Wagos or crimp?

[1Justin]

Hi, I'm pretty new to this but a first job (and remember the nice man from NICEIC etc needs to be impressed), requires me to extend cables which will be left maintenance free beneath floorboards. - It not being possible to take them back to source.

I've read many of the posts on crimps vs Wagos and boxes. Ignoring the Wagos right now, I have just bought a ratchet tool and some (cable clamp type) choc boxes, idea being to crimp the cables with insulated butt-crimps, enclose all in box (screw cable clamp type). I also have got some self amalgamating tape on the way with the intention of perhaps (or not) going round the whole thing.

Is perhaps the S-A tape an overkill? Maybe I should embrace modernity and begin with Wagos as I mean to continue?

If I do heatshrink instead of the boxes (I have no coloured heatshrink right now -only black), I was supposing it best to offset the three joints, over shrink L&N individually then overshrink the lot (or use self amalgamating?).

What grade/dia of heatshrink is recommended for red (1.5mm), blue (2.5mm) or yellow(6mm) size crimps? And also since I need to crimp 4mm cable, is there a crimp size missing here?

 

[Rauer]

I do a fair amount of domestic and I use crimps all day!! Mainly on board changes when the cables don't reach ........... So 90% of them!

 

[PC Electrics]

Yes, I prefer crimps inside a CU. 'Looks' a lot more professional and they take up less room.

 

[robd]

On this one I need to get myself a new ratchet crimper for insulated crimps, any ideas on a good set to get?

 

[Specialist]

I bought a Draper 1 from 1 of the wholesalers about 4 years ago now & so far it's done well. City's & Edmundsons would be your best bet or Screwfix.

 

[JONOXNAM]

Just a word of caution why you should never pull energized cables around.

The crimp you can see is the line conductor - found this done by a kitchen fitter who had fitted the lady's kitchen 2 years ago to extend the ring... the opening must have originally contained a socket outlet that the guy removed and he shoved this bodge to the side, (the opening is not covered with a blanking plate) it is located under a worktop behind a dishwasher so is out of sight normally..

This was meant to be a simple job but I found almost everything the guy did of poor workmanship or none compliant, not a single grommet used, not a single back box fly lead, spurs off spurs, as you can imagine the lady never received a EIC... The not so funny thing is he told her he was giving up the install game to go and teach electrics at a college....

 

[Rauer]

That don't look to good but without sounding rough , didn't think grommits were required by regs, just good practice, and fly leads are not required if there is a fixed lug on the back box

 

[JONOXNAM]

That don't look to good but without sounding rough , didn't think grommits were required by regs, just good practice, and fly leads are not required if there is a fixed lug on the back box

Yep rough is the word, I did write poor workmanship or none compliant, none of the back boxes had lugs, I could have listed everything but it would have been a big post...

I just wanted to warn people there are non safe installations are definitely out there...

 

[Rauer]

Sorry didn't mean lug what I meant was as long as one of the wings isn't adjustable and is fixed ,as in wht you screw your 3.5mm pin into

 

[JONOXNAM]

Ah well you learn something new everyday... many thanks.

I can't remember if it was an assessor or lecturer that asked me a question many moons ago about fly leads, I said something like 'its good practice to fit them in all cases' and he replied he always wanted to see them, so I guess he is the belts and braces type, I think I'll always still fit them as personally I think it looks like a more thorough job and takes little time.

So I guess the size of the fly lead needs to be the same as the cpc size? never really thought as I always just strip a bit of the T&E I am using but could you use a bit of 1mm for the fly lead on a 1.5mm ring cpc?

 

[Rauer]

I always fit them myself mate but yeah same as the circuit cpc really

 

[Geordie Spark]

Basically that yes mate, make sure there's no wire showing outside the crimp. Use the right size crimp for the wire & use a good ratchet crimper.

Wot's rong wi' a hammer n bolster like ???? :cowboy:

 

[Specialist]

Ah a Geordie Crimper:tounge_smile: . Every time i try to do that I cut the crimp in half

 

[Geordie Spark]

Ah a Geordie Crimper:tounge_smile: . Every time i try to do that I cut the crimp in half

That's cos it takes a delicate touch.

 

[Specialist]

That's cos it takes a delicate touch.

Oi i've got a Delicate touch, just like a baby Elephants:lol:

 

[1Justin]

OK, getting this thing back on track.

I don't generally go in for cheap tools, but now and then succumb for a moment for a cheap reality check, before I realize I was right all along.

I was passing Toolstation I bought a cheapo crimp tool ("expert" ratchet crimper ahem :lol and some insulated butt connectors (blue). A load of test joints later, and I don't even need to test these. - They wobble, even with the tool wound up to max. I have my table covered in little test pieces and I just can't get a tight joint.

Maybe the bolster really would have been more effective! (So just for fun Geordie, I clouted one with a blunt bolster and guess what - it really did make a better joint!!)

Please don't say "I told you so"..Like I said, I test myself now and then with cheap stuff. Sometimes there is a pleasant surprise (but not often).

I'm going to buy a better one tomorrow, and this will go back. (But would that make me criminally negligent because someone else might just try and use it?)