Fitting an LED Spot into a loft hatch?

[thisisthecount]

I'm looking to consider asking my electrician to fit one extra LED flush-fit spot in loft hatch so it matches the rows in the ceiling to a total of 9 (3 rows of 3). He's concerned that it won't be safe and I totally get this, but is there a way to install this with some form of strong, flexible 3-core cabling or technique? Just so when we use the hatch, its not going to cause issues?

 

[littlespark]

It’s possible.

A bit of flexi conduit should protect it… but it might be in the way when climbing the ladder.

What sort of downlights are they?

Some come with a separate driver that could sit in the roof space, and extend the ELV wire to the light.

 

[thisisthecount]

It’s possible.

A bit of flexi conduit should protect it… but it might be in the way when climbing the ladder.

What sort of downlights are they?

Some come with a separate driver that could sit in the roof space, and extend the ELV wire to the light.

well when it closes, its 100% flush with the ceiling and is the exact same paint finish with minimal trim. It will line up perfectly with the middle row. Is there any safe way of doing this? They are very very slim these spots, 30mm. THey don't have drivers, just on their own and one continuous loop.

these are the spots:

https://amzn.eu/d/fPTASVO

 

[DPG]

It's not some I'd do, but it's possible as above.

Can't you arrange the downlights so that you don't need one there?

 

[thisisthecount]

It's not some I'd do, but it's possible as above.

Can't you arrange the downlights so that you don't need one there?

bit late now, all drilled out and ready.... ;-(

 

[littlespark]

If it’s the ones hanging out the ceiling, then they seem very low profile… shouldn’t be a problem even with the ladder

 

[westward10]

If those are the final connections to those lights then the block connectors need enclosing and the cpcs correctly terminating.

 

[nicebutdim]

If those are the final connections to those lights then the block connectors need enclosing and the cpcs correctly terminating.

Incredible that this needs to be related to an electrician through their customer - especially given how easily conductors slip out of those cheap push fit connectors.

 

[davesparks]

A flex from a suitable JB to the light will be fine, I'd probably fit a bit of ply or something behind the light to prevent it getting kicked when the ladder is used.

Also coming here and pretending that this is the work of an electrician is just daft, we can all see that those connections are not the work of any qualified person.

 

[Penguin]

I'm looking to consider asking my electrician to fit one extra LED flush-fit spot in loft hatch so it matches the rows in the ceiling to a total of 9 (3 rows of 3). He's concerned that it won't be safe and I totally get this, but is there a way to install this with some form of strong, flexible 3-core cabling or technique? Just so when we use the hatch, its not going to cause issues?

We’ve had the same issue..!!!!

Firstly, ensure the circuit is RCD/O protected.

Secondly, we fitted a small ‘metal’ cage enclosure over the gubbins if the D/L showing between the loft steps.

Thirdly, we installed a double pole ‘Cabinet type Sw’ that isolated that individual DL when the Loft Lid was lowered.
(This was a FIXED loft access, not a floating loft lid).

The main issue however, WAS.!!! even though the power was ISO when the hatch was deployed and the cage was protecting the installation…. It proved a hazard when using the Loft Hatch Stairs…!!!!

We fed it with SY 1.5 3c…..

We returned 2 months later, to do more work, and on the request of the client, ended up fitting LED trip to ALL loft steps under edges , BUT EITHER side of the Hazard if the DL cage unit.

They’ve been happy and problem/ incident free,!!!!

ENSURE YOU MAKE A COMMENT on your Electrical Cert, regards possible Access, due to install, and additions to over come the issue.!

 

[MJPD29]

We’ve had the same issue..!!!!

Firstly, ensure the circuit is RCD/O protected.

Secondly, we fitted a small ‘metal’ cage enclosure over the gubbins if the D/L showing between the loft steps.

Thirdly, we installed a double pole ‘Cabinet type Sw’ that isolated that individual DL when the Loft Lid was lowered.
(This was a FIXED loft access, not a floating loft lid).

The main issue however, WAS.!!! even though the power was ISO when the hatch was deployed and the cage was protecting the installation…. It proved a hazard when using the Loft Hatch Stairs…!!!!

We fed it with SY 1.5 3c…..

We returned 2 months later, to do more work, and on the request of the client, ended up fitting LED trip to ALL loft steps under edges , BUT EITHER side of the Hazard if the DL cage unit.

They’ve been happy and problem/ incident free,!!!!

ENSURE YOU MAKE A COMMENT on your Electrical Cert, regards possible Access, due to install, and additions to over come the issue.!

You fed a downlight with sy? How did you terminate it?

 

[Penguin]

You fed a downlight with sy? How did you terminate it?

 

[thisisthecount]

Thanks this is all very useful and has helped me considerably

 

[pirate]

There are quite a few hinges which transfer the power supply, so maybe use on the loft hatch.
This is just one example of many, and some are from very reputable manufacturers.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Seco-Larm-SD-H412-Vandal-resistant-Protecting-Concealing/dp/B082BJBN26

 

[thisisthecount]

that's interesting, thank you!

 

[Penguin]

You fed a downlight with sy? How did you terminate it?

Whisk / stuffers / bandgo / wago.

As the loft hatch is moveable it requires more than just T&E.

 

[MJPD29]

Whisk / stuffers / bandgo / wago.

As the loft hatch is moveable it requires more than just T&E.

I would prefer flex in a domestic environment rather than sy which requires a proper brass gland to terminate and cores need sleeved. Using flex negates the need for both of these. The braid is utterly useless in this situation also.

 

[DPG]

Whisk / stuffers / bandgo / wago.

As the loft hatch is moveable it requires more than just T&E.

Not SY though surely. HO7 or pvc flex?

 

[westward10]

Of all flexible cords that come to mind SY must be the least flexible.

 

[Penguin]

Incredible that this needs to be related to an electrician through their customer - especially given how easily conductors slip out of those cheap push fit connectors.

Hi nicebutdim,
Please don’t use CHEAP push fit connectors.!
FLEX doesn’t connect well with Push Fit connectors ( hence why we use Feral's ).
Lever operated Wago may perform better.
But Feral crimping is more acceptable.