AMPAGE TESTING (12 Volt DC)

[telectrix]

now i know what current my windows require, i shall sleep better at nights. however in the morning, i'll still have to use the window winder handle as they're not electric. now i'm just off to the "manual van window forum"

 

[Knobhead]

:confused5::freak::ciappa:

Is this geezer on drugs?

He can have some of mine, I’ve got plenty.

Codeine Phosphate puts me out like a light!
I take zero ampage then.

 

[drew35]

What was the point in that post? Most multi meters only test to 10amps so for anything more they're useless. All you need is an amp clamp multi meter, good for 600amps, or an inductive ammeter they cost pence. But in this technological world you can buy a digital ammeter with fuse adapter on the end for five quid. A lot easy than than mess in the pictures! Stick to stealing car stereos!

 

[srands]

What was the point in that post? Most multi meters only test to 10amps so for anything more they're useless. All you need is an amp clamp multi meter, good for 600amps, or an inductive ammeter they cost pence. But in this technological world you can buy a digital ammeter with fuse adapter on the end for five quid. A lot easy than than mess in the pictures! Stick to stealing car stereos!

Mate, In the 12V dc car/house world nearly every part/motor with the exception of a car starter motor, is less then 10A, the only other common exceptions being high output car sound amplifiers, perhaps some air conditioning units, so a 10A MultiMeter £10 or 20A MultiMeter £30 is more then adequate.

Clamp MultiMeters and PAT testers are useless junk, they are a joke, they're expensive mickey mouse nonsense(Metal conducts, but NOT wirelessly!)

And the other meters, are a waste of time & money (Make a circuit, wait an hour, or average out 10 mins over an hour). I guess your making reference to finding out the ampage of a starter motor, goto Halfords (Or your main dealer) and ask them the part (starter motor) specification, it sayes on the side of the box.

 

[alarm man]

Mate, In the 12V dc car/house world nearly every part/motor with the exception of a car starter motor, is less then 10A, the only other common exceptions being high output car sound amplifiers, perhaps some air conditioning units, so a 10A MultiMeter £10 or 20A MultiMeter £30 is more then adequate.

Clamp MultiMeters and PAT testers are useless junk, they are a joke, they're expensive mickey mouse nonsense(Metal conducts, but NOT wirelessly!)

And the other meters, are a waste of time & money (Make a circuit, wait an hour, or average out 10 mins over an hour). I guess your making reference to finding out the ampage of a starter motor, goto Halfords (Or your main dealer) and ask them the part (starter motor) specification, it sayes on the side of the box.

interesting thread srands,it inspired me to have a bit of a tinker with my own car,tho i think ive bit off more than i can chew...look forward to your help..:uhoh2:

 

[Silly Sausage]

:uhoh2:


View attachment 7834

Hahaha!!! Can't stop laughing now...

 

[Des 56]

Remember a fuse is only a fuse (Cheap & easy to replace), how if you don’t fuse a lead, and resistance and/or maximum is exceeded, then wiring looms and/or motors/parts and expensive & hard to replace


Why would you want to fuse the negative as well as the positive
A circuit will be disrupted with a fuse in the positive only,adding another fuse in the negative has no benefit,its a waste of time and effort


Some starter motors can draw current upwards to 200 amp and will operate directly from the battery via the solenoid,
If you double fuse everything ,does that "everything" include your starter motor

Using thick cables to overengineer for heavy future loads
Relays and solenoids negate the need to switch the bulk of these loads,localised larger cable is the time tested best method

 

[Knobhead]

srands, would you please go to DIYnot, or did they send you here? I’m sure there’s people there that will listen to you

View attachment 7835

 

[srands]

To comment further on calculating AMPAGE drawn, there was discussion that electric motors are all mostly low ampage (Below 10Ah), with the exception about knowing the ampage of a car's greatest electrical consumption part, a STARTER MOTOR, well goto Starter Motor | Quality Starter Motors for any car (Or your main dealer) and ask them for the parts (starter motor) specification, it sayes on the side of the box, or motor.
Note: If starter motor specification is in KW:
KW / 1000 = Watt's
Watt's / 12 V = A. This figure is an instant, as the starter motor drain is for a second (NOT continuously), then the ignition key is released (Starter motor turned OFF) as the engine is started, then the alternator produces current, recharging the battery, obviously there will be small current drains in Ah from small motors/parts, for example, electric windows, indicators, car cd/mp4/dvd player, lights, fan/air con, etc.

FURTHER DETAIL:

BATTERY & STARTER MOTOR EXAMPLE:
CAR BATTERY: 56 Ah (* 10 = 560 A [EN])
STARTER MOTOR 1.7 KW (/1000 = 1700 WATTs / 12 VOLTs = 142 A [EN])

Obviously the car manufacturer deems what is an appropriate battery Ah for their manufactured car model.

An Amp-Hour (ampere-hour, Ah) is a way of describing a battery's capacity - how long it will run before it is drained down. To be more specific: the amp-hour rating for a given battery is the maximum amperage that can be drawn continuously until the battery is completely flat, over a specific time period.

AH stands for amp hours
10 amp hours =
~ DrAW 10 amps for 1 hour
or
~ Draw 1 amp for 10 hours
Or
~ Draw 11 amps for 54 minutes (0.9 hours)
The faster you draw amps out of your battery the fewer amp hours you get in total, and the shorter the life of the battery.

Ampere-hour - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Starter Motor | Quality Starter Motors for any car

 

[Silly Sausage]

Thanks for link to Ampere-hours, you learn something everyday!
Could you please explain to me kWh, I'm just completely baffled by them?
Thanks in advance
A