And a side note about using blowtorches... make sure your insurance covers you for using them. When I took out mine, I was asked about hot tools, which included blowtorches, and whether I used them. I have a heat gun for shrinking which doesn't fit the hot tool category because it doesn't use flame.

Whereas the hot works section of my insurance does include hot air guns, the only thing it does not include is a soldering iron.
 
Whereas the hot works section of my insurance does include hot air guns, the only thing it does not include is a soldering iron.

So much variation. Pays to check the fine print and ask lots of questions :)
 
Thanks for acceptance into your forum, quite a few years into retirement now and just pottering around at home. Trying to replace some old wall lights where the connectors were embedded in the plaster and the connection was just twisted wire with a plastic cap pushed on, normal 1950s practice. I found a 2017 thread on the subject on the site and the information was invaluable. Thank you I will be using the site a lot just to keep up with current practice, but I am afraid I probably wont have much to contribute, thanks gentleman you have an excellent site here.
 
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one of these with heat shrink over.
1590140190702.png
 
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Speaking of heat shrink, can anyone recommend a decent heat gun which isn't mains fed?
I use a Milwaukee one and it works fine - 18V
 
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GO ONTO TOOLSTATION. THINK THEY ARE 32a.

Pardon... . . ?

Just for info people.
 
I use a Milwaukee one and it works fine - 18V
Useful to know! I had wondered how long / how hot a battery gun would work for, as already have some 18V Milwaukee stuff, to decide if worth getting one at some point. Mostly I have used a mains powered gun from RS (donkey's years old) as generally not needed on-site.
 
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@pc1966 It works great. We no longer carry a mains one on the van. If I recall it was only about £99 as a bare unit off Amazon
 
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What size cables are you intending to crimp Mike?
 
one of these with heat shrink over.
View attachment 58308
Surprising how these have now become acceptable, when I first posted about them, there where subject to all sorts of disparaging remarks, one even that the yellow lever should have been stripped green.
[automerge]1590326642[/automerge]
What size cables are you intending to crimp Mike?

The inline crimps I have for 2.5mm are impossible to squash with a hand crimper: 2.5mm² Blue Butt Connectors - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CTBUTTslashB.html the above unit makes short work of it.

DSC01981.jpeg
 
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In a scenario of cable being drilled into for example, as a last resort the cable can't be replaced, joint can't be left above wall unit etc (Wago), I've used butt connectors & heat shrink, as you've suggested. I bought some of these, but not used them yet;
View attachment 37629

They'll be some arguing against using crimp connectors on solid cables, but I've seen that disputed on another forum.

PS Lets not have any book shelf jokes :)
Big Clive on YouTube tested these recently and as I recall was not too impressed with the results. The solder does not seem to flow into the connection too well. Think they are ok for low current applications, but that’s about all.
 
i've experimented with some of those solder connectors. the plastic melts before the solder. IMO..... RUBBISH.
 
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SJD

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Joining a cable to be buried in a wall
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