets below?
 
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It won't invalidate warranty if done correctly......but why hard wire appliances if they come with a 13a plug connected? If you have problems with them it just creates more.
Is he talking about FCU's at worktop height with sockets below?
Hi

Does it really cause more problems? I'm reading Conflicting reports.

Yes FCU at worktop with hardwire behind cooker
 
Hi

Does it really cause more problems? I'm reading Conflicting reports.

Yes FCU at worktop with hardwire behind cooker
Hard wire down to a socket at low level.....for plugging in the appliance, as a rule.
 
Sorry what do you mean exactly
A FCU/ isolation point at work top height, to isolate a socket outlet at lower level, behind the kitchen units, supplying an appliance. A method used regularly in kitchens.
 
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Socket in adjacent cupboard.

Sometimes there’s not enough space directly behind an appliance for a plug.

You need to be able to isolate an appliance quickly… so switch above worktop, or accessible socket.

I also think myself you need to be able to quickly remove an appliance from the property if it starts smoking.
 
Socket in adjacent cupboard.

Sometimes there’s not enough space directly behind an appliance for a plug.

You need to be able to isolate an appliance quickly… so switch above worktop, or accessible socket.

I also think myself you need to be able to quickly remove an appliance from the property if it starts smoking.
The isolation switch is above worktop level and the hardwire is behind the cooker
 
The isolation switch is above worktop level and the hardwire is behind the cooker
When you mention "cooker", do you mean with a hob on top, grill and oven(s)? Or is it just an oven unit?
If the former it needs a circuit rated for a cooker, and a proper cooker switch, not a 13A fcu. And not a 13A plug 🤪
 
The isolation switch is above worktop level and the hardwire is behind the cooker
I know different people can go off at tangents to the point in question but I'm wondering if you are any wiser to the situation?
 
When you mention "cooker", do you mean with a hob on top, grill and oven(s)? Or is it just an oven unit?
If the former it needs a circuit rated for a cooker, and a proper cooker switch, not a 13A fcu. And not a 13A plug 🤪
Its a gas double oven with electric grill option and 4 gas hobs
 
I know different people can go off at tangents to the point in question but I'm wondering if you are any wiser to the situation?
Not really no. Sorry to say this about women on their behalf and mine but im a woman and pretty much clueless
 
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Its a gas double oven with electric grill option and 4 gas hobs
OK, fine. That's a combination I didn't consider! No problem with the proposed arrangements.

There's been much said on the interweb about cutting off of an appliance plug invalidating warranty.
It's generally considered here to be a myth.
 
Not really no. Sorry to say this about women on their behalf and mine but im a woman and pretty much clueless
So it seems...........sorry, only joking, Ell 😉.......and to all our competent women members.

I think it might be best if you had a word with your electrician for a decent explanation that you can understand, to put your mind at rest. Ask why there is any need for fixed wired appliances (rather than plug-in). I've a feeling there might not be....and there may be no intention of using them. If there is, you'll know why.
 
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New kitchen does it need own fusebox or change just the mains fusebox?
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