Electrical Cable for USA Xmas Lights in UK

[mail-stephens]

Hi Guys

I've recently inherited some Christmas lights from a friend in the USA and want to use them in the UK. I've already calculated the total VA/Watts of the lights and purchased the appropriate step-down transformer, however, to get the lights to reach outside I need to custom make an extension lead and although there are some fantastic instructions on the Internet for doing this, I'm have difficulty locating the same electrical cable and I can't fathom what the alternative would be in the UK.

The recommended cable is SPT-1 18AWG 2-Core with a maximum rating of 300V and 7-10 Amps - it is commonly known as 'lamp wire' for table lamps and looks very much like speaker cable (in that it's two cables that you can peel apart).

I haven't been able to source anything called 'SPT-1' but the closest match in terms of specifications is the cable we would use for table lamps, although I'm not entirely confident, and also it doesn't look like speaker cable but I imagine it would work fine if I simply removed the outer sheath (not the one covering each of the inner cores).

Here are some links to what they are recommending and the alternative I've found...

Recommended:

http://christmas-lights-aacc.blogspot.co.uk/2008/08/diy-christmas-lights-extension-cords.html
http://www.landolights.com/main/content/view/77/39/#makeone
http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=SPT_Wire_and_Vampire_Plugs#SPT_Wire_.28_SPT-1_SPT-2_.29]SPT Wire and Vampire Plugs - doityourselfchristmas.com

Alternative:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CA1F2slash50.html

I would be entirely grateful for any advice!

Thanks

 

[dingledong]

So the new cable would be joined to the new cable ? The original cable is outside ? Where would the join be ? Inside or out ?

 

[mail-stephens]

So the new cable would be joined to the new cable ? The original cable is outside ? Where would the join be ? Inside or out ?

The custom made extension would have a male connector on one end and a female connector on the other, the original cable will be outside but the plug end will be on the inside (fed through the window), so connection would be made inside.

The original cable does have a female connector at the end to allow additional strings to be attached, but I would place these inside a water proof box if I chose to extend as I see that as a MAJOR safety issue (got to love the Americans attitude to health and safety lol).

 

[dingledong]

Artic cable used outside a lot

 

[mail-stephens]

Artic cable used outside a lot

Thanks. I've just had a snoop around on Google and from what I've seen the 2-core version has been discontinued - so, would it be OK to use 3-core and leave the Earth cable (there's nothing for it to connect to anyway) and would there be any adverse affects if I used a 1.5mm2 (14/15AWG) instead of a 1mm2 (17/18AWG) cable?

 

[Lucien Nunes]

US cable designs are different to those in the UK, for historic reasons and because of the different supply voltages in general use. E.g. the 'figure-8' style unsheathed cable is still used a lot over there but we no longer use it in Europe. There is no need to use US style cable, if it is going to be indoors then ordinary UK-style sheathed 2-core PVC flex is ideal. Current ratings as per 230V usage i.e. 0.75 up 6A, 1.0 up to 10A. Outdoors it would be preferred to use arctic cable or H07 heavy-duty rubber.

When terminating, remember that the sheath of the UK style cable must end inside the connector without the individual cores being exposed, as they are not as tough as the US single-insulated ones.

 

[mail-stephens]

US cable designs are different to those in the UK, for historic reasons and because of the different supply voltages in general use. E.g. the 'figure-8' style unsheathed cable is still used a lot over there but we no longer use it in Europe. There is no need to use US style cable, if it is going to be indoors then ordinary UK-style sheathed 2-core PVC flex is ideal. Current ratings as per 230V usage i.e. 0.75 up 6A, 1.0 up to 10A. Outdoors it would be preferred to use arctic cable or H07 heavy-duty rubber.

When terminating, remember that the sheath of the UK style cable must end inside the connector without the individual cores being exposed, as they are not as tough as the US single-insulated ones.

Thanks, I'm starting to feel a little more confident in my understandings.

Yes, 'figure-8' is the style of cable they recommend, it looks like non-transparent speaker cable but is rated at 300V where as speaker cable is rated at 100V - I believe SPT-1 and SPT-2 refers to the thickness of insulation.

The 'quick-connect'/'vampire' plugs I'll be using are suitable for SPT-1 18AWG thickness of cable and my understanding is that the closest match in terms of thickness in the UK would be 0.75mm2 2-core PVC flex - after terminating, can I seal the area where the cable enters the plug against water damage with a hot-glue gun and electrical insulating tape to be extra safe?

 

[dingledong]

Yes if you want

 

[Darkwood]

Hi ... are these lights so amazing you had to buy all the accessories to be able to use them over here?

You can get excellent quality and design lighting over here that is probably cheaper than trying to convert a USA product in the first place, Im just curious tbh on why your not just binning them and using the same cash that you spent on the TX and extending it on a new kit already suited to UK voltages.

 

[mail-stephens]

Hi ... are these lights so amazing you had to buy all the accessories to be able to use them over here?

You can get excellent quality and design lighting over here that is probably cheaper than trying to convert a USA product in the first place, Im just curious tbh on why your not just binning them and using the same cash that you spent on the TX and extending it on a new kit already suited to UK voltages.

Yup, the off-the-shelf lights in the UK are just plain c**p to be honest. The colour options are dire (you can't get C7/E12 lights here hardly at all, let alone in multiple colours) everything is now LED which makes special effects such as 'random twinkle' only available on commercial/professional lights costing several times the cost of this project, and as I said earlier, these were inherited so carry a high sentimental value.

 

[Darkwood]

Yup, the off-the-shelf lights in the UK are just plain c**p to be honest. The colour options are dire (you can't get C7/E12 lights here hardly at all, let alone in multiple colours) everything is now LED which makes special effects such as 'random twinkle' only available on commercial/professional lights costing several times the cost of this project, and as I said earlier, these were inherited so carry a high sentimental value.

Can't argue at your reply, any flex you pick just ensure its durable for outdoor use especially UV tolerance and is rated for both voltage and current, Lucien has made a few suggestions... any jointing just ensure its IP rated for outdoor use and any glands you use are suitably IP rated and water cannot get into the joint.