J

jase31

In a "average" kitchen (say Washer, Dishwasher, Fridge/Freezer, say 4 doubles (which may be used for normal appliances, kettle/toaster/micro). What circuits do you normally put in?

I guess most people put the Freezer in is own 16a radial, and the rest on a FRC, although if all the appliances decide to use their elements, with the kettle and microwave it would not be good!

If fitting a 13a socket for oven would you give this its own circuit - or put on the ring main (or radial), is there anything else you would separate from the socket circuit.

I am usually tempted by a couple of radials rather than a single RFC
 
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Kitchen likely to have one RFC or two radials, if boiler in kitchen on separate circuit, electric cooker / hob on separate circuit!, ideally gas oven / hob on separate circuit but not critical.
Ideally should have at least 6 double S/O in a kitchen; diversity, short term operation and thermostatic controls would reduce the overall load to OK levels.
I would tend to put the freezer on the ring unless it is huge or you anticipate other problems or you want to run it surface to exclude RCD protection.
 
Hi Jase, OSG 8.7 provides guidance on the number of socket-outlets. Table 8B gives the minimum number of twin socket-outlets to be provided for various rooms and floor areas.
For small kitchens (>12m[SUP]2[/SUP]) 6 are recommended.
For medium kitchens (12-25m[SUP]2[/SUP]) 8 are recommended.
For large kitchens (>25m[SUP]2[/SUP]) 10 are recommended.
 
If I put 10 sockets in the kitchen the mrs would only want to go out n buy more gy,iky single unse (Use once never again ) appliances Like her tefalmultifry thinggy 1 tea spoon of oil Brill no greasy food drawback 35mins wait for my chips and cost £100 solution £20 deep fat fryer fea Asda drain chips n put on kitchen rolll before serving
 
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Years back doing the third rewire of my own kitchen I gave the wife the plans before I started. By the time she’d finished I could have ordered one less box of tiles! I did some pretty drawings on the PC for her and she had to admit she’d gone over the top, especially when I asked what she was going to use them for. Out of the 10 doubles fitted I think only three outlets were ever used.
 
All subject to loading required
 
I fit a separate circuit for the oven, even if it's for the type that come with a 13A plug. Ratings do vary between 2.0 and 3.5kW... the one I have in the caravan (rapid 200C in 7 mins) takes just under 15A - a fair bit more than the one in the dual fuel range cooker at home (pathetic 200C in 15 mins)! The caravan one is on a 16A radial, whereas the one at home is on a plug/socket on the kitchen ring (not my install).

There's a reg that says fixed heating appliances over 2kW should be on their own circuit, not the ring. I class an oven as one of those.


I also advise of the benefits of a dedicated fridge/freezer circuit - RCBO'd if the board type allows. If it's just a dual RCD board I don't bother. Only going surface and omitting the RCD if they request it.

Simon.
 
There's a reg that says fixed heating appliances over 2kW should be on their own circuit, not the ring. I class an oven as one of those.
.

This quote comes up quite regularly. I have never seen such a Regulation in either the red or green book. There is however something in the red book in App. 15 - Fig 15A, about loading of circuits, and how an even balance can be achieved by putting cookers ovens and hobs on their own radial circuits.
It is not a requirement, just a suggestion.

Alan.
 
so for post hoggin but mine arnt registering....

isnt it ok if i come off a socket to fised spur in 1.5 then to feed a securiy light.. in 1.5mm ????? no 2.5 unless i buy a roll and the security light is about1 meter from socket, thanks in advance for quick reply , have a nice day
 
I=P/U, i'd feed to the FCU in 2.5mm. you must have some odd bits kicking around. or you could buy by the yard from local DIY. then come off the FCU in black flex ( 0.75mm will do). as a. it looks better on the outside wall. b. less prone to damage from the sun ( when it returms next year). c. cable entry of security light is designed for round flex, not T/E. and don't forget the 3Afuse.
 
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i haave 1.5mm high tuff was going to use up
 
I also advise of the benefits of a dedicated fridge/freezer circuit - RCBO'd if the board type allows. If it's just a dual RCD board I don't bother. Only going surface and omitting the RCD if they request it.
What do people think? Is it better to have a dedicated MCB or RCBO (as required) for a freezer which is less likely to trip or is is better to keep it on a general power circuit so that it's more likely to be noticed if it does trip? I'm thinking of a situation where the freezer is out of sight in, say, an attached garage or utility room.
 
mcb is fine as long as you mark the sicket or use outlet plate so nothing else can get plugged in...
 
does metal capping class as mechanical protection if you earthed it? then you could have it on an mcb only if you label the outlet for its intended purpose and then saves running the cable surface like and then no rcd nuisance?
 
does metal capping class as mechanical protection if you earthed it? then you could have it on an mcb only if you label the outlet for its intended purpose and then saves running the cable surface like and then no rcd nuisance?

No metal capping earthed will not allow you to omit RCD additional protection unless that capping can afford protection to BS 61386 for conduit or BS 50085 for trunking or ducting
 
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Thing is, if the freezer is the only thing on the circuit... aside from installation damage, the only thing that's going to trip the RCBO is a fault on the freezer itself - so that's why I think it's pointless having to go surface or spend extra on installing conduit or special cables etc.

When on a general circuit, it's 99% going to be something else that trips the RCD protecting the circuit that the freezer is on. That's what I feel I'm protecting the freezer against with a dedicated circuit... and if the freezer manages enough earth leakage to trip it's RCBO... it's obviously faulty and wants disconnecting anyway.

Simon.
 
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in the 19th eddition every socket will have to be on its own radial and every room light will have its own mcircuit every other circuit will be radials with no spurring off allowed all sockets 4mm lighting 2.5mm showers 16mm and ovens ,hobs seperate circuits of 10mm with built in cookers 16mm earthing 16mm
even turning power off will require a MWC and changing a socket light evt even "like for like" will require bringing full installation up to the new regs
NO diy store to sell electrical equipment every house to have full electrical certification before getting insurance
IF the government took it this way there wouldnt be any out oif work electricians and whole salers wouldnt be closing down all over the place
 
some deserve it, their prices vary to much, watchdog should investigate them
 
in the 19th eddition every socket will have to be on its own radial and every room light will have its own mcircuit every other circuit will be radials with no spurring off allowed all sockets 4mm lighting 2.5mm showers 16mm and ovens ,hobs seperate circuits of 10mm with built in cookers 16mm earthing 16mm
even turning power off will require a MWC and changing a socket light evt even "like for like" will require bringing full installation up to the new regs
NO diy store to sell electrical equipment every house to have full electrical certification before getting insurance
IF the government took it this way there wouldnt be any out oif work electricians and whole salers wouldnt be closing down all over the place

Your living a pipe dream!!!
 

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